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Ignition problems and rounded-out screws


Bitani

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So I went off to ride the other day. Great ride, great day.

Only trouble is, before I left I realized that my ignition would not turn to "Off" or "Lock." It would go to "Park" (if that's what the P with lights is), and so whenever I shut the bike off I went to that. In fact, it's in "P" right now (if I can't figure this out I'll just rip the battery until I do figure it out.)

I sprayed some WD-40 and apparently that's not good enough of a fix; nor is graphite powder that I squirted in.

The key, ever since I got it, has been a bit bent. Not extremely, but the end of it is noticeably not straight. It's always worked better when I put it in with the bent portion facing a certain direction - the other direction and it's a bit harder to turn.

Any ideas on how the hell this could happen? Something in between Off and On or something? Pushing harder gives no better effect, so I think that forcing it MIGHT be more likely to just have the key break off inside the ignition.

I are confused.

I also have 2 hex screws that are rounded-out at the top (one on the front and one on the rear caliper) that I can't for the life of me figure out a way to get out. I've tried pliers since they stick out a little bit, and that got nowhere. I'm almost tempted to buy a drill, was planning to anyways, and drill a hole in the middle of the screws. I'd rather not, though, lest I accidentally strip them.

Any ideas? Or anybody near Dayton care to let me come over and help me out? I've been able to figure everything else out up to this point on the bike, but these two littlest things suck.

Edited by Bitani
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NO help here on the ignition except to try and heat it up to bent it back straight or get a new one cut. as for the bolts a dremel to cut a slit in the top and turn out with a flat head. then replace said screws is the route id take.

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NO help here on the ignition except to try and heat it up to bent it back straight or get a new one cut. as for the bolts a dremel to cut a slit in the top and turn out with a flat head. then replace said screws is the route id take.

Darn. Was hoping a dremel wouldn't be needed. At least it's something I can re-use, I guess... Looks like I'll be spending $200 tomorrow on a dremel and drill and bits. There's no way I'd be able to hand-crank that screw with how tight it is.

I am getting a new key cut on Monday hopefully. Very much hoping that that's all that's needed, but if the key was the issue I wouldn't think I'd be able to turn the ignition at all.

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Well wd-40 & graphite powder made a mess.... graphite is a dry lubricant and will clump up and make big mess... take that wd and drown the key slot over and over and over you should be able to flush the graphite out and eventually loosen it up

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Well wd-40 & graphite powder made a mess.... graphite is a dry lubricant and will clump up and make big mess... take that wd and drown the key slot over and over and over you should be able to flush the graphite out and eventually loosen it up

Will go out and try that, simply because the graphite didn't seem to make much of a difference anyways.

I REALLY hope I don't have to take apart the barrel and that a new key will solve it. Or this drowning thing...

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The caliper bolts probably have loctite on them try a little heat .... harbor freight sells dremels for like $10 or $20

Do you have an example product online? I'm assuming it's a mechanical one, not electrical. All I can find are electrical ones that are, at lowest, $50.

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Joe's Cycle Shop on North Dixie cuts keys for any bike. They have blanks too, so all you have to do is drop off your key and pay when you pick it up.

I can and will help you with the stuck bolts. You need to bring your bike to my house though. I have all the tools for anything the bike can throw at us with the stuck bolts and an air compressor so it would be easier to do at my house. If you want to do that I live in Jamestown.

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Joe's Cycle Shop on North Dixie cuts keys for any bike. They have blanks too, so all you have to do is drop off your key and pay when you pick it up.

I can and will help you with the stuck bolts. You need to bring your bike to my house though. I have all the tools for anything the bike can throw at us with the stuck bolts and an air compressor so it would be easier to do at my house. If you want to do that I live in Jamestown.

Are you available any time soon?

Go to harbor freight site and search for rotary tool $8.99

The one for $8.99 has some bad reviews when it comes to anything past wood, but the ~$25 one has awesome reviews. That's definitely doable!

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I would try pounding a slightly bigger size Allen wrench in with a hammer first, preferably the kind that's a 3/8 Dr socket. If the bolt is metric (which I'm sure it is) find a standard one that's just a bit bigger and drive it into the bolt head, hit it with a torch for a minute, put a breaker bar on it and turn that sucker out. Better than destroying the bolt head with a dremel and hoping that you don't just rip the slot with a screw driver.

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couple things to try before you drill out the screw.

can you get around the head of it? you can use something like a bolt out.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P

basically these bite into the head, and turn the screw so you can get it out. they tear the hell out of it though, so you need to replace, but its stripped so you're gonna replace anyway.

if you cant get around the head of the screw, you could also possibly try to use a bolt extractor

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Bolt-Extractor/_/N-25qe

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