Jump to content

'91 Nighthawk 750 - worth buying?


redkow97

Recommended Posts

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/mcy/4211242738.html

 

'91 Honda nighthawk 750

 

Needs front wheel bearings, headlight, and some work done to the controls.  Guy is asking $600 and sent me pictures earlier tonight (to my phone - haven't uploaded them anywhere, but it looks clean enough)

 

worth considering as a commuter? 

 

 

I have been lurking CL for crashed sportbikes (anything from an EX250 to a katana to an F2 or 90's ZX6...), but this is in decent condition for the price, and although not as sporty as I am used to, probably fine for street use...  thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The 750 is a bullet proof bike, but a little boring by today's standards. I still have a thing for the nighthawk and Kawasaki Zypher 750...takes me back the the good old UJM days. I live in Medina if you need someone close to look before you road trip to look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the way, assume you'll need new tires, fluids and battery, which will cost you about $300-400 plus the other items he mentions, and budget for a few surprises. It's a decent price, but I'd recommend buying it for the project as much as the bike. If you're not in for the project, spend $1200-1500 for an operational, fully restored specimen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my $500 budget comes with an understanding that i'll be "hundred dollaring" the bike all winter. 

 

Youtube actually has some encouraging CB750 track videos.  I wouldn't plan on racing it, but I'd like to be able to have a bit of fun a couple times a summer. 

 

this would mostly be to tackle my 37.5 mile commute in a manner that is more fuel efficient and less dull than being on auto-pilot in my Altima. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

looks pretty competent.  BT45's come in the appropriate sizes for the rims.  I'm familiar with them, and confident in their abilities at the track.  They're not "sport" tires, but they booger up and can deal with an intermediate pace, as long as you don't forget what they are.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get it. Indestructible motor, comfy ergonomics, easy to work on...great all arounder. I think they make close to 75 hp and 50 ft of torque (don't quote me) that could easily be upped with pipes jets and filters. Might be able to find hot cams for it too if you want something you can really wring out. I'd buy it for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get it. Indestructible motor, comfy ergonomics, easy to work on...great all arounder. I think they make close to 75 hp and 50 ft of torque (don't quote me) that could easily be upped with pipes jets and filters. Might be able to find hot cams for it too if you want something you can really wring out. I'd buy it for sure.

 

did you really pull those numbers out of your ass?  I spent a fair amount of time cruising the internet last night looking into it, and everything says either 71 or 75hp, and I'm recalling 47 ft of torque.

 

This is so NOT what I was looking for, but the more I read about it, the more it will do what I want exceedingly well.  Commuting will be job 1, and I can throw saddlebags on this thing with a full briefcase in one side and my laptop bag in the other, and a gym back on the passenger seat.

 

I'm going to reply to the guy's text today to see when he's available, but if I don't want it, I'll still report back for those who may still be interested. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Twister throttle and rim bearing?  Hmmmmm....could be a great find from a dumb ass, or scam.  I think it'd be a great bike for a commuter, and for the price!

 

yeah, I was a little put-off by "twister throttle," but my hope is that he was either trying to dumb it down for the general public (this is a popular beginner bike) or that he was differentiating between the actual throttle tube and grip, and the throttle body on the carb assembly without getting wordy and making the repair sound more complicated than it is...

 

Wheel bearings are only $20, so I may as well replace those on a 20 year old motorcycle regardless of what the current owner thinks. 

 

The plan would be to replace pretty much anything rubber that I can easily source.  Fuel lines, gaskets, seals and boots, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  1. Engine, muffler components, carbs, etc. look great from the outside - this bike has been well stored
  2. Nobody sawed off the tail off, replaced the mufflers or removed the airbox - that's excellent.  The WORST thing you can do to a Nighthawk (or any CV carb'd bike) is to remove the airbox, open up the mufflers or put pods on it, without spending another few hundred on a stage 3 kit and lots of time fiddling with jet sizes
  3. What I see of the plastics, I really like.  Note that old SIDE plastics and TANKS are expensive for this bike - make sure they're in decent condition.  You can seal rust leaks and fiberglass cracking panels, but replacing them outright would be a several hundred dollar affair
  4. I believe this series of years had hydraulic lifters like my CB700S.  You'll be disappointed if you love tearing apart top-ends to do periodic tappet adjustments - this bike won't need it.  Ever.  Conversely, you can completely top-end this engine while it's in the frame with relative ease - I know from experience.  The carbs are a pain in the ass to remove and return though - the first time you do it, you'll remember colorful language you forgot you knew.  After a half-dozen times, you'll have the process down pat.  Ask me if you want pointers.
  5. On many Nighthawk models the 2nd-gear shift fork was weak.  If a rider short-shifted a lot, it would mash the fork into the gearing, wearing down the fork enough to cause false 2nds or even the inability to shift into 2nd.  This is really hard to test on a non-running bike, so you'll probably just have to ask the seller a couple times in a couple ways.  If you do run into the issue, you'll have to crack the case and replace the fork, which is easily a 40+ hour job unless you're experienced.
  6. This is a Honda.  And a Nighthawk.  And they made tons of them.  Look at eBay if you want proof of new-old-stock and aftermarket parts availability
  7. If you lived closer, I'd lend you my compression tool or even offer to go along.  I love these bikes and hope it's what it appears to be!  If you do buy it, I'll be glad to lend advice and connect in person sometime.  Also, http://nighthawk-forums.com is your friend.

Scott

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plan would be to replace pretty much anything rubber that I can easily source.  Fuel lines, gaskets, seals and boots, etc.

 

I predict you won't need to replace the carb boots unless you detect leaks - they're thick and unusually strong (I still have the originals on my '85).

 

While looking at the bike pre-buy, make sure she turns over, ideally with a battery and the starter, or use the crankshaft if necessary.  A seized engine would kill the deal for me.  If you can crank the engine and have a compression tester handy, ask the seller if you can take 15 minutes to test each cylinder and make sure their values are all in the same range.  Look for engine gasket leaks, heinously stripped hardware and anything else bubba-ized.

 

I'd propose your number 1 priority if you land the bike, would be to get the engine running.  Replace the battery, check/change the oil and filter, add clean gas with seafoam, replace the plugs, test the starter and spark and see if you can get some puffs, then go for broke and start her up.  It's cold and she'll need a lot of cranking, but puffs will tell you the carbs aren't far off, though it's very typical to have to pull them and do a pine-sol soak.  Let me know if you get to that point - I know those carbs well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you offering to sell me your 600RR for $600?

 

nah, I'm saying you probably should've kept your jalopy.  besides, i sold mine already, and it's still going strong on the track.  mine still looks better than yours, even to this day.

 

seriously though, i'm sure you could find a wrecked older i4, possibly even fuel injected for under a grand.  for example, earlier this year, there was a kid that brought his recently wrecked gsxr (I think it was an 01) to beaver and was selling it for... i forget how much. it was damn cheap though.  i thought it was about a grand, and none of the essentials were broken from what i could see. no reason you couldn't find something like that on CL or similar.  i can't see why you couldnt find an old F3 track bike/wrecker and rebuild it.  or get yourself hooked up with someone that has a deal license and get a auction bike and fix it up.  to keep the price down, you'd have to find a local auction so you save on shipping.  just a few ideas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I pulled those numbers out of my ass, but they are pretty standard for an air cooled 750 under 10:1 compression. I disagree with the statement that piping and jetting is the worst thing you can do to a cv carb bike, I've done it to plenty. It's all about doing your research online first and finding out what jet sizes work for people, then buy the jets instead of shelling out $100 for a kit full of shit you don't need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure there are thousands of amateurs out there who think they can tune a bike until they actually try to do it. doesn't make the job impossible. Probably plenty of people who gave up on a lot of things because they weren't willing to put in the time and effort to get them right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...