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Not Mine -- Seems like a decent deal on a Bandit 1200.


Ryan_c_F

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Missing the airbox but still has stock pipe...my guess is unless someone jetted it up, it runs kinda poopy. Still a great deal on a monster bike. I've heard the mk1's were easier to tune as well.

 

10 to 1 says you're right.  IF it's a year 2000 (not 200), the carbs are new for the model and have a TPS, so they may not have been rebalanced since the pods were added.  Looks like Mikuni BST36SS carbs with butterfly valves, so you wouldn't have to fight with constant velocity trickiness.  This page is amazing: http://www.portablepct.com/fastlarry/banditfaq.htm

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No tps on mk1's iirc. 2k was the last year for them, then they went to the mk2 with dual projector headlight with a different fairing, fairing mounted mirrors, slightly different frame and grab rails. Looking at the pics I don't see a tps. It's still a pain to tune a bandit with pods, and unless this was jetted up it will run for shit. Don't understand why they did that and not the can, unless it's gutted....

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A bit heavy but with some cheap upgrades to the suspenders and some creative jetting and pipes you can strangle 120 hp and 80-ish lbs of torque out of those motors. They're cammed to make peak torque at about 5k and peak hp at 9500. The motor was designed in the early 80's and has had every kink ironed out as far as reliability goes and because they put the same basic block in the gsxr 600, 750, 1100, the gsxf 600, 750, 1100 and the bandit 600 and 1200, parts are cheap and plentiful. If I didn't already have one, I'd buy one. Hands down the best all arounder suzuki ever made.

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Man I wish I had room in my garage. Might make a decent starter track bike.

 

It wouldn't be a bad cheap toy, but for the $2k asking price, there would be better track options. (assuming that's the only thing you want to use it for)

 

My F2 had aftermarket suspension, woodcraft rearsets, race bodywork, stainless brake lines, and some kind of aftermarket exhaust. Probably more stuff I'm forgetting as well.  I paid $1400 for it with a clean and clear title.

 

The 90's 600's (particularly Hondas and Kawasakis) are really pretty amazing values if you're looking to get into track riding. 

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It wouldn't be a bad cheap toy, but for the $2k asking price, there would be better track options. (assuming that's the only thing you want to use it for)

 

My F2 had aftermarket suspension, woodcraft rearsets, race bodywork, stainless brake lines, and some kind of aftermarket exhaust. Probably more stuff I'm forgetting as well.  I paid $1400 for it with a clean and clear title.

 

The 90's 600's (particularly Hondas and Kawasakis) are really pretty amazing values if you're looking to get into track riding. 

 

That's great info, thank you.  I'm thinking about it because I think it'd really improve my cornering skills on the street (plus it would be fun as hell).  Is there a site or video somewhere that might give me an idea about what sort of bikes, equipment and tracks to start with?  I've been reading around a little, but could always use more info.  Thanks man.

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Fzr 600 ' s had perfect 50-50 weight distribution and are easy as shit to work on. You can get em for 1200-2000 depending on year mileage and condition. F2 or f3 are also solid bikes but had issues with cam chain tensioners, fuel pumps and vrr depending on year. Srad gsxr600 is a great bike if you like gigantic fat ass gas tanks and reasonably comfy ergos.

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Fzr 600 ' s had perfect 50-50 weight distribution and are easy as shit to work on. You can get em for 1200-2000 depending on year mileage and condition. F2 or f3 are also solid bikes but had issues with cam chain tensioners, fuel pumps and vrr depending on year. Srad gsxr600 is a great bike if you like gigantic fat ass gas tanks and reasonably comfy ergos.

 

Gixxers do look full-chested and pregnant...

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Ask this in the WERA forum vintage section.

The 90's 600's are "vintage 7 middleweights." From a mph:dollar perspective, they are the cheapest option for sure. A first generation SV650 would be the next step up in price, and step down in top speed. But I believe lap times would be pretty comparable. The SV chassis and brakes are certainly a decade better. Suspension (stock) is about equal, which is why the SV is cheap to buy.

You should find fully set up examples of either for $1500-$2500. Especially if you are willing to drive a little to pick one up, and not picky on title status.

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