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Another way to break in


gsxkat1100
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I did a mix of factory and that on the FZ09. Within a mile of the dealer, it was on the interstate doing 3rd gear pulls up to 70 mph down to 40 mph letting the rings seat. After that, the factory manual said to not go above 6000 RPM "for extended lengths of time." So basically when I felt the need, I hammered it to redline, but just didn't hold it there. After 600 miles, all bets off.

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I don't think break in proceedures are as important as they used to be.  Modern motor manufacturing processes create extremely consistent products.  I can't remember the last time I heard of a problem being caused by improper break in.

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When you drop the oil from the first 500 mile or 600 mile service, it looks like it has fine particles of metal in it.  Even the plug that is magnetic has a bunch of crud on it.

 

That's the tranny meshing and getting broke in of sorts.  Think about this - it is new and unused when assembled.  It then is meshing together with other gears of the same metal.  They will mesh together and when done, will leave traces of metal wear in the oil and what you see when changing for the first time.

 

Now if it looks like gold and is well after the first service, that's probably a rod bearing or similar.  Ask me how I know that one.  :p

 

On the Ducati, what we found was that cold start was HARD on the bike.  That initial startup when the motor is cold and hasn't been run since the day prior or whenever.  We looked at the viscosity we were using and after the motor was opened after the first race season, we determined a different weight was needed.  However, you do not typically have the luxury of tearing a motor down and inspecting the rods, journals, etc.  So, you need to really look at the viscosity listed in the manual.  If racing, understand the advantages or potential disadvantages of oil viscosity.  We are pretty lucky with Ducati in that they provide a race set of information and wear item checklist for racing only. 

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I don't know a single auto manufacturer that lists a break in procedure or even period in the owners manuals anymore. I've been wrenching on cars at dealers for 10 years and have never seen a procedure. I've put many brand new engines in, remy engines in, transmissions... So on and so forth.

I feel like the bikes will be soon to follow. Usually, if cars do it, bikes will be soon to follow.

Saying that:

I've purchased a few new bikes. My favorite break in procedure was on my BMW s1000rr

The bike comes limited, from the factory, to 8800 rpm. You have to return to a dealer for a 600 mile service for an oil change and a PCM reflash of sorts. This will unlock the PCM and allow full 14k + rev range. BMW ensures itself in this way to help keep warranty costs down. Basically, I drove it as I wished but couldn't go past 8800.

My grom... I don't think it's possible to ride one any other way than WFO. Plus it only makes 6hp... Not exactly going to lift the head from cylinder pressures.

My Ducati hypermotard: it was in the dealer 3 times before break in was over, so yeah.

Dirt bikes: heat cycle 2 times then rip ass.

Cruiser: break in? It doesn't rev past 3k does it?

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The manual for the new Gold Wing only cautions to avoid "full throttle starts and rapid acceleration" for the 1st 300 miles.  Initial oil change at 4000 miles and then every 8000. I ignore the rapid acceleration part promptly after pick-up. My experience with every new car that I've owned is that following the break-in guidelines assures that the engine will be a dog. When I have ignore the guidelines the engine has run smooth and full power for much longer. Kind of my own empirical research.

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