imagineer Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 I probably deserve to be flamed for asking this, but someone please school me on proper choke use. My other bikes are both EFI and I’m obviously spoiled by the convenience. The '02 Bandit (my current favorite ride) however is carb’d and very cold blooded. This morning it was 51F on my 6 mile ride to work and I used ¾ to ½ choke almost the whole way.The problem is that when I’m using that much choke, the idle RPMs are over 2k. It gets a little silly sitting at a traffic light with the engine racing Can someone explain the proper way to use the choke? Also (for any Bandit riders out there), does the little idle knob on the left side of the engine come into play? What is the purpose and proper use of this knob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Idle knob turns idle up and down.Pull your carbs off, flip over and remove the brass caps over the pilot screws and set them to 3 turns out. Bandits come way too lean from factory in order to pass emissions. I would also lift the needles one notch and move up a size on the main jets.I can do all this and sync your carbs for the low low price of $250. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 As far as choke use, I give mine half choke to start it and let it idle at 2k for a minute then drop it to 1500 for a minute while I don my gear. By the time I have tunes going in my sena I can turn choke off and bike idles at 1100....but my bike is jetted way up for the k&n ovals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 You shouldn't have to choke it for more than a couple of minutes at that temp. Carbs need adjusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Hopefully just idle circuit clogged. Considering no vac leaks. You do not state if it eventually idles correctly or was work performed before problem started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagineer Posted August 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 When warmed up, it idles fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 You guys are wrong.When my bandit was stock it took ages to warm up. They're just super lean from factory. Once I got my pipe and jets in the mail and fattened everything up it would warm up right away. During the test ride before purchasing it it wouldn't idle off choke even after riding it 6 or so blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustinsn3485 Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) I'm gonna side with IP this one time. While the bandit may be inherently lean, it still should idle without use of choke.The idle knob, as stated already adjusts the idle. Do this after the bike is sufficiently warm and with the choke or fuel enrichener completely off. Most bikes should idle around 1200rpm+-.Your choke or fuel enrichener is for cold starting and should only be needed for really the first 2-3 minutes at that temp. Edited August 25, 2015 by dustinsn3485 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Wrong or right I hate all of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'm not wrong. I'll bet you a dozen donuts that they're dirty and out of sync.I can't eat donuts but I'll take the bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'm gonna side with IP this one time. While the bandit may be inherently lean, it still should idle without use of choke.The idle knob, as stated already adjusts the idle. Do this after the bike is sufficiently warm and with the choke or fuel enrichener completely off. Most bikes should idle around 1200rpm+-.Your choke or fuel enrichener is for cold starting and should only be needed for really the first 2-3 minutes at that temp.Op stated bike idles off choke when warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit12 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I agree with Crazy, when my first Bandit was stock I would start it on choke, put on my gear and ride it 3-4 miles before I could take it off choke. After a little carb tuning, jets, needles, air screws and an extra hole in the factory air box it only took a minute or so on half choke then off by the end of the driveway.My current Bandit is the same, one minute or so of half choke, if that, and I'm on my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'll settle for a beer and a burrito. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Bitchin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I'll take that bet as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 There was indeed some EPA years that bikes were super lean at idle to meet requirements. Typically to correct it, the carbs would be modified to function normally in a traditional method. Results of the manufacturers efforts varied, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a too lean condition effect choke function or start idle. It was also EPA illegal to perform most of those modifications. On the other hand, if one expects a choke circuit to function correctly, all aspects of normal carburetor function should be correct first. In addition, the traditional "all aspects of the electrical primary and secondary firing of the plugs should be correct first", before dealing with fuel delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 There was indeed some EPA years that bikes were super lean at idle to meet requirements. Typically to correct it, the carbs would be modified to function normally in a traditional method. Results of the manufacturers efforts varied, and I wouldn't be surprised to see a too lean condition effect choke function or start idle. It was also EPA illegal to perform most of those modifications.On the other hand, if one expects a choke circuit to function correctly, all aspects of normal carburetor function should be correct first. In addition, the traditional "all aspects of the electrical primary and secondary firing of the plugs should be correct first", before dealing with fuel delivery.Op reports normal operation at warmer outside temperatures and normal operation once bike is hot. That points to the choke or more specifically the fact that it's cold outside and the bike is set crazy lean (being it was the last suzuki street bike to still be carbureted that I know of) Thanks Obama! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx3vfr Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 My VFR was the exact same way. I'd sit there for ages with the choke on and if it was any less than 5 minutes with choke on, as soon as you turned it off it would just up and die. The 599 isn't as bad but sometimes I have to start it, and a few seconds later then turn the choke on. Weird that if it's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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