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Squeal coming from bike when starting, does not turn over


just_some_dude

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Buell 1125CR

1.) Recently had stator rewind and rotor upgrade. Assembled everything back together myself.
2.) Purchase new Shorai battery, lights turned on, bike turned over a couple times, then battery went completely dead. Could not get any voltage readings out of it.
3.) Contacted Shorai for warranty exchange, they sent me a brand new battery, checked with multimeter, readings were good, hooked up to the bike and this is what is happening:


Sound at 1 second is bike turning on. Sound at 5 seconds is flipping kill switch to on. Sound at 8 seconds is something near the battery area (there is a box there with start and ignition printed on it, sounds like click is coming from there). Sound at 9 seconds is when I hit yellow ignition button. Sounds like squelch is coming from that same relay box. I put my ear down toward the sprag clutch area and didn't hear anything mechanical. Sounds like it is electrical and not mechanical.

Relay Image

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Sorry, you don't have permission for that!

 

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Put a real battery in that tray and then start the bike.

I put a few batteries on it and no change. Only thing that changes is how much squeal it makes. I was putting my bike in gear and seeing if I can even get the rear wheel to budge, and it won't go anywhere. I've tried all the gears.

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I put a few batteries on it and no change. Only thing that changes is how much squeal it makes. I was putting my bike in gear and seeing if I can even get the rear wheel to budge, and it won't go anywhere. I've tried all the gears.

Has it run normally since the stator rewind?  Who did the stator/rotor work?

 

Was the procedure followed to retorque the rotor?  Getting the rotor torqued correctly is a PITA on the Helicon.

 

Since the wheel won't move...I'm guessing you have a loose rotor that has become seized or your starter is stuck.  Can you remove the starter and then see if the wheel will move?

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Someone else rewound the stator, but I assembled everything. I reached out just to make sure it was assembled same way as I marked wires (pending reply). I would be shocked if that rotor was loose. I torqued the heck out of it and pretty sure I hit the 300 ft lbs mark. If I didn't I wasn't far off. I followed the updated torque sequence. I was thinking sprag clutch could have been reversed, but I never took the bearing out and I believe there is only one way to install the rotor and sprag clutch back together. Another person suggested that there could have been some alignment issues. My plan is to open the stator cover and see if anything is bound up. Something I regrettably didn't do was oil all the parts I was putting back together. I had wiped all the oil off to keep everything clean without debris.

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300 ft lbs? That's a lot. I used to build aircraft wheels with 18 nuts that had to be torqued to 130. I'm a pretty sturdy guy and even with a 2.5 ft torque wrench it was still a workout.

Also 'pretty sure' doesn't count with torque wrenches, that's why they indicate exact torque.....unless you didn't actually use a torque wrench....in which case you fucked up.

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Yeah, it is a lot. I used a 300 ft lbs torque wrench from HF, had to extend it to get it to click. It clicked. Stator rewind guy got back to me and said "Three phases are wound the same it really wouldn't matter in what order you put them."

 

When I first started the bike with the original new battery the bike cranked. Then I just stopped. That batter took a crap, and the video above is with the brand new one.

 

This is what Shorai said about the original battery I sent back:

 

"FYI on the returned battery. The wire disconnected inside of the battery which could indicate a poor connection or possibly from excessive starting current. If the engine doesn't crank over easily with the new battery please inspect your bike for a poor ground, starter wire, worn starter or other issue that would be causing the engine demand excessive cranking current. Twins can be hard to start sometimes. If the engine hits TDC and stalls out(stops turning the engine over) release the starter button right away so it doesn't draw too much current. After releasing the starting button you can try it again a few minutes later to see if it clears TDC and starts easier. For the best starting and longest lifespan keep the battery near full charge (14.4V). If the battery resting voltage drops below 13.1V it should be charged before use. A resting voltage of 13.2-13.6V would be normal."

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Find a cover you can remove that exposes a nut you can turn the motor with. Remove both spark plugs and Carefully try that with the bike in neutral. See if you have more than 20 or so degrees of movement back and forth between where it stops before trying to shove it one way or the other. Listen for bad mechanical sounds. Or just inspect the rotor assy and see if you shit the bed there....

I'm most cases the last thing you worked on is where your problem is.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update... I can't get the cover off. It is somehow stuck on there, so it is likely mechanical. I have pulled like crazy on it. Left a heat gun on it for about 15 mins, thing didn't budge. Tapped it with rubber hammer and cloth to protect from the strikes. Bike has never been run on this gasket, so shouldn't be an issue with gasket being old and stuck.

 

So... Anyone in Columbus want to give me a rate on getting this thing off without destroying anything? It will not budge.

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I guess anything is possible at this point, but the wind looked good. One thing that comes to mind is the rotor nut that holds the rotor on. I torqued it so much there was a small part of it that was a bit sharp, like it was starting to strip. It was small and didn't think it would rub on anything. If anything it would likely break off if it did touch anything and would have been a tiny shaving of metal. The engine barely turned over the first time I tried to start it, I don't even know if it made a full revolution. Here are some of the rewind pics before install. 6a416e5559d6987a0e554b06804895da.jpg9fdafebb0a6fe44b04fe058e1d157da6.jpg8bed9cb231abc5533fd211df0050c56e.jpg36a789dee302e91895ef274f9af2d319.jpg

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Remove that internal snap ring and yank that oil plug. The bolt that holds the rotor to the crank will be exposed. Use a wrench to attempt to rock the engine forward and backward. See if she frees...

Pretty sure he can't get the stator cover off now to do that very good idea you suggested.

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He's right, I didn't think about that. I just looked it up, that snap ring holds in a metal plug that will expose the nut to turn crankshaft. Although, what would the difference be between turning that and turning the rear wheel in gear?

Edited by just_some_dude
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