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TheBrown's Kawasaki Street Fighter Build Log


TheBrown57

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Once I get it started and get some riding on it I'll be sure to send those your way! Thanks for the offer!

I got it to run!! For a couple seconds then it died lol

Kept trying and adjusting the idle since I had the idle screw all the way in so when it started it revved up pretty high.

Got it to start a couple more times but then the battery lost its charge so it's on the battery tender now. Checked all the exhaust pipes and they were all getting warm so I'm assuming all cylinders are firing too. Going to get back at it early morning!

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On 9/28/2015 at 11:51 AM, TheBrown57 said:

I can't get this quote box out of my reply section. 

If a mod could delete this post that would be greatly appreciated 

Edited by TheBrown57
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So I have managed to get it to run and idle around 2k for a short time with starting fluid sprayed in the carbs. I decided to check on the fuel filter to see if I can see any crud built up and I noticed the flow arrow was pointed in the wrong direction! I don't know if it was my friend or the owner before him but I switched that around and it was more willing to actually start but still died after a few seconds. Going to pick up a new filter on my way home today and see if that fixes the fuel problem.

Can anyone think of other things I should check?

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8 minutes ago, Tonik said:

Cut the old filter in half with a hack saw and see what is in there.  Did you drain and clean the tank?

I did drain it and filled it with fresh gas and seafoam and it's been sitting for a couple days like that. I'll cut the filter when I get home to see what's in it. It's just one of those smaller inline filters you would put on a lawnmower or something similar.

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15 minutes ago, CrazySkullCrusher said:

Check float bowls to make sure gas is filling them. If it is, your issue is the carbs themselves, namely the jets and passages.

Would I just loosen the drain screws on the bowls to see if they drip? 

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From what you are explaining, either no or slow gas flow to the carbs, or you did not clean them well.

did you remove every single jet, even the one under the blind plug?  The pilot circuit is responsible for idol, and will run the way you have explained if clogged.  If you have a steam cleaner, use it to put pressure on all the circuits and clean them out.  I have never really had good luck with the carb dip because the clogged circuits keep cleaner from entering and doing their job.

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17 minutes ago, whaler said:

From what you are explaining, either no or slow gas flow to the carbs, or you did not clean them well.

did you remove every single jet, even the one under the blind plug?  The pilot circuit is responsible for idol, and will run the way you have explained if clogged.  If you have a steam cleaner, use it to put pressure on all the circuits and clean them out.  I have never really had good luck with the carb dip because the clogged circuits keep cleaner from entering and doing their job.

I don't have a steam cleaner, I used fishing line to run through the main jet to make sure it was clear but I did not remove the pilot jet and check them. I will do that later today as well as replacing the fuel filter I picked up on my lunch break.

 

Thanks for all the help guys! Really helps me out since I haven't done this before and it's  huge learning experience for me.

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Seat before removing and count turns, clean and seat when reinstalling, then turn back out same number as counted in fist step.  DO NOT seat them hard, turn until it stops gently!

this will give a good starting point.

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If you soaked the carbs with the pilot screw in, you will also need to replace the o-rings.  The dip more than likely trashed them.  If you did not remove the enrichment plungers, they will also need replaced.  The cleaner will goo the rubber seal then turn hard when dry and the bike will run too rich.

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2 hours ago, TheBrown57 said:

Looks like I will be adding a carb rebuild kit to the list of things to buy.

Live and learn. I thought the only rubber I had to worry about was the gasket around the bowl.

If you're free one night this week and can road trip your carbs to Wilmington I'll tear them down and clean them for you. I'll even show you what little I know about cleaning carbs.

 

 

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If you're free one night this week and can road trip your carbs to Wilmington I'll tear them down and clean them for you. I'll even show you what little I know about cleaning carbs.

 

 

I will gladly take a road trip if you are willing to help me!! I'll shoot you a PM later once I have some free time to chat.

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If you've been inside a carb once or twice, no reason to get it professionally done.  Get an exploded fiche diagram of the parts and how they go together.  Keep track of the hard and 'soft' parts in separate bags for each carb.  If possible, try to NOT disassemble the carb bodies from each other and from the carb rack; you'll have a much easier time putting everything back together and syncing the linkages.  (I got this advice from an old racer/mechanic at Western Hills Honda, and I figure he knows more than me.)  A rebuild kit shouldn't be too much--maybe $25-30 each carb--unless you need to replace the diaphragms (if they're CV carbs) as these typically don't come with the rebuild kit.

Pine Sol makes a great soak for the metal parts, and try to find a small ultrasonic bath to clean the parts like the jets with very fine orifices.  Depending on how many miles are on the bike, the main jet needles may be worn from vibration--they're soft metal--and those and the main needle seat will need replacing.  The pilot jets (small ones) are more crucial to smooth running than you may think; they are critical for fueling response at lower RPMs and to throttle input up to about 1/4 throttle, so make sure they are perfectly clean.  Another fairly important tuning tip is to ensure the fuel level in the bowl is set correctly.  You'll need to bend the tang on the float than controls fuel shot-off to get this set correctly.  Fuel level in the bowl is typically set to just below the lip of the bowl, but can vary based on engine model and aftermarket tune, i.e. air box and exhaust mods.

Edited by Bubba
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1 hour ago, TheBrown57 said:

I will gladly take a road trip if you are willing to help me!! I'll shoot you a PM later once I have some free time to chat.

It's no problem. I have a soft spot for abandoned and broken bikes. I'll happily help you get the carbs cleaned up. 

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1 hour ago, Bubba said:

If you've been inside a carb once or twice, no reason to get it professionally done.  Get an exploded fiche diagram of the parts and how they go together.  Keep track of the hard and 'soft' parts in separate bags for each carb.  If possible, try to NOT disassemble the carb bodies from each other and from the carb rack; you'll have a much easier time putting everything back together and syncing the linkages.  (I got this advice from an old racer/mechanic at Western Hills Honda, and I figure he knows more than me.)  A rebuild kit shouldn't be too much--maybe $25-30 each carb--unless you need to replace the diaphragms (if they're CV carbs) as these typically don't come with the rebuild kit.

Pine Sol makes a great soak for the metal parts, and try to find a small ultrasonic bath to clean the parts like the jets with very fine orifices.  Depending on how many miles are on the bike, the main jet needles may be worn from vibration--they're soft metal--and those and the main needle seat will need replacing.  The pilot jets (small ones) are more crucial to smooth running than you may think; they are critical for fueling response at lower RPMs and to throttle input up to about 1/4 throttle, so make sure they are perfectly clean.  Another fairly important tuning tip is to ensure the fuel level in the bowl is set correctly.  You'll need to bend the tang on the float than controls fuel shot-off to get this set correctly.  Fuel level in the bowl is typically set to just below the lip of the bowl, but can vary based on engine model and aftermarket tune, i.e. air box and exhaust mods.

All of this is great advice. 

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