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Help:Rear shock preload adjusting tool


NinjaNick

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So you endorse the driver/hammer method? Brandon mentioned that I need to stiffen up my rear ALOT because it was feathering in the middle of the tire too. He said it will help my tire last a little longer too. Banging on the shock just worries me. Does it do much damage to the them?

Thanks for you input. I'm just curious about this.

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So you endorse the driver/hammer method? Brandon mentioned that I need to stiffen up my rear ALOT because it was feathering in the middle of the tire too. He said it will help my tire last a little longer too. Banging on the shock just worries me. Does it do much damage to the them?

Thanks for you input. I'm just curious about this.

Realize that too stiff causes rear wheel spin which will eat your tire more.

Feathering is usually a rebound issue - not a spring tension issue...

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Realize that too stiff causes rear wheel spin which will eat your tire more.

Feathering is usually a rebound issue - not a spring tension issue...

It's stock, so I should have lots of room to play with. I got the numbers for good sag in an email. I will have to have a buddy come over to do some mearsuring with me suited on the bike.

Thanks for info on the feathering Lizard. I will have to adjust my rebound.

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It's stock, so I should have lots of room to play with. I got the numbers for good sag in an email. I will have to have a buddy come over to do some mearsuring with me suited on the bike.

Thanks for info on the feathering Lizard. I will have to adjust my rebound.

What are the sag numbers? Too often, guys set it either too soft or too stiff.

Experiment with rebound. Go two to three clicks in one direction at a time and see what happens. Take notes so you know where you are and what you did. Otherwise, you can get upside down quick.

Watch your air pressure, as well. What tires and PSI do you run?

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Great wrench. Problem is on today's bike (sportbikes/sport tourers), it is damn near impossible to get a tool in there to adjust. Hell, even with race rear shocks and special tools, it is a bitch.

I suspect the ZX14 isn't any different. Maybe I'm wrong as I haven't looked close. Maybe it is like the Honda and has access via the bottom of the shock. If so, this tool is great. If not? Hammer and screw driver...

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What are the sag numbers? Too often, guys set it either too soft or too stiff.

What tires and PSI do you run?

Here's what I got Lizard:

Although many of us wish we weighed 150 pounds (the generic weight most manufacturers use to set stock suspensions), most of us fall to one side of that magic number, requiring a suspension adjustment to ensure that our bike handles properly. Bikes offer varying amounts of adjustability, but most at least have preload adjustment for setting laden sag (the amount the suspension compresses under rider weight) to keep the suspension in the sweet spot during normal riding. The procedure goes like this: Take a measurement with the bike's suspension at full extension (topped out), and then another measurement with you aboard in full regalia. At the front, measure along a fork leg, and at the rear measure between the axle and some convenient bit of bodywork directly above the axle line. The difference in distance from topped-out to laden (by the rider) is the sag. You're shooting for 25mm to 35mm—less for sportier handling, more for increased comfort. Sophisticated bikes also offer adjustments for rebound and/or compression damping. Check your owner's manual for how to make the changes and what the baseline settings should be. Make one change at a time and stop fiddling when the bike feels good to you.

I run Pilot Powers. My bike recomends 42front and 42 rear. I do 38/38 psi. I'm not a light fellow and It's for the street so I keep that in mind too. I do know though that I want the best out of the handling of this bike because I just love twisties and getting low.:dunno:

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Great wrench. Problem is on today's bike (sportbikes/sport tourers), it is damn near impossible to get a tool in there to adjust. Hell, even with race rear shocks and special tools, it is a bitch.

I suspect the ZX14 isn't any different...

The 14 is worse. It's crammed back there worse than any sportbike I've looked at.:nono:

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Here's what I got Lizard:

I run Pilot Powers. My bike recomends 42front and 42 rear. I do 38/38 psi. I'm not a light fellow and It's for the street so I keep that in mind too. I do know though that I want the best out of the handling of this bike because I just love twisties and getting low.:dunno:

25mm is stiff as shit. I run at the track between 30-35mm. Usually in the 32ish area...

I'd say stick closer to 30mm. And to correct your guy, they don't set spring rates and such to 150 pound riders anymore. Most sportbikes come with 1.0 springs or .95... ZX14s may differ, but considering the weight of the bike, I doubt they have anything less than that in there...

The tire PSI for the street seem fine. If they are feathering even after adjusting, you actually may have to put in more PSI. Can't imagine doing that, but more air equals lower temps and less air leads to higher temps... o, you may need to add a couple of PSI...

I'd work the suspension first. But, DON'T go with 25mm sag...

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Thanks for the tips/advice Lizard, it's much appreciated. :cool:

Oh, I got the sag information from sportrider. I will definitely go with your 30mm suggestion though. I'm freaking pumped to get this done over the weekend. :)

No problem. Also do the front end, as well. Get a zip tie and wrap the fork tube. Get two buddies to help - you need them anyways for the back. Have them lift the bike off the groud and push the zip tie up to the dust seal. GENTLY let it down and get on the bike SLOWLY and get into your ride position while one buddy holds the front by the fairing stay straight up and down.

Get off SLOWLY w/o pushing down on the front... Lift the bike off the ground and measure from the dust seal to the zip tie. Again, similar to the rear - around 30-35mm.

Don't just do the rear - do both ends...

I can maybe write a guide with a bike and pics. I'll shoot some tomorrow and Thursday when we're at the track...

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Lizard, how much of a difference in handling should I expect if I put Ohlins forks and Ohlins shock on?

Don't waste money on the forks. Buy an Insert Cartridge kit from Ohlins. They have 25mm kits that will net better results than the Street and Track forks they sell for $5k or around there...

The rear? I'd say a TTX rear is a HUGE improvement over anything else out there stock. Don't overlook Penske, though. Killer shocks and easy to maintain as opposed to Ohlins where you need special tools and such.

Overall, they will be heads and shoulders over the stock stuff. You could really do well even at the track with a ZX14 if you had those items. They simply allow the bike to work easier and better. Thus, making it easier to ride fast without as much effort on your part. Those changes would net you a pretty damn good handling machine...

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