Difference between nitrous setups?

[Bam]

We have a couple people that are comtemplating nitrous for our cars, including me.

 

I am wondering what the difference is between just your run of the mill WET nitrous kit, and a direct-port nitrous kit?

 

What's the difference in prices for the kits, or the difference in how they perform? Is one better than the other, specifically how? Performance, less engine strain? Etc etc.

 

Also, where would be some good sites to check out nitrous for sale, for 4 and 6 cylinder cars?

 

Thanks

Matt

[Crash1647545504]

Well, your ordinary wet kit, has one jet that is usually tapped infront of the TB, the nitrous-fuel mixture amount that goes into each cyl. is not even because the flow of the mixture is traveling with the vacume from each cyl.

 

Direct port, is a jet tapped in each port of your intake plenum, directly infront of each intake vlave, (sprayed directly into the cyl.) thus the same amount of nitrous-fuel mixture is delivered evenly to each cyl. These kits are usually used when running a large 100+ shot with a small motor, forged internals, rods, pistons, ext... Direct port is nice if you have a built motor and you plan to run large amounts of nitrous. Its a more safe way to deliver large amounts of nitrous. (usually with a built motor)

 

If your looking to just spray 75 shot and down, I would recomend a basic wet kit (one jet infront of the TB) it's less involved, and you will see nearly the same results as a direct port with 75 shot. (with stock motor)

 

NX kits are the best IMO. All they sell are wet kits, direct port, and basic.

[JaSSon]

There is also a massive difference in price between a standard wet kit and a direct port kit. A lot of the mustang guys have been having problems with the Noszle (sp?) direct port kit. That kit seems to cause a massing lean spike.

[Guest powers]

Originally posted by The DropTop:

There is also a massive difference in price between a standard wet kit and a direct port kit. A lot of the mustang guys have been having problems with the Noszle (sp?) direct port kit. That kit seems to cause a massing lean spike.

this is a very good reason to do a stand alone fuel system for your nitrous.

[Nate1647545505]

Wet kits are the leading causes of Z06's and Ford Cobras exploding (nitrous backfire)

 

A Dry kit does not run the risk of poor mixing in the manifold, but carries the burden of supplying proper fuel to the engine.

 

just some .02

[stolen 5.0]

i know the newer cobra problem is due to a returnless fuel system. i only had one problem with my 5.0 car. it was my fault, got the itchy finger and sprayed at too low an rpm.

 

but wet kit and NX is the way to go.

 

use a dry kit if you want to have problems. cause u'll have to get bigger injectors, diff mass air meter, possibly bigger rails. and it will be even more fun to tune

[Nate1647545505]

Originally posted by Stolen 5.0:

i know the newer cobra problem is due to a returnless fuel system. i only had one problem with my 5.0 car. it was my fault, got the itchy finger and sprayed at too low an rpm.

 

but wet kit and NX is the way to go.

 

use a dry kit if you want to have problems. cause u'll have to get bigger injectors, diff mass air meter, possibly bigger rails. and it will be even more fun to tune

Or let the Zex kit adjust the vacumn on the regulator? tongue.gif

 

What rpm did you open it up at???

[stolen 5.0]

bout 2900 i'd say. gt-40 intake. did a lil puddling

[Vulcan900]

Does anyone know how the rpm switch would work on an older car....like my camaro? I have a tac on the car now that is run off of my MSD box,

but I do know from when I dynoed that my tac was off about 4 or 5 hundred rpm.

 

I was thinking about getting nitrous for my car, after I get the tranny rebuilt and a posi unit for my ford 9inch.

 

Any suggestions for kits for carborated cars or would NX still be the kit of choice?

 

Thanks for any info

[Guest Removed]

Originally posted by GTWEEE:

[QB] Wet kits are the leading causes of Z06's and Ford Cobras exploding (nitrous backfire)

 

A Dry kit does not run the risk of poor mixing in the manifold, but carries the burden of supplying proper fuel to the engine.

 

nitrous doent backfire its the fuelthat backfires

[Guest Removed]

Originally posted by Captain Obvious:

[QB] Does anyone know how the rpm switch would work on an older car....like my camaro? I have a tac on the car now that is run off of my MSD box,

but I do know from when I dynoed that my tac was off about 4 or 5 hundred rpm.

 

I was thinking about getting nitrous for my car, after I get the tranny rebuilt and a posi unit for my ford 9inch.

 

plate kit or fogger if your going more that 300hp

the window switch works just like your tach it sees the rpm of the msd box.that how it opens and closes the nitrous circuit..its keeps from activating the system 2 soon...

[Guest powers]

Originally posted by Captain Obvious:

Does anyone know how the rpm switch would work on an older car....like my camaro? I have a tac on the car now that is run off of my MSD box,

but I do know from when I dynoed that my tac was off about 4 or 5 hundred rpm.

 

I was thinking about getting nitrous for my car, after I get the tranny rebuilt and a posi unit for my ford 9inch.

 

Any suggestions for kits for carborated cars or would NX still be the kit of choice?

 

Thanks for any info

NX would be a good choice for your application. for the carbed kits they include a fogger plate which depending on what kind of intake you are using(single or duel plane) will work pretty good.The plates distribute the nitrous pretty evenly on single plane intakes. Carbed kits are all wet and most are good for a 300rwhp shot.

 

As far as dry kits go. I would much rather puddle my intake and blow it to hell than have my motor run lean(which happens ALL THE TIME) on a dry kit and lose the entire short block.

 

Next time you are at the track ask the guy with the low et cars using nitrous what he thinks of dry kits.

[Nate1647545505]

Originally posted by BIG PAPA:

As far as dry kits go. I would much rather puddle my intake and blow it to hell than have my motor run lean(which happens ALL THE TIME) on a dry kit and lose the entire short block.

 

Next time you are at the track ask the guy with the low et cars using nitrous what he thinks of dry kits.

Just like there is a stereotype for Mustang drivers tongue.gif , there is a stereotype for nitrous.

 

I can't say that I've seen huge quantities of dry shot, but for 50-125 shot, they have worked fine in the GP community. Trick is to have the fuel there, but that requires a tune, or something like a Zex kit, which, there probably is a limit on the fuel it can channel in

 

If you're relying on the tune for fuel, yeah, I would agree that a dry shot is not the way to go, unless its a weekend warrior/drag only car.

 

just some more .02

[Guest Removed]

call anderson motorsport for dry efi kits

[yellowsnake]

get a venom. much better and the best kit out there.

[Nitrousbird]

ZEX.....this is the same company that sells a show purge nitrous kit. That's right, a nitrous kit solely meant for purging. ZEX is meant for ricers, not racers.

 

Venom: They have never clearly answered (and have actually side-stepped questions in other forums) about how they adjust a/f ratios w/ narrow band 02 sensor applications.

 

The ONLY successful big power dry kits I've heard of were those running stand alone ECM's that have specific nitrous controls in them, that bump the duty cycle up on the injectors when nitrous is being sprayed. You normal dry kit just bumps fuel pressure, which causes that much more demand on the fuel pump, and you can only go so high before the injectors become unhappy w/ the fuel pressure.

 

The biggest cause of nitrous backfires seems to be people spraying at too low of an RPM. This is why a window switch is so key.

[Nate1647545505]

Originally posted by Nitrousbird:

ZEX.....this is the same company that sells a show purge nitrous kit. That's right, a nitrous kit solely meant for purging. ZEX is meant for ricers, not racers.

 

Venom: They have never clearly answered (and have actually side-stepped questions in other forums) about how they adjust a/f ratios w/ narrow band 02 sensor applications.

 

The ONLY successful big power dry kits I've heard of were those running stand alone ECM's that have specific nitrous controls in them, that bump the duty cycle up on the injectors when nitrous is being sprayed. You normal dry kit just bumps fuel pressure, which causes that much more demand on the fuel pump, and you can only go so high before the injectors become unhappy w/ the fuel pressure.

 

The biggest cause of nitrous backfires seems to be people spraying at too low of an RPM. This is why a window switch is so key.

Joe,

 

You can easily tune a stock pcm/ecu for nitrous application by adjusting a few constants, mainly its the PE constant, but the car will run like its being sprayed all the time.

 

As far as the pressure vs flow, yeah, I'd agree. Although it wouldn't be the injector, but more likely the pump. If the injectors had problems, the FMU and FPR's out there wouldn't exsist.

 

Atleast by utulizing the stock fuel system, your IPWs show an indication where you are at with your fuel system. With running a wet shot, there is no change in anything the computer sees, and your left to wideband or your narrowband ballparking. If you do a dry shot and use the ecu/pcm for fueling, its essentially as much stress on the fuel system as a wet shot. Dry shots have a huge following with SVT 03/04 crowd, as well as the gp crowd, because of what the nitrous can do to the rotors in the superchargers.

 

So what if Zex makes a show purge? If it sells it sells, You don't get into business to loose money.

 

One of the biggest dilemas is how nitrous flows compared to air, and gas. From what I've read, it flows quite differantly, and the intake manifold becomes the discussion.