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Shouldn't be to hard at all. We do that sort of stuff alot over in 4x4 land. Some people say it takes knowledge and special tools, but most of us just put them in set the ring and pinion gap with a feeler gauge and put everything back together.

 

Evan

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i may have to change the pumpkin too, but i wanna go with a 3.73 diff or higher, and maybe someone could suggest a rearend out of a pickup truck or something, i am not against putting a ford rearend in though. but no mopar
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I'll help you out dude just cool down alittle. sorry I wasn't right here to respond as soon as you asked another question.

 

Here we go. Your car has the small GM 10 bolt in it now. At least it should. You could get any GM 2wd fullsize truck rearend and it should be the larger 8.5" 10 bolt. You could get any GM fullsize 4x4 truck rearend and it will have the even better 9" 12 bolt rearend. You could also switch to the ford 9" rearend. Don't know why people do this since its only as strong as a 8.5" GM 10 bolt anyway. Mopar doesn't have there own rearend design. They use one made by Dana corp which is used in Ford, Dodge, and GM trucks throughout the years. A Dana 44 rear end would be as good as a ford 9" or GM 10 bolt. If your going to build serious power I'd get at least a 10 bolt or dana 44. you could go with 1 ton axles like a dana 60 or GM 14 bolt, but they get heavy. Another thing to consider is axle width. If its going in a T/A you might be able to use a toyota 8" rearend. I promise you it will be as strong as a GM 12 bolt more like a 14 bolt if you get one from a v6 toyota truck. Toyotas rearend is designed as a 1 ton axle, but in american the trucks are only rated at 1/2 and 3/4 tons models for the most part. My toyota truck has a 350 Chevy engine, 34" tires and a spool in the rear end and I've never hurt the rear end. I'm a crazy donut doing tire smoking asshole too.

 

Evan

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sorry, tractor, there will be NO toyota parts going into my American (Canadian, yes, i know) car, you can type till your fingers fall off about GM outsourcing and ya da da da da but i'm gonna put in an american company's product

 

otherwise, i should go with a rear end from a 1 ton pickup or 14 bold for best strength is what i assume what you're saying? i know there will be cutting and welding involved

 

also, is this the standard throw for a 350? STROKE 3.250

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You will probably have to cut down the axle housing and get custom axles made which will add to the cost. At least if you get a 1 ton rear end you will not break the axles often if ever.

Yeah RUTAN I'm not fimilar with what types of mods you would have to do to get the axle under the car.

 

350 engines have several strokes. At least 3.

 

I understand why you want american only in it. I was only suggesting the yota axle because its as strong as the american 1 ton axles, but only weight as much as a 9" or 10 bolt.

I used to be just like that with my truck, but I came to a realization that you must use what works and is cheap to replace. Now it has a 350 chevy engine, a john deer radiator, chevy fullsize axles, and an SM465 tranny. All the stuff is pretty cheap to replace or will not break. Its got alot of other mods also that are just rigged up shit that didn't cost anything to do also. Oh course in my hobby of 4 wheeling you break something each time you go wheeling so it gets expensive.

I would never consider putting a ford 9" in anything however and would like to hear the reason its the popular axle to swap into race cars. Is it because of its third member design?

Weight vs strength?

 

Evan

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Originally posted by RUTAN TA:

Remember you have a panhard bar and a torque arm to deal with!I have a 9in. swap in mine.

yeah, i know, is the torque arm hard to deal with when putting in a different pumpkin?

 

ps....some dumbass used just silicone to seal up the rear end and it all pushed out, noticed it was out of fluid(on ground beneath car) before i drove it..... so its back under the car time

 

any ideas on making it easier to get that thick fucking gear lube in there? i'm thinking of something like a beer bong

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