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$20 to the person who can..


88lx5oh

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figure my problem out.

here is whats going on be prepared...

92 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5l

when i first got the car.. the car would start and drive.. when it got hot it would sputter and die out.. let the car cool back down.. it would drive again.. but not for a long time.. maybe 10 min.

so i pulled codes. it through a 21 and 51.. 02 and 02 stuck in lean caused by map sensor. changed map sensor... no more codes.. drove the car same thing still happens.

 

next i changed out the entire throttle body, injector, FPR, ECM, and HEP. start the car up drives fine. go down the road starts doing exactly the same thing. i pull in autozone, buy an 02 figure thats got to be it.. the last thing. replace.. try to start the car.. and no go.. it would half way start.. but really rough idle then die.. eventually wont start at all. i figure pump is bad.. cant hear it when i turn it on. so get a new pump change it.

 

start the car... after a few trys... yay it runs.. but really really rough. and wont idle.. upper RPMs runs fine.. but i have to keep on the gas for it to run. pull the plugs.. black as the night. clean them up.. throw them back in and try to start it... nothing at all. so now it wont start period. check timing, and timing belt.. check compression , check spark.. check fuel.. everythign is fine. car will not start at all. im at my wits end.

 

so what is the problem?? if someone can figure whats going on and it fixes it.. i will send you $20 in the mail.

 

here are the thigns that have been changed ill specify new or used parts next to them.

 

map sensor (new)

throttle body, injector, FPR (used)

ECM (used)

02 sensor (new)

Fuel Pump (new)

HEP (used)

 

also the coil has been tested and checked out fine

 

all vaccum lines are hooked up .. to my knowledge. looking over it there are no vaccum lines loose.. and it doesnt sound like a vaccum leak anywhere when it did run.

i ahve disconnected the battery several times to clear the ECM

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by "car gets hot" you mean normal hot or overly hot. If its overly hot then you could be screwed. If you meant normal hot then you could check to see that the cold start circuit is shutting off after warm up.

 

Evan

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Do you got fuel, air, and fire? Is this a type of car that needs a signal from the mass air flow sensor to run? Are there any more codes? You may need to get a multi meter out and have fun.

 

Evan

 

I just saw it says you got fuel and fire. codes?

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Originally posted by buckeye:

try starting and running with the coolant temp sensor unplugged and let me know

nice choice scott btw man i have your fuel rail...the car seems to have wiring issue. not sawing that it is screwed up just something electrical is screwing up.
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OK, black plugs. Means that either it's getting too much fuel, which would explain the ability to run wide open, but fall on it's face at idle.

 

First pull the codes again. If that doesn't show anything look at the air temp sensor. Reason is that if it thinks it's colder than it it is will feed more fuel when it's in open loop thinking it needs choked (carb speak). If you can find someone with an analyzer,hook it up and pay attention to the temp reading that the computer is claiming te air temp to be. Remember that it's probably NEVER going into closed loop because or the extreem rich fuel mixture.

 

Here is the thing, you need to step back, and look at what the car is telling you. Fuel delivery problems will make a car idle and not rev up. It takes LESS fuel to ge a motor to idle than to run wide open.

Blackened plugs, means either it's rich, or your burning oil. And they look wet with oil burn, and it's not a black dust that wipes off, but rather an tar like residue if it's burning oil.

Lean plugs are white, or very light.

Dying once it warms up, is alother excess fuel hint. When you fire a carbed motor, with a manual choke, you close the choke, fire the motor. As the motor starts to chug, and cough, you open the choke (leaning out the mixture) and the motor will smooth back out. As it begins to warm up more it will chug again. And then you finish opening up the choke.

 

I am guessing that you are holding the pedal to the floor to get the motor to fire up. When it fires, it chugs and coughs, then starts to spin up, and as soon as you let off it it falls on its face, and you may be smelling gas when you first fire it up before the cat con comes to temp. Also, you need to look at the cat con after a short drive, or after running *** motor for a bit. I am guessing that it's glowing, another indication of excessive fuel being burnt off in the cat con.

 

Take a look at the throttle body as someone fires up the motor, and be carefull to not get overly close as excessively rich mixtures can cause backfires through the intake tract and blow fire out the throttle body. See if it seems lik there is an excessive amount of fuel being sprayed, or if its leaking or not pulsing but rather a straight spray.

 

Just some thoughts.

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Does the car run on ether? Does it sound erratic when cranking the engine? If not, replace the pick-up assembly in the distributor, or replace the whole distributor, and the ignition coil. Sounds like weak spark to me, and either of these (assuming your cap, rotor and wires are in good shape) can cause your problem. Side note, there is no "control module" on these cars; it's all contained within the PCM.
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Guest Crazy T/A
You may want to check the CATALYTIC CONVERTER. Sounds like it may be plugged. Jack the car up and hit it, if it rattles it's bad. You can also disconnect the exhaust fron the manifold and see if it runs.
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