Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 unless I take Veritas's idea, which seems like it would be extremely hard too do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Quik7 Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Originally posted by RexSeven: I have been thinking about it today and I will probably get home, finish my car and love it the way it is. I didn't think it would cost that much. Before I even should think of something crazy like that, I need to get used to my car anyway. It definately has plenty enough power right now. I will still ask around,for the knowledge but will put it more on a thought level than a plan. It doesn't help that I am over here. Alot of my off time I read about my car.I get crazy ideas. A house would be a better idea than that expensive swap. It is rather crazy. yea, you don't need to get too crazy to enjoy these cars. 350whp is more than enough to get into trouble in one of these, and that is very do-able and very reliable...just take a ride in some of the locals when you get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Originally posted by 1Quik7: yea, you don't need to get too crazy to enjoy these cars. 350whp is more than enough to get into trouble in one of these, and that is very do-able and very reliable...just take a ride in some of the locals when you get back. I think someone around here would be happy to scare the bejesus out of you during a test flight! tongue.gif Also we have many different set-ups here locally: Ported Motor/T-78/ported manifolds Ported Motor/T-78/RE manifold/20B T-body Ported Motor/GT42R Ported Motor/GT3540 Ported Motor/stock seq. Twins Ported Motor/ported non-seq. Twins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redgsx Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 mike what turbos are on your car? are they the new gt28r? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted January 25, 2005 Report Share Posted January 25, 2005 Originally posted by U GOT FACED: mike what turbos are on your car? are they the new gt28r? Just some ported, non-seq., stock cassette, twins...for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 mike, what is the RE manifold/ 20B T-body? Is that setup better than my ported non-seq twins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 mike, what is the RE manifold/ 20B T-body? Is that setup better than my ported/ ported non-seq twins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 I want to keep the low end power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 The RE (13BRE or Cosmo) manifold has a plenum for more equal air distrubution than the stock one. Pics on this thread: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=123577&highlight=cosmo+manifold+pic The 20B T-body is larger to allow more air flow. These would only benefit you if you were flowing a massive volume of air, like Vila's (Rmagic) T-78 set-up. The ported motor/ported non-seq twins will give you the good spool (15psi by 4k rpms), best low end(ask Venomess with the modded 03 Cobra), and reasonable top end. The only single that would give you quick spool, very good low end, slightly better top end would be the insanely pricey Apexi RX-6. The next step up would be the GT35R (same as GT35/40 which DriveRight/Nocab72/Kyle has)which spools very well and has very good top end. Tony (Badog) is running the new and extremely hard to get GT40R. Good spool with MASSIVE top end. The twin GT28Rs could be the best of both worlds but there is no data on them yet, as the first prototype kits are currently being fabricated. [ 26. January 2005, 10:51 AM: Message edited by: Rotarded ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
villision1647545496 Posted January 26, 2005 Report Share Posted January 26, 2005 The 13b-re Upper and lower Manifolds are much better flowing vs. the REW's. As anything else there is pro's and con's for both. Re Manifold Has more of a surge tank, so i actually store's more air. IT also has slightly shorter runner's(meaning more top-end, loose little bit of low-end)IN a rotary that is great, we dont' have much of a bottom end as it is, so it is worth the loss imho. The problem with the re manifold is that there is many set-backs and delays with this swap. For one, you have to have custom fuel-rails made. Becuase of you slightly changing you power band and many other facts, tuning is more difficult on the bottom range. Getting it to idle "normal" will be a task at hand, then also with having shorter runners, that obviously changes the reverb pulsation, so you may want to have a decent Stand-alone so you can have great resolution. Your RPM Breakpoints may need to be changed from default to custom do to the change int he reverb pulsation. That is my two cents. Currrently I am working with another shop in a custom manifold design. It may work it may not, Only time will tell. Ty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 Might want to check this manifold out. Found it looking around. http://sdsefi.com/techinta.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 I found this 20b for sale. Remember not really a plan just a thought. Waiting till I get home. www.atkinsrotary.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redgsx Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 dont like the manifold....but that 20b looks like a good price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veritas Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 atkin's has had some problems in the past, i have acouple people I know who do rebuilds for em, but yeah i wouldn't recommend them because ive seen a few shotty jobs in the past. But you know whatever, every place will have it's ups/downs. Just check into whatever you plan on doing shop wise completely to make sure you don't get suited up with a shotty shop place. T.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Quik7 Posted January 27, 2005 Report Share Posted January 27, 2005 i really dont think you should be worried about throttle bodies and manifolds....i am running a T51 and haven't begun thinking about that crap yet.....although..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
villision1647545496 Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Steve, Maybe you should think about that, Many people do "sheet metal manifolds" on stock turbo cars. They get huge gains, just think how nasty their cars will be when the big turbo gets on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 I hate to keep changing subjects up, but it seems I Have gathered all the good rotary guys together. I have been reading, alot of help from "how to modify your Mazda Rx7", by Dave Emanuel, and Jim Downing, but it didn't give enough about the apex seal life. It gave alot about spacing for certain setups, what 's best so and so. What is the usual life on 3mm, how can you tell when they are going to go. Is there an early way. I am running VERY rich. My main concern. Kind of scares me a little bit. I was told so far detonation is the only way they really break down. Is that all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veritas Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 i've got that same book and i was wondering the same thing just never figured to ask on here. Post up some info people. T.c. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 The "myth" of the relaibility of the apex seal is predecated in the fact that too many ignorant owners buy these cars and think they can just turn the boost up without any air/fuel modification. You can make any apex seals last a long time if your support system is in place. You need a stout fuel system, a programmable ECU (no burnt chips),a good electronic boost controller, and you need to be able to monitor Boost, Intake temps, Fuel Pressure, Water temps, an EGT gauge is a good idea, and last but certainly not least you need a good tuner who wont knife-edge your A/F ratios. 3mm seals are the most sturdy, but still can break. Even if they don't break, you still can lose compression. I have pulled apart a 3mm motor that had detonated so badly, the faces of the rotors were actually dented and unsalvageable. 3mm ceramic seals are the closest to indestructable. They are $300 EACH (6 required) and, as all 3mm seals go, also require the rotors to be milled so add another $200. When a ceramic seal breaks, it will basically destroy about everything except your eccentric shaft. The other options are: 2mm, 3 piece OEM seals. RE Amemiya, the most respected engine builder in Japan, uses these exclusively on his 500HP race engines. 2mm, 2 piece OEM seals. These are a factory manufactured seal that was never originally installed at the factory. The Mazda remans had these for the last 8 years, although the recently went back to 3 peice. Rotary Aviation 2mm, 2 piece seals. This company manufactures these seals for rotary airplane engines. The "first" batch had some heat related expansion problems (low compression when hot), but have been corrected since 11/03. I personally installed the Rotary Aviation seals in my engine. These seals were designed to be used in engines that run above 9000 rpms for hours at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DanTheMan212000 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Mike,I am going to have to visit your store when I return home. I am going to do as much work on my car as possible. I have always done my own work. Yet, I know rotaries aren't just plug and play for the most part. Don't want to find out the hard way with this car. I almost blew up a 351c because I set the timing wrong. Is the apexi super afc a reliable fuel computer? I hope so. Bought it from your store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redgsx Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Originally posted by RexSeven: Is the apexi super afc a reliable fuel computer? the safc is not a new computer it is just a piggy back. get the apexi power fc.alittle expensive though mike, what apex seals do u use on the rotarys u build at the shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redgsx Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 link ... http://www.rx7store.net/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=621 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Quik7 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 yes...the PowerFC is about the only 'computer' you will ever need, until you start running with the big dogs, then maybe a Haltech(but that is debatable)i am still running a PFC, it is totally worth the money, it does everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veritas Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 i kinda like the idea of the power FC there, as mike knows my aims are around 350 hp to the wheels, and i was going to end up going up to the haltech to do that but is the power FC able to just litterally be a plug in to where the stock ECU is and just a matter of tuning from that point on? (silly side question with those standalones can you still run other things like a stereo and what not with the car then or does that become debunked afterwards?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotarded1647545491 Posted January 29, 2005 Report Share Posted January 29, 2005 Originally posted by 1Quik7: yes...the PowerFC is about the only 'computer' you will ever need, until you start running with the big dogs, then maybe a Haltech(but that is debatable)i am still running a PFC, it is totally worth the money, it does everything. This man speaks the truth. The computer interfaces with all the OEM systems. The only "bug" in the PowerFC is that a small % of people have some A/C control function issues. These are correctable with some simple wiring. The RX7Store uses whatever the apex seals customer wants. Mostly 2mm 2 piece OEM or the Rotary Aviation seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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