T Rex Posted April 29, 2003 Report Share Posted April 29, 2003 that knows about fuel tuning. Somewhere in the next year or so , I will be putting on a Kirban adjustable fuel regulator after a 255lph fuel pump. Ive heard the BEST way to tune your fuel is on a dyno with a wideband. A lot of people say that you need to get a pressure reading BEFORE you take out your old pressure regulator. Seeing as I am trying to build this car, almost from the ground up, I probably wont have the old regulator in there. Is this a bad idea? I will probably be using the stock 36# injectors, I think that should be enough fuel delivery. Any thoughts are appreciated. Edit: For those who havent heard me blabber on about this, it is a 2.3l Turbo Ford engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renner Posted April 29, 2003 Report Share Posted April 29, 2003 I don't think you should have much to worry about in terms of matching the exact fuel pressure you had with the stock regulator. Not 100% sure about the older ford motors, but most of the turbo cars I am used to working around at least, usually run around 47 psi base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected, on a regular 1:1 rate regulator. So with the car at idle, and the vacuum line hooked up, your rail pressure would drop maybe 10 psi below that, depending on your car of course. If you are going to be doing some fuel tuning anyway, you can just adjust the injector pulse width to get things where you want them. Basically, A 3 psi difference in the rail pressure is not going to make the difference as to whether or not the car starts and runs ok. Unless one of our local ford gurus speak up, I would say that 45 psi, for a no vacuum base pressure at idle is a pretty safe starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted April 30, 2003 Report Share Posted April 30, 2003 Originally posted by Renner: I don't think you should have much to worry about in terms of matching the exact fuel pressure you had with the stock regulator. Not 100% sure about the older ford motors, but most of the turbo cars I am used to working around at least, usually run around 47 psi base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected, on a regular 1:1 rate regulator. So with the car at idle, and the vacuum line hooked up, your rail pressure would drop maybe 10 psi below that, depending on your car of course. If you are going to be doing some fuel tuning anyway, you can just adjust the injector pulse width to get things where you want them. Basically, A 3 psi difference in the rail pressure is not going to make the difference as to whether or not the car starts and runs ok. Unless one of our local ford gurus speak up, I would say that 45 psi, for a no vacuum base pressure at idle is a pretty safe starting point. You are correct sir. There is no need to know stock pressure (its ~42 on 2.3T cars) . If you will be converting the car to MAF (which I assume you will if you plan on making any power at all) you will be able to control the fuel with something like a tweecer or a eec tuner via the MAF curve, and global fuel adders (which just adjust the injector pulse width based on MAF readings) If you are NOT going to be converting to MAF then there is no point to have that fuel pressure regulator because the cars power output potential is going to be limited by the vain meter, not by the amount of fuel the engine gets. In all honesty to get a ford 2.3T to put out even 300rwhp, you need to convert to MAF. What kind of car is this in? Is it in a t-bird? or is it an engine swap into a different car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Rex Posted April 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2003 My first idea was to put it into a 1st Gen Rx-7. I dont believe a shad tree mechanic, with the skills (lack of skills I should say), can pull this off the way that I invision. I think I have a deal lined up for an xr4ti, which would be A LOT easier to swap this into. As far as switching to MAF, are you talking about the LA3 computer with the large vain meter? That is generally the only conversion done to the computer, besides a stand alone SDS. Thanks for the advice keep it coming! tongue.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted April 30, 2003 Report Share Posted April 30, 2003 Several people have done MAF conversions on the car, I'm not sure on the specifics (as to what computer was used) but I'm fairly sure it was a 'kit' sold by pro-m. If you are going to put the engine in something, use a merkur wiring harness, it makes the install VERY easy. Trying to make a Xr4TI reliably fast on the otherhand is NOT so easy. Put it in a ford fairmont or fox body mustang. Cheap, light, and fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Rex Posted May 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2003 Why not an xr? I havent done much research but stock they weigh around 2900lbs. Which isnt bad, thats FULLY loaded as well, remove all that bs and Im sure you can get it down to around 2500. IE leather seats, rear seats, Im sure there is a lot of noise padding as well. If Im correct the xr has IRS? I like that idea, im not going for a balls out 1/4 car, I would like to run low 13's but Im looking for a VERY streetable car, since thats where I drive it the most. Moving to a foxbody, Im a little shaky about that. I want something diffrent, granted diffrent comes with a price whether that be time or money, I think im willing to sacrifice (our love). I found a good deal on an 84 Foxbody, but its carb'd, Going from carb'd to EFI is a pain in the ass, however I will be doing a completle swap of the fuel system anyway. IE: fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail etc. My two favorite choices right now are the xr or a Pinto, the XR all I have to do is go pick it up. The Pinto I have to dig for, but I think a Pinto would be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rl Posted May 2, 2003 Report Share Posted May 2, 2003 Originally posted by TRexPro5: Why not an xr? I havent done much research but stock they weigh around 2900lbs. Which isnt bad, thats FULLY loaded as well, remove all that bs and Im sure you can get it down to around 2500. IE leather seats, rear seats, Im sure there is a lot of noise padding as well. If Im correct the xr has IRS? I like that idea, im not going for a balls out 1/4 car, I would like to run low 13's but Im looking for a VERY streetable car, since thats where I drive it the most. Moving to a foxbody, Im a little shaky about that. I want something diffrent, granted diffrent comes with a price whether that be time or money, I think im willing to sacrifice (our love). I found a good deal on an 84 Foxbody, but its carb'd, Going from carb'd to EFI is a pain in the ass, however I will be doing a completle swap of the fuel system anyway. IE: fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail etc. My two favorite choices right now are the xr or a Pinto, the XR all I have to do is go pick it up. The Pinto I have to dig for, but I think a Pinto would be worth it. Low 13's with that IRS will be tough. It is weaker than erics driving skills. Do the pinto....ultimate sleeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Rex Posted May 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2003 Originally posted by rl: Low 13's with that IRS will be tough. It is weaker than erics driving skills. Do the pinto....ultimate sleeper. Now the key is to find a Pinto in decent shape ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
recklessOP Posted May 3, 2003 Report Share Posted May 3, 2003 run a solid axle. for one, they tend to be cheaper. a "properly" modified solid axle car should also out handle about any factory IRS car, and hold a good amount of power. good solid axle suspensions also have an advantage in putting down power and launching compared to IRS setups. on smooth roads the solid axle should actually be at an advantage, but then again, we live in ohio... do a fox mustang. parts are cheap and they're easy to fix. you can also get the base models pretty light. not to mention, your engine should drop right in with the correct engine cradle... graemlins/bubbrubb.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ranger_Man Posted May 3, 2003 Report Share Posted May 3, 2003 put it in a mustang and be done wiff it! graemlins/bubbrubb.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty2Hotty Posted May 4, 2003 Report Share Posted May 4, 2003 Pinto on an 8.8 would work perfect. I've got an article on a 2.3 Turbo pinto I think in one of my old Hot Rod magazines, I'll go searching. smile.gif Good luck Tony, lemme know if you need a hand, or beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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