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GTP won't start


99ta

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ok the car won't start. Turns over just fine but will not fire up. I am thinking its the fuel pump, bc I don't here it come on. How do I check it? and if its bad, how do I change it. any thing else I can check. I have check all fuses and they are fine. Is there a fuse back by the pump?

 

Eric

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check it with by pushing the shrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you get fuel, you might have some pressure still so bleed it all off and cycle the key. you can also have someone try to start the car while you bang the tank with a 2x4 and it may or may not start. you can replace it by taking the fuel pump acess plate off, its under the carpet in the trunk. would you like frys with that?
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Eric, Check the FP fuse/relays. Its in the under hood junction box, two relays - mid center, next to the FP 15 amp fuel pump fuse.

 

The back of the cover should have an index of the fuses/relays.

 

yeah I have checked all those.......is there a way to know if the relays are bad? I have done the fuel resistor thingy.....

 

Eric

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yeah I have checked all those.......is there a way to know if the relays are bad? I have done the fuel resistor thingy.....

 

Eric

 

Have someone listen to it "click" or hotwire it. Pull the FP Relay (#14 I think - its the relay next to the FP Speed relay (the one you bend the prong out).

 

You want to get some wire, strip the ends, and jumper #3 to #5 positions. Turn the FP Relay on it's plug in side and you'll see what positions relate to #. It should be catty-corner. You may have to fiddle with the wires inside the fuse box slots for it to make a clean connection and kick on the pump.

 

FYI: This is how we drain our tanks if one were to desire race gas at the track. :cool:

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Have someone listen to it "click" or hotwire it. Pull the FP Relay (#14 I think - its the relay next to the FP Speed relay (the one you bend the prong out).

 

You want to get some wire, strip the ends, and jumper #3 to #5 positions. Turn the FP Relay on it's plug in side and you'll see what positions relate to #. It should be catty-corner. You may have to fiddle with the wires inside the fuse box slots for it to make a clean connection and kick on the pump.

 

FYI: This is how we drain our tanks if one were to desire race gas at the track. :cool:[/QUOte]

 

so run a wire from 3-5 and plug it back in? should the pump run all the time or just prime for the 2 seconds the key is on after I do this?

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so run a wire from 3-5 and plug it back in? should the pump run all the time or just prime for the 2 seconds the key is on after I do this?

 

You just need to strip and insert the wire in the #3 and #5 positions. This will "hotwire" the connection between the Battery->15A Fuse->Pump. The car normally energizes the relay which connects #3-#5 to engage the pump.

 

It will run as long as the wire is connecting #3 and #5, the car should be in the IGN state (right before you turn the key to start cranking)

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altho, i have seen the fuel pump controllers on those go bad.

 

under light load, gm only send 8 volts back to the pump .

 

under heavyer load conditions, they send the full 13 back. its how they controll the returnless system.(they say its easyer on the pump)not sure on the 00, but the 03 i fixxed a few weeks ago had a new pump already in it, a different shop did that. after they figured there was no power going back.

 

edit :it was a 03 not 01

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altho, i have seen the fuel pump controllers on those go bad.

 

under light load, gm only send 8 volts back to the pump .

 

under heavyer load conditions, they send the full 13 back. its how they controll the returnless system.(they say its easyer on the pump)not sure on the 00, but the 01 i fixxed a few weeks ago had a new pump already in it, a different shop did that. after they figured there was no power going back.

 

97-03 are return style. 04 is when return-less started.

 

We have a relay (Eric mentioned earlier bending the tab out on it) wired to a resistor to limit the pumps [speed] voltage for sound / longevity. If the ballast resistor goes bad, the car will crank on high speed, establish > 400RPM condition, and die as soon as it switches to low speed [via ballast resistor] mode.

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You just need to strip and insert the wire in the #3 and #5 positions. This will "hotwire" the connection between the Battery->15A Fuse->Pump. The car normally energizes the relay which connects #3-#5 to engage the pump.

 

It will run as long as the wire is connecting #3 and #5, the car should be in the IGN state (right before you turn the key to start cranking)

 

 

ok forgive my ignorance.......so I take the relay out and don't use it? then stick the wire in the holes on the fuse box?

 

and rob whats this controller your talking about?

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Exactly, the wire replaces the relay.

 

Rob smokes his breakfeast, we don't have any controllers. :)

 

lol...ok. I will try this when i get home. will this tell me if its the relay? You available to take a phone call this evening? I might be calling you.

 

Eric

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lol...ok. I will try this when i get home. will this tell me if its the relay? You available to take a phone call this evening? I might be calling you.

 

Eric

 

Always available to help the poor souls who are graced to have a 3800 powered vehicle :D

 

Tell your brother I have a race for him (is he in the 115-120 MPH range yet?)

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Always available to help the poor souls who are graced to have a 3800 powered vehicle :D

 

Tell your brother I have a race for him (is he in the 115-120 MPH range yet?)

 

 

cool.....have no clue where he is. I know he put about 4-5 cars on a guy that traps 118 from a 40. who or what is this race?

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:eek:

 

Nevermind.............

 

Friend of mine, Turbo Grand Prix. We're hoping to get 120mph traps on pump gas. Just need a bench mark. :)

 

 

lol...well, that was on the street. Cory thinks he would trap 120ish. But that hasn't been proven.

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Exactly, the wire replaces the relay.

 

Rob smokes his breakfeast, we don't have any controllers. :)

care too put some money on that?

 

whats the 8th digit of the vin #?

heres the diagram for the vin 1 super charged 3.8

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/100_1118.jpg

 

in the middle, to the left side. fuel pump control module.

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care too put some money on that?

 

whats the 8th digit of the vin #?

heres the diagram for the vin 1 super charged 3.8

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/100_1118.jpg

 

in the middle, to the left side. fuel pump control module.

 

As stated above, that is an 04+ RETURNLESS SYSTEM. Eric's car is a return style, where the pump is driven by voltage - not PWM.

 

Here is the diagram for 97-03 RETURN STYLE straight from GM SI:

 

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/DEATHbyPSI/untitled.jpg

 

As far as taking your money, I'm content with my own. :cool:

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As stated above, that is an 04+ RETURNLESS SYSTEM. Eric's car is a return style, where the pump is driven by voltage - not PWM.

 

Here is the diagram for 97-03 RETURN STYLE straight from GM SI:

 

http://www.imagecoast.com/images/DEATHbyPSI/untitled.jpg

 

As far as taking your money, I'm content with my own. :cool:

 

 

well lets take a look inside that underhood fuse box

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/100_1121.jpgand yet, has the same pins in it you just told him too jumper.which is what you do if you want to watch it on a scope. ;)

 

2 speed pump. 8 volts on low speed. full voltage on high.

 

funny your diagram doesnt even show enigne size, year, make or model.

 

btw, this is the update for that diagram. this system can be found on return style systems. the 04 and up is PWM. my dumb ass posted the wrong diagram . :asshole:

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