natedogg624 Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 (edited) so this winter will really be my huge project. doing a thorough cleaning of the bike and doing a transmission swap to fix my second gear hiccup. anyways these are just some pictures along the way, i will be updating this throughout my project. this is about 2 hours into it:this is my closet that i have to work with... this is probably where i will be keeping my engine when i drop it out of the frame as it is heated.gas tank and rear are pulled, subframe seat and exhaust... those little baggies on that cage is every bolt i have pulled off so far. i either have put it back on after i remove it or put it in a baggy and label it to keep organizedheader, front tire, and forksits really just an engine... we are sitting on an engine and two wheels...crazyat first i had a simple milk crate holding the bike up under the oil pan along with the front stand but it wasn't strong enough and was leaning a bit to one side... improvised and am now using the rear stand under the base of the footpegs. its just a quick fix for now i need to either take out the engine to take the load off or get some jack stands. removing the swingarm tomorrow hopefully. draining the coolant out and dropping the engine either by end of this weekend or next week. Edited November 18, 2008 by natedogg624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted November 18, 2008 Report Share Posted November 18, 2008 Damn, Nate. Looks like you bit off a big project. Excellent time to clean all of those nooks and crannies you cant normally get to. Good luck and keep the pics coming as you progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 tried taking out the swingarm today. got the bolt off and the axle out but there is a pivot adjuster that i need to take out as well...i dont want to buy a tool i would use once. anyone know of a way to make one? or know what im talking about for that matter...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 (edited) FRAME SPANNER SOCKET 90890-01471 or YM-01471This website shows the basics of making one from a reasonably hard socket that fits down in there. It's for a Dana 44 ball joint, not a Yamaha, but the concept is the same. You'll need a socket that fits inside the bore, hacksaw, file, and grinder, and lots of work.http://gastiresoil.blogsome.com/2006/03/You really should buy the tool (or make one). The tool you need might be found for 36-46 bucks? It would save a lot of time getting the right tool. The pivot shaft adjust bolt goes back in only finger tight. That makes me wonder if it's only finger tight right now, and might come out easier than you think.I'd probably try something dumb like get two hard steel rods, clamp them together with two vise-grips, and try to turn it out. Making a wood handle to hold them would be fun to try also. Then make or buy the tool when it didn't work.Edit: Ok, I've seen mechanics whack these spanner nuts with a hammer and a drift or small chisel to get them off. And yeah, I've done it, but it hacks up the special nut and you'll want to buy a new one. And I think this axle adjuster nut is too far down in there to get at, but it might respond to some gentle tapping to loosen it, and then turn it out with a screwdriver. Oh, wait... do you have a very large screwdriver that would fit down in there? Or a flat piece of steel plate that could be turned with visegrips. Edited November 19, 2008 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjachk08 Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 damn thats crazy looking at a bike all apart.. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 (edited) ^^i could try something simple like the two rod method. ill try harder after thursday. i didn't really dink around too much tonight just got that point and tried for a bit and stopped since i had too much other stuff to do tonight. my question is i don't even know what its for... i got the nut off and the "axle" out just fine. this is the only thing holding the swingarm on right now... it may have been finger tight when first put on, but im pretty sure it hasn't been off for at least a good 5 years... Edited November 19, 2008 by natedogg624 added an extra^ cuz ninjachk stealth posted on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 ^^i could try something simple like the two rod method. ill try harder after thursday. i didn't really dink around too much tonight just got that point and tried for a bit and stopped since i had too much other stuff to do tonight. my question is i don't even know what its for... i got the nut off and the "axle" out just fine. this is the only thing holding the swingarm on right now... it may have been finger tight when first put on, but im pretty sure it hasn't been off for at least a good 5 years...Dude, I thought you had a factory service manual. If you don't, stop and go buy one. Now. It has the torque specs and such you need. They aren't finger tight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 yea i got one. and your right 95Nm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 ok so maybe not the best idea but i was bored and just yanked on the swingarm a few times and it budged loose.checked the adjuster bolt and bearings all look ok, nothing damaged in the process...now its just going to be a bitch to get back on. i think by the time i need to put it back on i will have myself a dremel and will be able to make my own tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) this is where im at now:that frame is really light. i was actually surprised. (please excuse my roomates "GTRDUN" license plate...)swingarm is off too.this is just a temporary holding place, as you can see im pretty sure this milk crate isn't going to last long...radiator chilling, heh get it...chillin... ok that was lame.well big thanks to chris (tomcat) for helping me out with this project today, as well as all of you that posted in my threads answering and giving advice. as you can see basically everything is removed, obviously. next step is to build a crate out of 2x4s for the engine, take pieces to the car wash and pressure spray them down (example the bottom part of the frame where the black stuff is on the left side, all gunk that can srape off...)anyways this is where im at, just a little update along the way. if anyone thinks this is really hard, its not actually at all just a lot of patience and a buddy. but i've been studying both the haynes and factory service manual for a while now. (be careful though as i found out, they could give different directions) Edited November 22, 2008 by natedogg624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 Try some engine degreaser on that chain lube residue. It'll gtrdun. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 (edited) well this may be the last post for a while on this thread. mostly just cleaned up the garage so i didn't have the frame and stands sitting right in front of our garage door. getting ready for thanksgiving break, finals at OSU, and a long christmas break where i won't be at my apartment. the next post of progress will probably be in mid january... of course i will still post here if i have any questions along the way.my basket of electronics, hoses, and misc bolts and ties:fixed the way the engine was sitting, more level with less stress on the left side. this should last til after thanksgiving break when i can bring back a sturdier engine crate out of 2x4's.all cleaned up and out of the way.also plugged up the openings, such as engine inlets, exhaust, carb fuel and air in/outlets, as well as the airbox. dont want any bugs getting in there while im gone. Edited November 25, 2008 by natedogg624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 time for a little update:my workbench that 1fasttc (john) so graciously donated! much much appreciated! (the helmet is not mine, but my roomates...)box of covers, staying as organized as i possibly can with ziploc baggies with detailed labeling (this is more full now, i just haven't taken a picture yet)stator timing and clutch exposed.see what i have to work with? gross.exhaust ports (if anything looks suspicious let me know)clutch boss removed.input shaft -- trying to figure out how to get that bearing out (two holed thing around the shaft)oil pan off -- oil strainer a little dirty but other than that everything looks fairly cleananother update: sent the supsension off with EarAche (Eric--again much thanks to him!) to reuben at 35 motorsports after finally nailing down what i wanted to do within my budget. Installing new .9 springs with an OEM revalve, as well as a refresh and recharge in the back (no spring needed). Ill get it back as soon as Eric decides when he wants to come see us again in Cbus...questions:any ideas how to clean all that crap off? i have a brass wired brush but i dont think that will hold up for the whole thing. I tried a dremel with different attachements but that only gave me a "brushed polished" look, so i stopped that idea.how do i get off the bearing on the input shaftand the exhaust ports, look ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 exhaust ports look typical, just a lot of carbon.and try some engine degreaser (on the outside of the block) let it sit for a bit, scrub maybe? spray off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 too much carbon or normal for a bike with 30k?what about covering up the exhaust ports while cleaning to prevent water getting in, stuff with the blue paper towels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 too much carbon or normal for a bike with 30k?what about covering up the exhaust ports while cleaning to prevent water getting in, stuff with the blue paper towels?stuff and maybe tape over? you don't want water in your engine, at all.and i don't know, i'm new to bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 oil pan off, along with oiling internals taken out, strainer/pump/pump chain/relief valvenew 05 output shaft w/ gears on top, and input shaft on bottom.shift shaft rod cleaning. before on the right, after on the leftsplit the cases!output shaft removedselector drum, and forks removedcheck out those scrape marks on the output shaft shifter forks...weirdalas the source of my problem. my gremlin. if you can't tell, the rounded part is not supposed to be rounded like that. its like this on all three.the dog holes where the above dogs mesh with. you can see where it slips in and out, even the holes are rounded a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 9, 2009 Report Share Posted January 9, 2009 ..why did you take your mains off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 main what? which pic are you referring too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 main caps/bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 i didn't.they are still on. bearings are under the caps. as per the manual there is nothing that goes where you circled, just the mating between the two cases.but way to scare me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kip Drordy Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 i didn't.they are still on. bearings are under the caps. as per the manual there is nothing that goes where you circled, just the mating between the two cases.but way to scare me though.Those are your rod end caps, not your main bearing cap. The main bearing caps hold on your crankshaft, not your pistons. But, I guess the lower case works as the cap also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Those are your rod end caps, not your main bearing cap. The main bearing caps hold on your crankshaft, not your pistons. But, I guess the lower case works as the cap also.i didn't say those were mains, that's his picture.and yes, those are your rod caps, don't touch those. keep them clean and oily.also, i hope you have a repair manual with torque patterns, yields, and specs.and a good torque wrench. probably 3/8th's, and an inch pound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 (edited) i've got both the haynes and factory service manual as a guide. i have the tightening sequence as well as all specs along with a good torque wrench for the smaller torque specs. i am well prepared for this project.as for my "circle" picture, i was just circling the only place there are bearings listed in the manual and on the parts fiche. i do have "big end" bearings under the rod end caps. so there are no bearings in the place brennan circled at all. i believe campus racer is correct in that the lower is used as the cap.but if you want to prove me wrong please do so i wont be offended, this is a learning process for me as well. edit: did some looking around, they aren't "main's" but rather journal bearings, so thats where the confusion was, my bad. the journals are right where they are supposed to be, within the casing slots they are assigned. they are two halves that separate when you split the cases which is why you don't see them in any of the pictures, and they are all there (in the lower at least, i can only assume they're in the upper as well)all is well! thanks for making me check that though. Edited January 10, 2009 by natedogg624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brennan Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 different terms for a bike a guess?oh well.good luck! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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