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$500 - 1987 Toyota MR2


Rally Pat

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I created this just to sort of reset my cluttered thread. I just want to get rid of it now. First $500 takes it. It runs on all four cyl's again, but the water pump blew again, and there is a clog in the coolant system somewhere. I really need to get rid of it, I owe some money.

 

1987 Toyota MR2 NA

177,xxx

 

.:The Good:.

Shortened intake (Cone filter and AFM)

Suspension Techniques Adjustable Front Sway Bar

Twos-R-Us Reinforced Sway bar end links

Speed Source Brake Master Cyl Brace (Front firewall flexes without it)

New Alternator installed when I bought the car

MSD Blaster 2 Coil

Bosch Iridium +4 spark plugs

New Brakes all around, NAPA rotors (MR2 Owners Club recommends them)

front pads: Porterfield Carbon/Kevlar Autocross Pads

rear pads: Duralast Auto Zone pads

New water pump, put in about a month ago or so

New Thermostat, done at the same time as the water pump

Coolant flush also done with the above

Oil changed 2 weeks ago, Royal Purple 10W-30

Tranny Filled with Penzoil Synchromesh

4 Yokohama AVS ES 100 Tires, purchased between the First and Second Autocross events this year, I ran one event on them.

 

.:The Bad:.

There is a lot of rust on the body, around the usual places Toyotas get rust (rear wheels, corners, places like that). The last guy that owned it tried his hand at body work and did a horrid job. There are some spots that were bondo'ed at one point, and just broke off.

 

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/Drive...7/target77.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/Drive...7/target79.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/PE12007w/target81.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/PE12007w/target82.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/May%2.../target400.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/May%2.../target401.html

http://richard.safier.com/OVR/May%2.../target402.html

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I just did a coolant flush on it today. After the flush we opened the bleeder screw near the thermostat and more brown coolant came out. This is after flushing the system like 10 times. We work at a shop and have the vacuum coolant flush machine. We will try and do a compression test tomorrow. (Monday)

 

And yes it needs a H20 pump

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So it needs a coolant flush and a new water pump to be driveable of any longer distance driving?

 

Coolant flush wont fix it, unless you are flushing with a fire hose. I dont see any reason to do a compression test at this point.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Is it currently capable of being driven even just a short distance without overheating?

 

Yes. At least once a week I take it out on a small drive. There is a clog somewhere, most likey the radiator, but it can be driven. I just wouldnt recommend driving it too far too long. In general, if you dont push it and left the engine cover open, it probobly wouldnt overheat. As soon as you hit TVIS (4400 RPM), and higher, you might want to worry about heat. Because of the clog, the tempurature wont read correctly on the temp guage. It reads normal operating tempurature, when it fact it is boiling off the coolant.

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