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I almost drowned riding waves that were 20-25 foot face at a place called Waimea bay. Some of the waves at Jaws have had 80+foot faces, with is just ridiculous. You cant appreciate how dangerous that is-unless you get crushed by some 30 footers like me, or actually crunch the numbers and see how heavy that much water is, and how much force is behind it.

 

Funny thing about Jaws-is that its only up every so often, when conditions are right. Most days the water is dead flat. Last time I was down there I checked it out, and people were fucking snorkling it was so flat!

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I almost drowned riding waves that were 20-25 foot face at a place called Waimea bay. Some of the waves at Jaws have had 80+foot faces, with is just ridiculous. You cant appreciate how dangerous that is-unless you get crushed by some 30 footers like me, or actually crunch the numbers and see how heavy that much water is, and how much force is behind it.

 

Funny thing about Jaws-is that its only up every so often, when conditions are right. Most days the water is dead flat. Last time I was down there I checked it out, and people were fucking snorkling it was so flat!

I got hammered at Makapu with 8 footers, I thought I was going to drown. Those guys are crazy!

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You cant appreciate how dangerous that is-unless you get crushed by some 30 footers like me,

Fuck 30 feet, I got taken down and rolled across a 3' deep sand bar by a 3some of 6 footers on fresh water. The first on took me down and the rest kept me rolling so that I couldn't get up. I finnaly broke the surface in about a fott and a half of water on the sand bar, I was rolled about 50 feet.

 

Last time I was down there I checked it out, and people were fucking snorkling it was so flat!

Cuz it's a reef. :cool: There's some cool wave modeling data out there that goes over how the waves push up.

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