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Need some T6 alum plate!


fireman_343

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this is where I used to buy from

http://www.alro.com/SECLocations/locations_cb.cfm

There is a huge price difference between different aluminum alloys, make sure you buy what you need.

Each alloy has different characteristics some are easier to machine some are stronger, and some anodize easier ect.

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Not local, but www.onlinemetals.com is where I get most of my plate from. Cheaper than most and no charge for cutting to the size you want.

T6 refers to temper - not aluminum grade, so there's really no such thing as "T6 aluminum". Get Type 6061 in a T6 temper - machines decently, cheap, strong and doesn't corrode as much as some others. If you need superior strength, try type 7075.

24" X 24" in 6061 will run ya $130, type 7075 is $200

Both are readily available although the 7075 will cost a tad more.

Edited by Earache
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ummm, -T6 is a temper, i.e. heat-treatment or age hardening. -T6 temper is a proper one for mechanical usage on a vehicle. The -T6 temper will double or triple the strength/hardness of the -T0 alloy. The machining and forming is done in a -T0 temper, and then heat treated to the -T6 temper. Common aluminum alloys that can be T6 heat treated are:

2014 -

2024 - (poor corrosion resistance) Due to its high strength and fatigue resistance, 2024 is widely used in aircraft structures, especially wing and fuselage structures under tension.

6061 - (weldable) is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft. 6061 is commonly used in the construction of bicycle frames and components.

6063 - is used for architectural fabrication, window and door frames, pipe and tubing, and aluminum furniture.

7075 - (not weldable) (very strong, hard to form and machine) 7075 is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages. Its strength and light weight are also desirable in other fields. Rock climbing equipment and bicycle components are commonly made from 7075 aluminium alloy. The bicycle industry is also using 7005 and 6061 aluminum alloys. One interesting use for 7075 is in the manufacture of M16 rifles for the American military.

7178 -

Quoted Wikipedia - Aluminum alloys

Everything I made for military aircraft was either 6061, 2024, or 7075 alloy. The 2024 was the most common average structural alloy. 6061 was used for little brackets and parts that had minimal loads. The 7075 was used for the tough stuff, where great strength was required. All were worked in a -T0 temper, and almost all were tempered to the -T6 to finish. My memory says the 7075 was tempered to a -T651 temper instead of the -T6. Either will work. Almost all were painted with at least a zinc primer.

Because some aluminum alloys will age harden in storage to a -T1 or -T2 hardness, they are annealed by heat treatment back to the -T0 before machining or forming. Then heat treated again (tempered), as required for design of part, back to a -T6 typically.

Bending aluminum will harden it. Welding can also. That hardness can make it brittle and crack. Either right away, or later on from even simple vibration. The annealing and tempering of formed parts will remove the brittleness, and is important in adjusting the aluminum part to uniform hardness and strength.

This information brought to you by the Rockwell B-1B Lancer.

Edited by ReconRat
changed "-T2 or -T4" to "-T1 or -T2"
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Columbus Yellow Pages list for "heat treating metals":

http://yp.yahoo.com/ypResults.py?stp=y&stx=25988748&city=Columbus&state=OH&zip=43215&uzip=43215&msa=1840&slt=39.9651&sln=-83.0048&cs=5&qtx=heat+treating+metals

For aluminum in general (as best I can remember or look up):

the -T0 temper (annealing) is had by heat soaking at 775F to 825F, and then slow cooling to 500F, at a rate of 50F per hour. A quick annealing can be done by heating to about 650F (stress relieving a bend).

The -T1 is had by age hardening. The aluminum is probably -T1 when you buy it, unless it's right out of the mill.

The -T2 only applies to castings that are work hardened (forgings). Flat plate and sheet is wrought aluminum. (rolled out)

the -T4 temper is had by brine solution soaking in a tank for less than an hour at 875F to 950F depending on the alloy, and then quenched in cold water. Thin parts can warp or change shape during quenching.

the -T6 temper is had by furnace soaking for several hours at 250F to 325F depending on alloy, and then air cooled at 70F to 90F in still air for 18 to 24 hours.

There's more, but it makes my head hurt.

If you find something already tempered, you can try working with it. It will be harder to cut, drill, and machine. But shouldn't be any harder than steel, heh? Just don't try bending hard tempered aluminum.

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One of my co-workers does the blacksmith thing. He likes a couple of places. I can ask him. I remember he likes to snoop around one of the metal yards on Joyce ave for pieces. If it's the yard I'm thinking of, the old dude will mess with you on prices. It's his thing, it's what he does all day long.

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Good info here, boys. Now, where can I buy angle iron and scrap metal to weld and create cool shit...?

There's a kick ass scrap place here in Indy. And I come to Cols area and then up I-71 at least once every two weeks. Let me know what ya want and I'll see if I can get it for cheap anbd drop it off to you.

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Yeah, most of what I was reading, people were milling without coolant. And correct, if it's melting or chattering, use slower feed or speed. I'm always surprised that people don't look up the correct speed and feed.

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There is a place on chantry dr. as you head towards the back of JCPenney Outlet (Reynoldsburg) on the left that I have gotten pipe to make ladder racks and stuff. It is a yellowish pole building that houses some type of machine shop. If they cant sell it to you, they will know where to get it.

I think its this place: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43110&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=31.701751,56.25&ie=UTF8&ll=39.925634,-82.834768&spn=0.014974,0.027466&z=15&layer=c&cbll=39.924789,-82.838656&panoid=H52jqX8HIXuw--A27m6luw&cbp=12,528.7758344980964,,0,5

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Okay, that brought up another subject I wanted to know... where can I get something heat treated to a T6 temper for cheap??

I think you need to give more info about what you are doing to get good advice.

6061 mills well but I have had better luck with 7075. proper feeds, speeds, tooling and coolant are needed.

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There's a kick ass scrap place here in Indy. And I come to Cols area and then up I-71 at least once every two weeks. Let me know what ya want and I'll see if I can get it for cheap anbd drop it off to you.

Cool, man. Shoot me your email or I can get it from Rub. I was looking for angle iron for making a table for the bike instead of buying a Powerstands table...

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Cool, man. Shoot me your email or I can get it from Rub. I was looking for angle iron for making a table for the bike instead of buying a Powerstands table...

Just sent it.

You wanna make a pit / display work table?

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I think you need to give more info about what you are doing to get good advice.

6061 mills well but I have had better luck with 7075. proper feeds, speeds, tooling and coolant are needed

Well, Earache is making me an alum swingarm for my NSR. It is going to be welded and the weld spots will not be as strong as the rest of the alum. So, I'll need the swingarm heat treated to make the entire thing the same temper/strength!

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Yup. I might still buy a Powerstand table and then copy it for the garage and use the Powerstand one for the track so it can fold in the trailer...

Gotcha. There might be a chreaper alternative - I'll PM you about it.

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