Guest DSM GIRL Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Alright. I have the 91 FWD TSi, stock. . So I was on the highway this morning going to school and my check engine light came on. And it started to lose power, felt like it was going to die. So I got it off the highway on to a side road in Findlay.. then it sputters so I turned it off.. Made a few phone calls and tried starting it up again. Usually when I start the car it will idle at/around 1400 RPM. When I started it again, it was at/around 1000 RPM, then dropped to 200, then 300 and the engine sounded like it was having a hard/rough time, shaking like crazy and I was getting scared, so I shut it off as it was about to die. I did it once more an hour-ish later, same thing, plus I gave it gas to get the RPM's up, I was flooring it and it didn't even reach 2000RPM (which was weird).. and this time it went from 1000 to 500 then I shut it off right before it died. I was stuck there for over an hour, and had it towed to a garage I work at. But I have no idea what could be wrong. I have a full tank of gas, oil's fine. I warm it up every morning, nothing unusual today. I drove it to Lima last night, and it was fine.. I asked my Auto Teacher and he was mentioning the ECM. But my work was saying something about the ignition system. I'm not aware of anything new yet, but I'll let ya know. If any of you know or think it could be anything, let me know.. If something goes wrong with spending a lot of money to fix it, my grandpa will sell it.. she's my baby.. I can't do that, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Either the caps in the ECU are going bad or somethings up with the MAF, bit i could be wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orion Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 could be worse. it IS a dsm, so you should be happy whenever you get home and it hasnt caught on fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heelside1647545510 Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 if its normally idling at 1400 rpm you had a problem before this normal idle is 750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heelside1647545510 Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 sounds like an ignition problem, pull the plugs and make sure they are alright, like mentioned above, could be the ecm caps, its not uncommon for them to start leaking and ruin the computer. its hard to diagnose something without seeing the car in person, take it to a local mechanic and see what they have to say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s13 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 If the caps were/are leaking your ecu is junk. Check the ecu code first. Theres a write up on the VFAQ on columbusdsm I believe. Did you lose your BISS screw? Blow an intercooler coupling? Sounds more like a boost leak somewhere to me. You go to a tech school and you work at a garage, thats kinda scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vander Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 I think you just need a new battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HotCarl Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 do you have an aftermarket intake piping? Upper intercooler pipe? Check and make sure their secure. If not As s13 said, check you BISS screw, happened on my 94. If none of this makes sense check VFAQ, it will explain everything. oh yeah, ECM=ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heelside1647545510 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 You go to a tech school and you work at a garage, thats kinda scary. be nice, you remember some of the people from tooles, , you should have an answer from your work? to read the code you'll need a multimeter and i believe the steps are on vfaq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan1647545506 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 be nice, you remember some of the people from tooles, , you should have an answer from your work? to read the code you'll need a multimeter and i believe the steps are on vfaq whats this about making fun of tolles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heelside1647545510 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 you know the select few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s13 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 whats this about making fun of tolles? Yea from what everyone I know from Tolles said you were one of the slow kids. LOL Like to do burnouts in the parking lot with your grand am with the wing? Eitherway back to topic. I don't see it being the battery seeing as how she started the car after it shut off, and that wouldn't explain the check engine code. I've heard if your alternator goes out you can have some weird symptons, ie idle problems and such. Get the check engine code and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 start at the top get all the codes out of the computer then find the flow chart and diagnose the symptoms one at a time 100 things can be cuasing the problem you describe don't even try to guess and throw parts at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verse Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Sounds like an ignition problem. Also the catalyic convertor could be clogged up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04silvrz Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 First year of the 4G63. I would love to have a first gen eclipse / talon / laser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackMess Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 My talon does the same thing when my intercooler piping blows off. I've got my logger here in findlay so if u wanted me to come down and hook it up just let me know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DSM GIRL Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 My talon does the same thing when my intercooler piping blows off. I've got my logger here in findlay so if u wanted me to come down and hook it up just let me know! Funny that you mention that. I had/have (thought I fixed it) boost leak in the itnercooler piping. Everything is stock. No hard pipes etc. So, a few of my friends and my boss at the garage thought it was the coil pack. Got one, hooked it up, doing the same thing. Only worse. Took out the ECU, the capacitor is leaking, got a new ECU (used, but from same car), just to see what would happen.. Still the same thing. Don't know if this could be, but engine mount? It's not shifting like it should be, feels looser than ever when going into gears. I'm stalling at every stop, I have to keep on the gas even when driving. When I take my foot off the pedal, or back on, it shakes the car, sort of like a bad shift I wanna say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 is it reasonably driveable? if the car can drive to reynoldsburg on sunday I will look at it for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DSM GIRL Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 It's kinda driveable. When I go slow and come to a stop, If I don't keep on the gas, it will stall. I'm taking it somewhere Saturday, no clue where Reynoldsburg is, ha. I was told, by my teachers, to put dry gas in. I got gas the night before, Shell V-Power, like always. Nothing different. It's at home, I got it from Findlay to my house which is 20 mins away.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TURBOED Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 So this thing was at a garage, throwing a CE light, and no one pulled the code? Why would this not be the first thing looked at? That is the reason the codes are there, to help diagnose a problem. My guess would be either a major leak somewhere in the intake track, or, more likely, a MAF (MAS, whatever) malfunction. Again, if it is the MAF, the CE code should tell you that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DSM GIRL Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I had it taken to the garage, but the CE light only flashed on and off. The kid that works there, my friend, had said he checked it. Mentioned the coil pack. I hate to say this about him, but I don't really believe he did what he could do. I'm not sure, but do the codes stay in the system if the lights off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s13 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 Your suppose to read the flashes.. Did you expect it to talk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heelside1647545510 Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 yes the codes will stay in the system, if the idles fucked up it could be the isc(idle speed control) valve on the throttle body, mines bad in my talon and it idles like shit jumping from 2500 rpm to stalling when the engines cold, but it idles better when the engine warms up. $300 part and only carried at the dealership be more specific in your problems and read the codes. You take a multimeter and next to the interior fuse box will be a small outlet, you touch the tips of the multimeter to the upper left most prong and the lower right most prong and the multimeter should show short flashes on the screen. all of this is explained online or in the haynes manual, its really not that hard, and is the first place you should have started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammit Charlie Posted October 27, 2007 Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Sounds like you need to hook this sucker up to a scan tool and check out the signals your sensors are giving. Should obviously be some form of fuel trimming sensor, assuming you don't have any major leaks anywhere. The only reason why you CEL is there is if you have a device failure which would effect your emmisions, not to say "hey this **** is broke". If you had a blown capacitor in you PCM you needed to replace that regardless. 1g's have been known to have issues with bad PCM's from what I remember. You go to an Automotive Tech school DSM GIRL? I go to Stark State for the same.. 2yr associates in auto technology. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossle Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Like people have said above pull the codes before you throw any more parts at it. Once you get the code(s) post it and im sure a group of people will have the "Ohhhhh thats the problem" light bulb go on in their mind. Once the code is set off, regardless of wether or not the light is still on, it is stored in the computer until it is cleared. Just remember not to assume, that is where mistakes are made and you will lose money if you just throw parts at customers cars. Diagnose it then throw parts at it, then if you are still wrong then it is a little more acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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