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can someone install weld-in subframe connectors?


Red92Notch

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Yeah I thought a drive on was best too, beacuse then the body and sus. are in there nornal "neutral" state.

 

 

Installing on a drive-on lift leaves to many variables. Are all the tires at equal pressure? Easy to check but are the sidewalls all in perfect condition? If running bias-ply, are the run out lengths/diameters perfectly equal side to side? And for the suspension, are the springs the exact rate side to side? Even brand new springs have tolerances. Also are the springs seated perfectly in their perches?, not likely from an assembly line or any car that has been driven a few miles. And the bushings play a major role. Unless every point of movement is controlled via a heim end there will be binding, no matter how smooth the control arms move through their range of motion. The binding caused by a driver just sitting in the passenger seat can take hours or days for the bushings to recover to their original position if the ever do. Not to mention most cars are not of equal weight side to side so the vehicle will never return to square.

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I have always heard to make sure whoever you have do it has a drive on lift.

well you heard wrong

 

hows that famous saying go" just sayin what i heard man"

 

 

 

Gearhead - how for the install, I'm looking at some full lenths.

which ones did you buy? is the car under coated?how rusty is it?

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Installing on a drive-on lift leaves to many variables. Are all the tires at equal pressure? Easy to check but are the sidewalls all in perfect condition? If running bias-ply, are the run out lengths/diameters perfectly equal side to side? And for the suspension, are the springs the exact rate side to side? Even brand new springs have tolerances. Also are the springs seated perfectly in their perches?, not likely from an assembly line or any car that has been driven a few miles. And the bushings play a major role. Unless every point of movement is controlled via a heim end there will be binding, no matter how smooth the control arms move through their range of motion. The binding caused by a driver just sitting in the passenger seat can take hours or days for the bushings to recover to their original position if the ever do. Not to mention most cars are not of equal weight side to side so the vehicle will never return to square.

That is why I had Tinman install mine.

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I'm not doubting anybody, appearntly I don't know, that is why I'm leaving to a professional.

 

Gearhead - I haven't bought any yet, but I know that Mustand SFC are too short. The car is not undercoated, and the undercarrige is in awesome shape, with minimal rust. I don't think rust will be an issue during the install. Any suggestions as to who to buy them from? I have read online it is a straight shot and rectanular tubing is fine, but I'll probably buy something made specificly for the car. Will I need to remove carpet or do anything in preperation for the install?

Thanks for everyone's imput!

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I'm not doubting anybody, appearntly I don't know, that is why I'm leaving to a professional.

 

Gearhead - I haven't bought any yet, but I know that Mustand SFC are too short. The car is not undercoated, and the undercarrige is in awesome shape, with minimal rust. I don't think rust will be an issue during the install. Any suggestions as to who to buy them from? I have read online it is a straight shot and rectanular tubing is fine, but I'll probably buy something made specificly for the car. Will I need to remove carpet or do anything in preperation for the install?

Thanks for everyone's imput!

 

its not a straight shot. the front and rear subframes dont line up. there are many different brands and styles out there. i prefer the thru the floor style. but the install for them is much more in depth, and labor intensive. but it gives you a much stiffer chassis in the long run.

there are bolt-in/weld ones and there are ones that need welded.

close to the bottom of the page http://autoweldchassis.com/univ.ivnu

thru the floor design. plus they sell some nice cage kits and 79-93 Mustang Exact shape mini tubs. ill see if i can dig up pics of how the subframes dont line up!

you should be able to see it in this pic

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/mustang/100_1375.jpg

this is a pic i took of mine during the install. the front frame rails are farther apart then the rear one. and the thru the floor ones are angled for just that reason.

 

and which ones are to short?

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The Mustang SFC are too short for the T-Bird, which has a 4" longer wheelbase. I don't think the the through-the-floor style will be necessary, because this car is my DD, with an occasional trip to the drag strip; I just know it doesn't take much to twist up these cars. Would you also be able to stiffen up the torque boxes as well? Thanks.

BTW I am looking at these: http://40bob.com/?loc=shop&cat=3 or maybe these: http://www.stinger-performance.com/suspensionparts.html

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