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A little Mustang work needed....


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I've got a couple *little* issues with my Mustang I would like to get fixed.

 

1) The little rubber gasket where the Fuel filler neck enters the gas tank is bad (notorious on Mustangs) and fuel leaks out when cornering and just after filling up the tank. The problem is the tank needs dropped a little to pull the fuel filler neck out. Remove screws located inside the filler door, unbolt straps, drop gas tank and pull out filler neck. Then you just need to replace the rubber gasket and reinsert the filler neck and bolt everything back up I've already got a replacement Ford gasket. (Just be sure not to drop the existing or the new gasket down in the tank as it would be a bitch to get out ;) )

 

2) I need a rear o2 sensor replaced. It's easy to get to and I already have a replacement sensor, however you will need to remove (undo electrical tape and cut wiring) the MIL eliminator from the existing wiring and splice it in to the new sensors wiring (real easy).

 

3) If possible, I would also like to have the hood latch adjusted a little as it can sometimes be difficult to latch the hood.

 

4) The float in my coolant overflow reservoir doesn't like to float anymore :( , so while you work on the hood latch, if you could simply unplug the sensor on the coolant tank it would be much appreciated. (That way I won't get the coolant light on the dash).

 

I simply do not have the time nor good location to do this myself (parking garage), and I've been busy as hell with my job. If this is something you would like to tackle, shoot me a PM with an estimate and availability and we can try and get something set up. I'm in no hurry so anytime is fine with me, just let me know. I can drop off the car and leave it overnight during the day, whatever. I've already got all of the parts needed.

 

Thanks guys. :cool:

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if you have a mil eliminator on your rear o2 why are you replacing it?

 

all it monitors is the downstream exhuast after the cat....

 

Because when my old exhaust got ripped off, it ripped all of the wires clean out of the sensor itself. Therefore, even with the mil eliminator still intact it doesn't get any signal from the sensor and is throwing a MIL. The type of MIL eliminators I have, simply splice inbetween the sensor and the connector. They still require the sensor to provide a signal, however, the MIL eliminator simply tweaks the signal to replicate an acceptable level of gases.

 

If I could reuse the old sensor I would have, however the wires were ripped clean out of the sensor and there is no hope of getting the wires back in there and maintaining a good connection. Replacing the sensor is the cheapest repair.

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they make mils that dont need the sensors...

 

and a good programmer will will shut them off all together. and sorry i havent got you a price yet. ive been rather bust

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they make mils that dont need the sensors...

 

and a good programmer will will shut them off all together. and sorry i havent got you a price yet. ive been rather bust

 

Correct, but a $30 sensor is cheaper than any new mil eliminator and is alot cheaper than $300 for a programmer.

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Correct, but a $30 sensor is cheaper than any new mil eliminator and is alot cheaper than $300 for a programmer.

true but if you plan on modding the car much more, the programmer is worth it in the long run. plus you can have it tuned with each mod and so forth

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true but if you plan on modding the car much more, the programmer is worth it in the long run. plus you can have it tuned with each mod and so forth

 

If I mod it anymore the first thing to go is the motor.... I've got much "bigger" plans. ;)

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