Detail Methods

[XChris1632X]

With everyones recent post of detail jobs and the new section I thought it might be a good idea for some of the professionals to post of some of their methods. I know some people might not want to release all of their secrets and such but maybe just a general practice of a normal job. Maybe it can shed some light on the guys new to trying to take care of their paint.

 

 

I am no professional and I realize most jobs vary based on condition but I usually follow a general routine.

 

1- Wash using Meguiars Soft Gel with Microfiber Sponge.

2- Clay bar the car using Clay Magics fine clay with soapy water.

3- Using a buffer and foam pad apply Zymol cleaner wax.

4- Using a buffer and foam pad polish with Meguiars Step 2.

5- Using an orbiter and terry cloth bonnet pre wax with Meguiars step 3.

6- Apply by hand 2 coats of Meguiars Paste Wax.

 

Like I said I am no pro and things can change based on condition but I try to do this on my vehicles in the spring and fall, inbetween these it stays nice enough to just rinse off.

[88lx5oh]

you really do not need to use a buffer with any product your using.

except maybe the meguiars step 2 which is a polish.

 

and using a cleaner wax is really unnecessary. and your kind of defeating the purpose. a cleaner wax is kind of like an all in one type of product.

 

when you use the meguiars step 2, polish your removing the wax that was put on in the previous step.

loose the zymol.

you can use meguiars step one, which is a paint cleaner, then step 2, and then a good carnuba, the step 3 meguiars carnuba will work. i have good success with the meguiars 3 step. for something you can buy at your local autozone its not a bad product.

 

and claying is not an every wash type situation. examine the condition your paint is in and go from there.

 

plastic bag over your hand and feel the paint.. if its ruff youll probably want to make a run with the clay bar.

 

also get your self a grit guard for that bucket, and ditch the microfiber sponge, get something with a little more nap to it, its more forgiving and traps more in the fibers deeper less harm to the paint.

and make sure you rinse that thing out after your done real good.

 

and grab another bucket and sponge for severely dirty areas.

 

if youd like some suggestions on some higher end products id be more than happy to elaborate.

[AudiOn19s]

+1 on what he said.

[Ramsey]

Awesome thread will read again. But i do have a few questions.

 

1. do you use grit guard in both buckets?

2. is there a hose that is safer to use then any other?

3. what kind of nozzle do you reccomend?

4. I am looking for a mothers power ball for my wheels, is there anything better or less expensive?

[AudiOn19s]

With #3 we could get into a discussion on foam guns...otherwise it's all user preference here.

[Aaron]

I was looking for some information on how to use my Porter Cable 7424 buffer correctly. This is a list of the products that I have:

 

PC 7424

6" pads: Black, Yellow, White, Blue

Menzerna micro polish

Menzerna intensive polish

Glanz wax

 

MF spounge

MF buffing towels

 

I have used it twice on my Black VW Rabbit with good results, but not perfect. I was told you should use the least aggressive polish first, then step it up....

 

The first time I did both micro and intensive followed by the wax. About 3 days ago I just did the micro and the wax. It turned out great in most lights, but with a good eye, you could see there were still lots of scratches on the paint.

 

I was wondering if anyone could help me pair the pads with the polishes and at what speed setting on my PC buffer. I have no doubt if I find out the proper pairing of what I already have, I will be able to get my car up to my standards.

 

Thanks a lot guys.

 

Also, what washing practices do you suggest for the pads? Also, what MF drying towels do you recommend?

[Ramsey]

Ramsey,

 

1. You only need a Grit Guard in your rinse bucket. If you're doing a good job of rinsing out your wash mitt, then you shouldn't be introducing any dirt/debris/sediment into the wash bucket at all. When you finish washing your car, your wash bucket should be as clean as when you started.

2. Others may chime in differently, but I've never heard of any.

3. This comes down to preference IMO. As long as it can do both a sharp stream and a gentle shower, then you should be good.

4. Power Ball does a good job, and can be bought for about $24.00. If it were me though, I'd rather do it by hand, and spend the money on a good sealant that will keep the wheels looking nice for long periods of time, and it will make regular cleaning much easier. Products like Optimum Opti-Seal and Zaino Z2 or Z5 can be used on the entire car and wheels, or you could use a product like Poorboy's Wheel Sealant.

 

Exactly what i needed to hear. I will be looking into these products.

 

Detailers, PMs will be sent

[Aaron]

You're starting out right by getting yourself comfortable with the lighter polish combination. I highly recommend that method for new people to either PC or rotary. Get comfortable first...then go for correction.

 

First of all, VW's have very hard clear coat, and require a lot more work, especially with a PC. Depending on the backing plate you have, you might want to invest in some 5" or 5" inch orange pads. On a PC, the smaller the pad, the more correction ability it has...just the opposite of a rotary.

 

If it were me, I would use the IP with the orange or yellow pad. Use a small amount, spread it around at about speed 4.5, and then kick it up to 6 and work it until the polish breaks down (becomes clear). Be sure you're using slow arm movement, and overlap your passes. With a PC and IP, it will probably take a few times per section to get rid of heavier swirls and RIDS.

 

After this is complete, you'll want to start the process over but using the Micro polish and white or grey pad. Once again, I'd use speed 6.

 

In both processes, just keep inspecting your work in the light to see how the progress is going. I always start off with test sections using different combos to see what is going to work best.

 

I wash my pads by hand with some laundry detergent. I let them soak for a while, and then try to work out as much of the polish by hand as possible. If they're heavily soiled, I'll also throw them in the washing machine by themselves after doing a hand wash.

 

There are a lot of great brands of MF towels out there, but the most soft and plush ones I've found so far are the Eurow O'Reilly Shag Weave MF towels. They sell for about $26.00 for a 10 pack. Like I said, there are plenty of good ones...this is what works best for me.

 

I hope this helps...

 

Thanks a lot. This really gives me a good idea of how to modify my technique.

 

I think I have an orange pad......not certain though. I bought a 6 pad set.

 

After our wedding (Sept 6th) I will be sure to pick up some of the MF towels you recommended.

 

Thanks again for the information.

 

One last question for now: how do you tell if the pad you are using is broken down too much to use again?

[Aaron]

lol, I have no doubt...........My fiancee bought me all this stuff along with some other products for xmas........She is def a keeper.

 

I will no doubt be getting more and more into detailing. This is my big start graduating from store bought products.

 

Thanks again.

[Conesmasher]

sooooo many acronyms

 

What does RIDS mean?

[XChris1632X]

you really do not need to use a buffer with any product your using.

except maybe the meguiars step 2 which is a polish.

 

and using a cleaner wax is really unnecessary. and your kind of defeating the purpose. a cleaner wax is kind of like an all in one type of product.

 

when you use the meguiars step 2, polish your removing the wax that was put on in the previous step.

loose the zymol.

you can use meguiars step one, which is a paint cleaner, then step 2, and then a good carnuba, the step 3 meguiars carnuba will work. i have good success with the meguiars 3 step. for something you can buy at your local autozone its not a bad product.

 

and claying is not an every wash type situation. examine the condition your paint is in and go from there.

 

plastic bag over your hand and feel the paint.. if its ruff youll probably want to make a run with the clay bar.

 

also get your self a grit guard for that bucket, and ditch the microfiber sponge, get something with a little more nap to it, its more forgiving and traps more in the fibers deeper less harm to the paint.

and make sure you rinse that thing out after your done real good.

 

and grab another bucket and sponge for severely dirty areas.

 

if youd like some suggestions on some higher end products id be more than happy to elaborate.

 

 

The buffer was always used for speed over doing by hand. I got this method from someone I knew a long time ago. He did quite a bit of detailing work and his stuff and my own always looked pretty good afterwards so I never had any reason to analyize or argue. I do see what you are talking about and I will definatly be looking into evolving my methods.

 

I don't use clay bar after every wash either, only about twice a year. Recently I started using a MF mit over the sponge, is this more like what your talking about using?

 

The only thing that strikes me funny is about loosing the zymol. I have come to be fond of it but for why I don't know. I have also only heard of people swearing by it and preaching to always use a cleaner wax like zymol. I do however understand where your coming from. What applications would you want to use zymol for?

 

Thanks for the good tips guys. Ryan what is your opinion on a different product lineup?

[88lx5oh]

i use a ton of different products, but here are a few good ones

 

car shampoos:

meguaris gold glass

zaino

 

polishes:

for more severe scratches/swirls...

Megs 105

Menzerna powergloss

Poorboys SSR 3

 

medium polishing -

Menzerna IP

Zaino ZPC

Poorboys SSR 2.5

Megs 83

 

fine polish --

MEnzerna SIP

Poorboys SSR3

 

Sealants -

Poorboys EX-P

Zaino z2

optimum optiseal

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0

 

Wax-

poorboys Nattys blue or red

Meguiars #26 followed by Meguiars NXT

Pinnalce XMT 180 high gloss

[XChris1632X]

Where is a local place to buy the Megs professional grade product?

[Zach1647545520]

I am new to this so bare with me. Last year I've always washed my car then used a spray product like jax wax hawian with a mf towl. Now I'm noticing a lot of swirl marks which makes me sick (My car is black)

 

I am now taking interest in learning how to properly wash polish and wax a car. I'm planning on doing this sometime in the spring so in the mean time I am researching on proper methods and figuring out what steps I need and don't need.

 

1.wash?

2.clay or polish?

3.wax?

 

I'm a noob lol. I got the washing part down ok. So what exactly is polishing and clay baring accomplishing? Removing contaminates and swirl marks/ scratches??? I've read that there are polishes that are more abrasive than most and to stick with what you only need.

 

Then after you got that part down the next step would be to properly wax the vehicle correct? Also what equipment would you suggest to apply these products?

 

Thanks any info helps.

[88lx5oh]

clay bar will take out contaminates in your paint, there are different abrasives in clay bars as well. i have used meguiars, mothers, and clay magic.. i like clay magic myself.

 

youll see bits of grime, and stuff pull off the paint and to the clay that you didnt even know where there. it will make the paint feel alot smoother just after using the clay.

 

after the clay is used, all the little minor specs in the paint where those particles you removed used to be, leave pits (you wont be able to see with your eye) well in order to achieve maximum shine you need to level the paint out. depending on how bad your swirl marks are as well, which are yet another mar in the paint, will determine what you use to level the surface with.

 

you can start out with some minor abrasive polishes such as, poor boys ssr3.. if that doesnt remove the swirl try something a bit more harsh like meguiars #83, or menzerna IP... you may need to use something more agressive yet like menzerna powergloss or meguiars #105...

 

those you would apply with a porter cable and a foam polishing pad. there are several pad types as well.. that range from a real abrasive cutting pad, to a finishing pad... use what suit your needs.

 

now if you really need a make over.. you might need to use some compund... i prefer 3m perfectit 3

use with a rotary buffer and wool pad for maximum cut. careful not to burn through the paint.

 

lets say you have to start with the compund and wool pad.. your not done after that. you would then have to work your way through the polishes as well. each compound and polish will leave behind small mars in the paint.. and with each step they will become more invisible. and the clarity will show through.

 

its kind of like trying to polish a piece of metal. you can sand with a corse grit paper and then apply the polishing compound, will it shine? yes but will it be clear no.. so you have to keep using finer and finer grit paper to minimize the scracthes the paper leaves behind.

 

its not that dramatic but you get the idea.

 

 

ok anyways after your polishing is done. you want to make sure you protect that surface.

 

i find a great combo is a nice 100% carnuba 2 coats, followed by a synthetic wax 1 coat, and 2 coats of optiseal work wonders, gives great protection and leaves a nice deep gloss...

 

and using a ton of wax/sealants isnt always the best, only so much can be absorbed into the paint.

 

invest in a couple grit guards, and use a few buckets when you wash your car.

i keep one bucket for jsut the wheels

another for just the top half of the car

anotehr for the bottom half

and a few buckets of just water to clean the sponge

 

same goes with the sponges

have a few of them and dedicate each one for a certain task.

 

speaking of sponges, get a nice chamile sponge or napped mocrofiber sponge something with a thick nap to it, that will trap dirt and not harm the surface of the paint.

[88lx5oh]

also forgot to add... use a good non detergent soap.. locally you can get meguairs gold glass. pretty good stuff for auto zone.. if you use the wrong stuff it will just eat the wax right off the car

[Zach1647545520]

Thanks for the information guys... It's very helpful.

[Zach1647545520]

Where locally can I find a PC 7424? I've read and seen some videos using this and looks like a safe option for a beginner. I'm feeling more educated in this department now and know there is a bunch more to learn. I now can not wait to get started on my car

[SSick06]

I dont know locally I got mine at glimmerglassdetailing.com

 

This is the package I got...

http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/opuldemapa.html