School me on water to air I/C's

[Mike_Shepard]

I have an air to air FM but have kinda been thinking about running a Water to Air but really know nothing about them. This is the kit im looking at and wanted to get your opinions. As for my car 2.2 daytona turbo. weisco pistons clevite bearings eagle rods, P&Pd head, Oversized valves, P&P intake and exhaust mani, 3" exhaust, and swingvalve, stage 1 .63 exhaust housing, super 60 compressor wheel, and a more aggressive cam. I'm looking for about 300 WHP

 

 

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1034&osCsid=535b12af406a270237a601b09792707a

[Guest Removed]

most of the one i dealt with had water tanks that you could stuff with ice that kit is like the 03-04 cobra and lighting setup's. which should be ok with your setup. it will require more tuning. i'm not sure if you will benifit from changing over tho.

[kenny]

I personally wouldn't run one unless it doesn't see much street use. It would be interesting to see MAT readings though since that setup has it's own heat exchanger and a pump...

[Trouble Maker]

Water (liquid generally) is a more efficient conductor than air. So you need a smaller surface area than an air:air to get the same cooling effect.

 

Obviously much more complicated. If you plumb it into your coolant system you need to up your radiator size accordingly. If you have a separate system, you can get away with no radiator for it if you only do short burst. Like in drag racing. Some people do this and put ice water around it or in the reservoir and replenish that each run. Street use a separate system would need it's own radiator. Not only more complicated, but more expensive.

 

The only reason I ever see to do this is if you need super cold charges for short runs, like in drag racing, and an air:air isn't efficient enough or you can put a large enough on in the space you have. Or it's going to be extremely difficult to do an air:air. You can obviously shove water:air in places you can put an air:air. Sometimes there's 'no room' for an air:air.

 

If you already have an air:air, or there's an 'easy' way to add one I see almost no reason to do it. Especially, like Kenny said, you are going to drive it on the street Especially if you are 'only' trying to make 300whp.

[Mike_Shepard]

Thanks for the input Jesse, Kenny, and Rob. I do plan on some track time but a mojority of the time it will be a street car. Not a Street Racer cause that's illegal hahha and nobody does that

[Alfa Turbo]

I run A2W and can share my experiences. It is a street driven 2 liter with a 2.0 gallon resevoir and separate heat exchanger. MAT's are a consistent 20-25*F above ambient whether WOT on the road course or sitting in traffic. It is a very stable system.

 

A2W has its advantages and disadvantages just like everything else; you need to weigh them and see what works best for you.

 

In short A2W is:

-More compact, good for tight spaces

-More efficient than air

-More complicated and has more components

-Is heavier

-More stable MAT/IAT's

 

IMO, water is great for the street... and is an internet rumor to say it is only good for drag racing.

 

Cheers.

[mrtbolt64]

That kit is decently priced for what you are wanting to do. One thing I would do is add a 3 to 5 gallon tank somewhere.

 

I run a/w on the street and I need to add a radiator with fan before it dumps back into my tank. As of right now with extended driving it heats the water up quite a bit.