SpaceGhost Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Ok Got a set of steel braided brake lines, I bought a brake package (lines, 2 quarts of Motul, front pads and rear pads. $199) for my wife's WRX off a vendor. Same lines on her car as my car so I get the lines. So when I put these on, should I just do one at a time and pump the pedal and open and close to bleed them a bit? Or should I replace all four and bleed all 4 and completely put in new fluid? I only ask because I was going to put in The high temp blue stuff in the spring. To be honest my fluid is only a year old. Or do I have no clue at all, if that is the case please give me some instruction/advise. Yours Truly, SpaceGhost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 i replace all four at once then bleed the system. make sure to check to see if you have to bleed them in a certin order (i.e. LF RR RF LR) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 So How does 1 person bleed all 4 at the same time? I have no air compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 So How does 1 person bleed all 4 at the same time? I have no air compressor. You can use whats called a one man brake bleeder. They are very inexpensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Make sure you bleed the brakes starting from the wheel furthest from the brake cyclinder. And do all the lines at once. You get get one of those handy vacs if you like, but im not a fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1qwk767 Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 yeah IM not a fan of the one man brake bleeder kits from Harbor Freight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 SO what is the best thing to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Spaceghost, just try and find someone to help you for about 10 minutes and bleed it normally. Replace all four lines at the same time and start bleeding with the wheel furthest from your brake cylinder as stated, pretty straight forward. What brand of fluid are you using BTW? I understand the Hi-temp blue stuff has a short lifespan(more susceptible to water contamination) compared to regular fluids and it's recommended to be flushed and replaced about every year anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Spaceghost, just try and find someone to help you for about 10 minutes and bleed it normally. Replace all four lines at the same time and start bleeding with the wheel furthest from your brake cylinder as stated, pretty straight forward. What brand of fluid are you using BTW? I understand the Hi-temp blue stuff has a short lifespan(more susceptible to water contamination) compared to regular fluids and it's recommended to be flushed and replaced about every year anyways. I think Pagid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 I see that Pagid makes race pads, but nothing about fluids, however this is the fluid I have previously heard of. I suppose it's not quite a year that you need to flush but they do say around 3 years for a daily driver, more with spirited driving in the mix. - Features/Benefits of ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid: Blue tint of fluid makes bleeding brakes easier Ideal for race use, excellent choice for street driven vehicles, too Boiling point minimum: 536 degrees F Wet boiling point minimum: 388 degrees F Viscosity at -104 degrees F: max 1,400 mm 2/5 Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions To maintain the functional reliability of brake systems, brake fluid must be changed according to the specifications of the vehicle manufacturer (quality and change interval). In race/track applications, it becomes even more critical that the brake fluid is routinely changed to maintain optimum performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Jones Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 I would verify the correct bleeding order for your car. Most of the modern day multi-channel ABS unit's don't necessarily following the "furthest from master cylinder" rule. They also usually want either electronically with a tool purge the ABS unit or go out and slam the brakes to induce an abs pulsing. EDIT: Googling found this: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/38731-diy-how-bleed-sti-brembo-brakes.html bleeding order (RF, LR, LF, RR). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farkas Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 I would verify the correct bleeding order for your car. Most of the modern day multi-channel ABS unit's don't necessarily following the "furthest from master cylinder" rule. They also usually want either electronically with a tool purge the ABS unit or go out and slam the brakes to induce an abs pulsing. EDIT: Googling found this: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/38731-diy-how-bleed-sti-brembo-brakes.html bleeding order (RF, LR, LF, RR). :thumbup: good info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 I would verify the correct bleeding order for your car. Most of the modern day multi-channel ABS unit's don't necessarily following the "furthest from master cylinder" rule. They also usually want either electronically with a tool purge the ABS unit or go out and slam the brakes to induce an abs pulsing. EDIT: Googling found this: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/38731-diy-how-bleed-sti-brembo-brakes.html bleeding order (RF, LR, LF, RR). I should have looked on IWSTI.com, but I didn't think the order would matter and there are so many techs here. Oh well, thanks Jones. Good info, I bought a mityVac from Sears and will pick it up tonight. Pads in the Wife's WRX and Lines on my car, I suspect I will need a long shower when I am done. I may do this SUn or the week of Turkey day as we are off work all week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedrx7 Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 Just pick up some speed bleeders from jegs. You can do a one man bleed. you just replace your original bleeders with these. Works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
girlygirl18t Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 +1000 for speed bleeders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted November 13, 2008 Report Share Posted November 13, 2008 the ones Jegs sell are junk. get the orginal speed bleeders, well worth the extra money. i have them on the vette and love them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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