Guest Removed Posted November 23, 2008 Report Share Posted November 23, 2008 I am assuming that there is still a bad wire that is shorting out and the vibrations from the compressor kicking on is keeping the wire from touching ground but doesn't explain why the CEL stays on and doesn't go off with the compressor. Would that blow a fuse somewhere or something? hard set code, wont go away on its own, but 99% of the time, if the cam sensor if failing on one of these, its a no start diag! or runs shitty all around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 Well, the mechanic had it all day today with no avail. He tore the pig-tails he soldered on off to check them and then insulated it for harmonics (distortion) and taped it back. I asked what he had used to test with and asked about these test and he mentioned something about the 5.0 ohms but nothing else. I am going right now to get the truck to perform these test on my own and ill let you know what i come up with. I was going to get another sensor just for the heck of it to see if that was the problem but apparently its not a common enough part to normally stock and it would take two days to get it. SOL there, but if it is the sensor again, i'll just go to Ford or order it on-line and next day it or something. Luckily he was man enough to admit he was baffled and he refunded the $255 he had charged for the labor/repair of the sensor not all of it as I had a leaky power-steering line (o-rings). I'll keep you posted on what i find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 did you check the timing belt yet? last cam sensor code I had was becuase the timing belt had eaten a couple teeth and slipped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 did you check the timing belt yet? last cam sensor code I had was becuase the timing belt had eaten a couple teeth and slipped That was kind of my thought at first.... But I would hope the mechanic would have checked the timing.... I would have to look it up on how to check it as I have never put a timing light on a ranger before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 hard set code, wont go away on its own, but 99% of the time, if the cam sensor if failing on one of these, its a no start diag! or runs shitty all around Ok, I did the tests on the truck and am a little confused but here are the results... DR2 you have to drive it for more than 30 miles before it comes on, found that out the other day. DR3 was a NO DR4 (I went ahead and did this anyways eventhough I had a no on DR3) This is where I am confused because this one was a yes on the less than 5.0 ohms (No ground fualt correct?) Where do I go from here? Is the sensor bad or is it the PCM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 I should have specified that this was a two pin (Variable reluctance) CMP sensor... I think those tests might be for a three pin i don't know if that would make a difference or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 That was kind of my thought at first.... But I would hope the mechanic would have checked the timing.... I would have to look it up on how to check it as I have never put a timing light on a ranger before... line the crank pulley up with tdc, pull the covers off and check the marks on the pulleys, if the cam pulley is off, rotate it around one more time, then check the one on the side that runs the cam sensor pickup! I should have specified that this was a two pin (Variable reluctance) CMP sensor... I think those tests might be for a three pin i don't know if that would make a difference or not i have been saying this from the get go, that why there is not sycro for it~ Ok, I did the tests on the truck and am a little confused but here are the results... DR2 you have to drive it for more than 30 miles before it comes on, found that out the other day. DR3 was a NO DR4 (I went ahead and did this anyways eventhough I had a no on DR3) This is where I am confused because this one was a yes on the less than 5.0 ohms (No ground fualt correct?) Where do I go from here? Is the sensor bad or is it the PCM if dr3 was a no then read what it says for NO! and what you need to do is turn the key on, and check for voltage on both pins of the connector! should be battery voltage or just below on one connector!. otherwise but your meter on a/c voltage not d/c! so please go recheck! and if you are less then 5 ohm on the other wire ill pull up dr5 for you. so please go recheck that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 line the crank pulley up with tdc, pull the covers off and check the marks on the pulleys, if the cam pulley is off, rotate it around one more time, then check the one on the side that runs the cam sensor pickup! i have been saying this from the get go, that why there is not sycro for it~ if dr3 was a no then read what it says for NO! and what you need to do is turn the key on, and check for voltage on both pins of the connector! should be battery voltage or just below on one connector!. otherwise but your meter on a/c voltage not d/c! so please go recheck! and if you are less then 5 ohm on the other wire ill pull up dr5 for you. so please go recheck that. I'll be right back... Sorry for the confusion on my part.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 line the crank pulley up with tdc, pull the covers off and check the marks on the pulleys, if the cam pulley is off, rotate it around one more time, then check the one on the side that runs the cam sensor pickup! i have been saying this from the get go, that why there is not sycro for it~ if dr3 was a no then read what it says for NO! and what you need to do is turn the key on, and check for voltage on both pins of the connector! should be battery voltage or just below on one connector!. otherwise but your meter on a/c voltage not d/c! so please go recheck! and if you are less then 5 ohm on the other wire ill pull up dr5 for you. so please go recheck that. no voltage at the pins, i even ripped the bull crap the mechanic did off of the connector and tested the bare wires... nothing, and i have 6 M ohms on the PWR GND. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 was the key on engine off? is your meter on the correct setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 New PCM was shipped out today and should be here by friday depending on how our lovely postal system works after the holiday! Got it for $112 shipped and already flashed hopefully just pop it in and go.... I hope!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted November 27, 2008 Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 well you can check it the same way you did the other one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted November 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2008 well you can check it the same way you did the other one! Will do, thanks again Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Recieved the PCM today.... I disconnected the battery cable and replaced the PCM. Drove about 10 miles and decided to fill up with gas. Darn light came back on after a few feet from the gas station. There are absolutly zero driveability issues with the truck now, I can drive without the heat/air on and there is no hesitation... I am leaning more so to a timing belt issue than anything now. I am going to check tomorrow as I had class tonight and just got back. I am still skeptical on the timing belt though, wouldnt that make the truck miss or hesitate if it had jumped a tooth or two? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvfastcarz Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 here's the part number for the 2.3 cam sensor 1L5Z6B288AA now ill check the 3.0 causei know it has the sycro. i dont think the 2.3 does. the 2.3 should just be a 2 wires sensor, not 3 yeah theres no synchronizer listed for the 2.3 at all man there listed for the 3.0 and 4.0 but not for the 2.3 Very true, no 2.3 engines came with the Syncro. I had the same problem with a ranger at my shop, but I figured that it was due to bad wiring (a short). Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 I am still skeptical on the timing belt though, wouldnt that make the truck miss or hesitate if it had jumped a tooth or two? yes and no, some engines have no problem running a few teeth of. some will bend a valve. best way is to find TDC and check the marks if there are any on the timing gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 yes and no, some engines have no problem running a few teeth of. some will bend a valve. best way is to find TDC and check the marks if there are any on the timing gears. There is actually a small plug on the timing cover that you pull and line the dash on the gear to the one on the block. Then reference it to the dash on the balancer if that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Very true, no 2.3 engines came with the Syncro. I had the same problem with a ranger at my shop, but I figured that it was due to bad wiring (a short). Good luck I have been through the wiring twice to check it and even went as far as re-wiring the actual factory connector with ne wire to splice onto the "good" (i.e. non gummed-up/shorted) wire. I have read that some of the refurbished sensors are junk so I have to double check that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2008 Does anyone have a clear pic of the orientation of the marks for the cam shaft? There should be a diamond a slash and a groove; I cant find a decent pic anywhere.... Timing is where it should be.....Back to square one again.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Well, two mechanics down and soon to be the Ford Dealership (Planet Ford). If by Monday they cannot fix the problem, they are throwing in the towel.... They have had the car now for almost two weeks and have put some serious time and money into this stupid truck. All of which they better not charge me for.... The have taken the whole timing belt off which is a lot of time in itself twice in hopes that the pick-up on the oil-pump shaft was bad the first time they replaced. They ran the truck with the cover off to see if there was play in the shaft, none, ran true as true can be. They have replaced wires, fixed the harness, ran all their tests they have for the PCM/cam sensor with no avail. So I guess that means that I am seriously screwed... I have a truck that is going to be junked because of something soooo stupid no one can figure out what it is. Anyone have any ideas? I cannot even pay someone to fix this truck let a lot fix it myself.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red1990LX Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 For those who helped, it was the alternator sending a voltage spike into the PCM causing the CEL. Over-looked it because I just replaced it within the last six months due to the god aweful "nails on a chalk board" sound it made at idle..... Thanks to everyone for their help, I learned a very valuable lesson, never assume..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 that is a first that i have ever heard of that. chalk this up for another reason not to use junk aftermarket parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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