Jump to content

Blackbird died!


Unk Greg

Recommended Posts

Okay, I'm not refering to the video posted by Fonzie...but I was out and about (riding before all the weather hit)....short trip and back home, it was 34 degrees outside and after 40 minutes away and forty minutes back (only plus 5 every once in awhile). Yes it was cold, I got my artic gear and old ski equipment. I can't believe that I'm tuffer than the machine.

....the rest of the story....Jumped on bike to take another loop and got a coupla blocks from house...and experienced my usual luck! Bad luck it died or good luck that it died only a coupla blocks form home???

...better to push the lump a coupla blocks than 50 miles or so!

So jist is...it just quit at the stop sign, turns over, but not firing (running). With choke full on (this bird is the carbed version) it burbles like it wants to run. As soon as the starter button is released...nuthin'. I was just out on it!

So, it's been sitting and by now, I've changed out the gas...even though I was out and about (I'd been running it pretty regularly between snowflakes so fresh gas two or three tankfuls). Yesterday, fired up all the other garage stash....pointed exhaust from one into the radiator...figured if something was froze hot exhaust may take care of it. NOPE! Still dead....next?

Oh yeah...it turned over great under the exhaust heat, then with choke on and it turns over just slightly less. Snowblower won't start either, but that woulda meant work so let's concentrate on the ole 'Bird.

Edited by littlecarbsbigsmiles
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah spark was on my list of next thing to check! Just got pull all that plastic off....and maybe when it getz a bit warmer (for when I work under the shade tree).

The only other thought was ice in gas line (or otherwise plugged). Hmm, lets measure the spread on the handlebars....maybe it'll go in the den real nice and its gotta be warmer in the house!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah spark was on my list of next thing to check! Just got pull all that plastic off....and maybe when it getz a bit warmer (for when I work under the shade tree).

The only other thought was ice in gas line (or otherwise plugged). Hmm, lets measure the spread on the handlebars....maybe it'll go in the den real nice and its gotta be warmer in the house!

If you had moisture in the gas tank, it's very possible it could just be ice. Water normally settles in the float bowls of the carbs. If it froze, it could cause the needles or float bowls to stick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the battery fully charged Greg? If not.....It won't produce enough juice to fire/start the bike....merely turn it over. I go through this every spring with mine. She's carbed, and a cooolddd blooded bitch. If your battery is old/dead....It will die mid ride. Mine did it on I-75 goin' 75 mph, a few years ago. Sam had to come up to Perrysburg & get me with his trailer. Put a new battery in, and she ran fine all rest of summer. Bike alternators don't re-charge the way cars do.....They only replace the initial amount of juice it takes to start the bike....Nothing more, so I've been told. Not like a car where you can drive around for half hour & it will completely recharge the battery from dead.

The problem compounds if you foul the plugs while trying to start it with low battery. The unburnt fuel quickly fouls the plugs....so no spark. Even after the battery's fully charged then, it still won't fire. Several years I've had to pull the tank, & change the plugs (which is a royal PIA because of the crossmember), or spray the snot out of the stacks with carb cleaner/starting fluid to get her to fire finally

Edited by Fonzie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it stalled and then you flooded it. It is very easy to flood any engine when it is cold and if flooded they are very hard to start. When starting an engine in very cold weather you have to be careful with the choke. A flooded engine will pop and studder and a gas smell will come out the exhaust. If you suspect an engine is flooded you should open the choke and hold the throttle wide open to air it out while turning it over then close the throttle and try to start it, if at this point it tries to start but won't stay started use 1/2 choke.

This is what I would do:

1. Fresh gas and drain the carburetor bowels ( gas can go bad in as little as 3 weeks )

2. Charge the battery if the battery is weak you may have to replace it ( I usually leave the charger hooked up to the battery when starting a difficult engine )

3. Try to start bike like you usually do if it starts don't drive until it warms up to normal operating temperature.

4. If bike doesn't start right after attempting to start it, pull 1 sparkplug this will help you locate the trouble. If the plug is dry your not getting enough gas and if it is wet your getting to much gas, or your spark is to weak to light the gas possibly do to weak battery. ( This is the same procedure for your snowblower, try to start like usual, pull sparkplug if it is wet open choke pullstart 10 times reinstall sparkplug try again. If spark plug is dry pump the primer button 5-10 times try again. You may have to pull the plug several times to determine the trouble. Keep in mind that sparkplugs may spark outside the engine but not once reinstalled, I had to replace my snowblower plug as it kept coming out wet. Three of us pulled on that thing for a 1/2 hour checking everything I determined it had to be the plug, went got a new one started 3rd pull. Fix the snowblower first as this will give you confidence to work on your bike. Good Luck

Edited by phugitive
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay...yeah, wasn't yesterday (minus 5 was a heat wave compared to the other days), like Kawi said....I just go out and poke around with it every so often and then back in to get warm...Den will be next option...handlebars 29 inches/door opening 32 inches...that's a plan. Once it's warm....Battery has been on one of them 'tender' thangs...charges and then holds, then charges, etc. I could switch out the battery with the other one as that's easy enough. If it's just a warming up thing and takes care of it, the only other fun will be tormenting the dog with all the noise! Then I'd hafta clean the carpet, and not from the bike drips!

Warmups...always runit two minutes before outing it. If really considerate, shut it off and then let heat build. Once temp comes up, usaully just out.

I looked at the snowblower this mornin' too, but passed on that, maybe later.

Appreciate all the input, and thanks...I'll let folks know what goes down!

Edited by littlecarbsbigsmiles
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bird has sat in the den for a day. More than thawed out. Tried to start, same ole thing, turns over and not firing. So moving on to the electrics now. What's the most expensive electrical component? My luck will dictate, that would be the culprit.

Dog gave it a wide berth, even with it just sitting there! So, no chance to play with the dog by running it in the house!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Until you start logicaly eliminating causes for not starting issue you may be wasting your time but even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile.

The most expensive electrical part for 99-00 cbr1000xx is pgm-f1 unit $742.76 at Bikebandit.

Good Luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would start checking wires on the harness. Especially the ones from the stator to the rectifier and from the rectifier onward. You may have a ground leak, or one of the legs from the stator may be fried.

You should really take the plug wires, pull them individually, and hold them near the block while you crank it, to see if you have spark in each of the cylinders. If not, you know it's the charging/ignition system - bust out your Haynes manual or Shop manual and start tracing wires.

I hate to repeat what everyone else has already said, but CHECK the SPARK!

Edited by JRMMiii
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it ok to check spark like that with a computer control module? (Holding plug wire to ground while cranking.) I thought some service manuals warned against doing that. Please wear insulated gloves if you try that. Newer bikes have a hot spark. The old days of sticking your finger in the plug cap and kicking the kick starter are long gone, heh.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the Feb 09 Super Streetbike today and in the Used and Reviewed section the Blackbird was featured. That section is where bike owners, of the featured bike, send in pictures and comments like best upgrade, favorite aspect, mods, miles done, driver age and year of bike. That bike seems to be bullet proof.

Edited by phugitive
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it ok to check spark like that with a computer control module? (Holding plug wire to ground while cranking.) I thought some service manuals warned against doing that.

I didn't think of that, but I don't know what difference it would make whether you're grounding the current through a spark plug or whether you're doing it through the block? I know some spark plugs have 1.5-5kohm resistance (circuit 'noise' suppression), but at the voltage the ignition module generates to jump the spark gap, that resistance is comparable to using a toothpick to block the Mississippi river.

So, in short, I don't know what it'd hurt from an electrical standpoint - if the module can handle SPARKING a plug, then it should be able to handle sparking the block as a ground.

Edited by JRMMiii
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it ok to check spark like that with a computer control module? (Holding plug wire to ground while cranking.) I thought some service manuals warned against doing that.

Ya I have read that also and even read that when handling them static electricity can mess them up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya I have read that also and even read that when handling them static electricity can mess them up.

I would understand that if you're actually holding the ECM in your hands - that's a "delicate" piece of hardware that is susceptible to damage from voltage spikes, but the driver circuitry for the plugs and plug wires shouldn't be affected by that - hell it's their JOB to transmit high voltage / low current spikes.

Maybe I'm wrong? Where's all the technical guys and my other EE boys to comment on this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...