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Brake Help-Drag Racing


Rice Eater

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I'm putting a Strange master cyl(manual) and Wilwood 4 piston front brake kit on my 82 Camaro, it already has a 9" Moser with the 11" drums in the rear. I run 275/15 drag radials rear(9" slicks at the track) and 165/15 skinnies on the front. The master cylinder has a larger volume in the rear chamber than in the front. Does anyone know if the drums or discs require the additional volume? I have looked at every tech chart in Strange, Wilwood, Mark Williams, and others and cannot find anything on this.

 

Also, Mark Williams recommends an adj proportioning valve on the front brakes when running skinnies up front to put more braking to the larger rear tires, anyone know if it makes a difference whether the line lock is before or after the prop valve in the system?

 

Last, stock line size to drum brakes is 1/4", should I keep the stock size or go down to 3/16" on the rear like the front uses?

 

My theory is that by virtue of the factory using the larger size line on the factory drums and the smaller on the factory discs, that the drums must need more volume and the discs less volume and more pressure. However the 4 piston calipers will have a much larger volume than the stock single piston calipers, about 270% I think so I don't know. I wouldn't think the placement of the prop valve and line lock would make a difference.

 

Any informed help is much appreciated!

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Yeah I'm going to keep the 1/4" lines for the rear until I install the rear discs next winter. Wilwood says the rear chamber with the axle having the largest piston contact area(front 4 piston calipers). prop before line lock with res press valve on rear system.
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Hmmmm, if I put it on the rear brakes, how do I keep it in the box to do the burnout? It's hard enough to keep it in there with it on the front brakes. I could see using it on the rears on a stick car to keep it on the line but I've never heard of it on a auto car. Maybe I've been missing something, I'm interested in anything that will make me faster or more consistant. Tell me more.
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All you do is activate the line lock while not touching the pedal in the water box. Then you can use the brake pedal to control how fast the car comes out of the box, as its controling only the front brakes. You should be able to hold the car if you have multiple piston front calipers without issue.
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Hmmmm, if I put it on the rear brakes, how do I keep it in the box to do the burnout? It's hard enough to keep it in there with it on the front brakes. I could see using it on the rears on a stick car to keep it on the line but I've never heard of it on a auto car. Maybe I've been missing something, I'm interested in anything that will make me faster or more consistant. Tell me more.

 

to block the rear brakes!ie no pressure going back!

 

this way you control the front brakes, so you can walk the car out of the water box, or just leave really long black marks down you street!:D

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All you do is activate the line lock while not touching the pedal in the water box. Then you can use the brake pedal to control how fast the car comes out of the box, as its controling only the front brakes. You should be able to hold the car if you have multiple piston front calipers without issue.

thats the way mine are ,i love it ! no more rear disks burnt up .

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So, if I'm understanding this, I want to hook it up to the back, but basically backwards? Since it is basically a one-way valve when engaged, this would keep the pressure from the back brakes in the same way it would keep the pressure from leaving the front brakes when mounted up front? I would just have to use my foot on the brake pedal instead of taking it off like I do now. So...pull in the water box, engage line lock, press brake pedal, heat tires, roll out of the box, release button, stop normally to pre-stage. Yes-no?
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Yes. You want it to block flow to the rears so when you're rolling the car out using the front brakes the rears aren't being applied.

 

Much better way than locking the front so you're forced to sit in place while getting the tires hot.

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So, if I'm understanding this, I want to hook it up to the back, but basically backwards? Since it is basically a one-way valve when engaged, this would keep the pressure from the back brakes in the same way it would keep the pressure from leaving the front brakes when mounted up front? I would just have to use my foot on the brake pedal instead of taking it off like I do now. So...pull in the water box, engage line lock, press brake pedal, heat tires, roll out of the box, release button, stop normally to pre-stage. Yes-no?

 

basiclly yes.. mine is on a switch. i shut it off after the burn out while im clearing the motor out before i stage. this way i dont have to hold the button, if the cars gets out of hand coming out of the water box.

 

the line lock, does just that. when its on, it lock closed either holding pressure or blocking it! its real simple if there is only one rear line.(coming off the master) ;)

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