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Battery problem...or something?


Bigbird

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My car has been having some trouble starting the past few days when i let it sit all night or day. I'll go to start it and it wont turn over right away, and some of the electronics will click, so I assumed it was my battery. Checked the battery and the voltage is low. So just to be sure I unhooked the battery over night, and then plugged it in in the morning. Except this time it started easier, still had some trouble, but not like it did (having to hold the key for 5 seconds or so to get it to start). So I'm thinking something is draining my battery, don't know what, but I'll still need a new battery. Just to test it out again I left the battery unhooked again all day at work, went to start it when I left and it stuttered like twice before turning over. But on the way home if I was idleing and gave it gas, when the RPM's dropped, they dropped way lower than normal, like down to 300rpms or so. My main concern right now is why are the RPM's dropping that low at idle when I let off the gas? It's like it's about to stall but it doesn't quite. Idk, any help is appreciated. Thanks guys.
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Your rpm's could be dropping because your battery is junk and your alternator is having to work harder to keep it charged. Put a battery in it and then get your alternator tested. Running your vehicle for an extended amount of time with a bad battery can cause your alternator to fail prematurely.
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idle could have to RELEARN after a battery power loss. have the alt checked. and battery checked...a bad battery could cause the alt to over work.

 

IMO sounds like one cell the battery could be getting bad, and very sulfated

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Make sure one of the junk ass side post terminals isn't leaking battery acid, very common. Either way it sounds like the battery is about done. Then get it tested, preferably where someone can put a load on it, but I don't know very many places that do it that way anymore. Most places just use fancy volt meters which I don't put much faith in.
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idle could have to RELEARN after a battery power loss. have the alt checked. and battery checked...a bad battery could cause the alt to over work.

 

IMO sounds like one cell the battery could be getting bad, and very sulfated

 

Hehehe, you said sulfated, thats naughty...

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Make sure one of the junk ass side post terminals isn't leaking battery acid, very common. Either way it sounds like the battery is about done. Then get it tested, preferably where someone can put a load on it, but I don't know very many places that do it that way anymore. Most places just use fancy volt meters which I don't put much faith in.

 

Why do you hate that tester so much? lol.

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Why do you hate that tester so much? lol.

 

Alternators are designed to put out a certain amperage, and batteries are rated in cold cranking "amps". The little fucking testers don't show any of that, they look at voltage and ripple and then calculate a guess, fuck them. The larger testers with amp clamps and the ability to load the system give an accurate test, not a guess. And just for the sake of argument how many times have you tested shit with that tester and gotten different results, happens all the time.

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Make sure one of the junk ass side post terminals isn't leaking battery acid, very common. Either way it sounds like the battery is about done. Then get it tested, preferably where someone can put a load on it, but I don't know very many places that do it that way anymore. Most places just use fancy volt meters which I don't put much faith in.

 

+1 get the battery tested. More than likely to be bad. Perform a parasitic test to ease your comforts.

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sulfated battery plates will short internally, and cause a draw. and also cause them to leak.

 

its a coin tossed with battery that say ac/delco on them. ive seen them last 2 years or less even...and some last long as 10. hell that goes for any battery anymore

 

i like a load testing myself. atleast 125amp draw for 10 sec's to see where battery voltage lands you.

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Alternators are designed to put out a certain amperage, and batteries are rated in cold cranking "amps". The little fucking testers don't show any of that, they look at voltage and ripple and then calculate a guess, fuck them. The larger testers with amp clamps and the ability to load the system give an accurate test, not a guess. And just for the sake of argument how many times have you tested shit with that tester and gotten different results, happens all the time.

 

I miss you already.

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Alternators are designed to put out a certain amperage, and batteries are rated in cold cranking "amps". The little fucking testers don't show any of that, they look at voltage and ripple and then calculate a guess, fuck them. The larger testers with amp clamps and the ability to load the system give an accurate test, not a guess. And just for the sake of argument how many times have you tested shit with that tester and gotten different results, happens all the time.

 

or change the settings and make them all fail :jerkit:

 

dealers use them to get warranty codes :rolleyes:

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