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Ford engineers can lick my balls.


scoots

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Who makes a two piece spark plug, puts no anti-sieze around it and thinks that everything is going to be fine when you try to take them out? I broke two plugs yesterday and the bottom collar section is still stuck in the engine. I come to find out that this is such a big issue that there is a TSB about it, and Ford even designed a special tool to remove the broken part. :mad:
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run the motor a little before you try to pull them out they move a little easier when everything is warm

 

I had the motor up to temp, then let it cool until it was just warm. Then I let some penetrating oil soak for 30+min and they still fucking broke.:(

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do you know the Mac P/N and how much?

SP389FC is the repair kit for when the plugs blow out. $299.99 list price

 

PE391FC is the plug extractor/repair kit for the 5.4s. $79.99 list price

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No, those were the originals. Book says change at 90k, thought I was getting a jump on it.

 

90k is ridicoulous on one of those cars. From the sounds of it, you did okay. It really sucks when the porcelain breaks inside the sleave. I have seen the porcelain break right above the collar and the only way to get it out safely was to remove the cylinder head.

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The best way to get them out is get it to operating temp. Back the plugs off one turn only. Then soak them with a decarbenizing agent. Let it set for an hour then they all come out with out breaking.

 

Unfortunately that is not always the case. For the most part it works pretty well but there are going to be a few here and there that will not come out. Ive done several sets and have always followed that procedure. I have never had a set break in a stang but I have had a few F150's where nothing we could do would prevent the plug from snapping. Having a 2 piece spark plug just is not a good idea period. The best way to prevent it is preventative maintenance by getting the plugs out early, using antisieze on the joint, and replacing the plugs often.

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90k is ridicoulous on one of those cars. From the sounds of it, you did okay. It really sucks when the porcelain breaks inside the sleave. I have seen the porcelain break right above the collar and the only way to get it out safely was to remove the cylinder head.

 

I ordered two tools. One is for removing the porcelain, and the other for tapping and removing the sleeve. There is a little rubber stop that goes into the sleeve before you tap it to catch any metal shavings, but I am a bit nervous about the porcelain part. I have got some small tubing I am going to rig up to a shop vac to make sure nothing is left in there. If I miss so much of a spec of that porcelain....I don't want to even think about that. I am probably nuts for even trying to this myself.

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I ordered two tools. One is for removing the porcelain, and the other for tapping and removing the sleeve. There is a little rubber stop that goes into the sleeve before you tap it to catch any metal shavings, but I am a bit nervous about the porcelain part. I have got some small tubing I am going to rig up to a shop vac to make sure nothing is left in there. If I miss so much of a spec of that porcelain....I don't want to even think about that. I am probably nuts for even trying to this myself.

 

The one for the porcelain is designed to push the porcelain down until it bottoms out in the sleeve and then hopefully you can tap it and grab it with the removal tool. I have had one that the porcelain broke above the crimp and with the porcelain bottomed out it I still couldnt get the tap in enough to get a good hold of the sleeve.

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I ordered two tools. One is for removing the porcelain, and the other for tapping and removing the sleeve. There is a little rubber stop that goes into the sleeve before you tap it to catch any metal shavings, but I am a bit nervous about the porcelain part. I have got some small tubing I am going to rig up to a shop vac to make sure nothing is left in there. If I miss so much of a spec of that porcelain....I don't want to even think about that. I am probably nuts for even trying to this myself.

 

You don't need two. Lisle makes the removed that includes what they call a "porcelain pusher". That pushes the porcelain down into the sleeve so that you can get the extractor to bite properly.

 

Their part number is 65600 IIRC.

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The one for the porcelain is designed to push the porcelain down until it bottoms out in the sleeve and then hopefully you can tap it and grab it with the removal tool. I have had one that the porcelain broke above the crimp and with the porcelain bottomed out it I still couldnt get the tap in enough to get a good hold of the sleeve.

 

That's the Lisle one that I posted above, unless there's another I haven't seen.

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SP389FC is the repair kit for when the plugs blow out. $299.99 list price

 

PE391FC is the plug extractor/repair kit for the 5.4s. $79.99 list price

 

there is still only one kit he needs:p

 

top kit

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_12997/ford_spark_plug_blow_out_problems_how_to_repair.html

that is for the 4 thread head fix(sorry mac didnt have a pic up hal

fucking tool pushers) :p

 

http://www.mactools.com/SearchResults/tabid/79/Default.aspx?Search=PE391FC

this is the one for breaking the 2 peice plugs.

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