AJ Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 sets a check engine light. may run sluggish depending on how far its off, may not run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 if i remember right, the clamp is on the dizzy and there not alot of adjustment on it. not like to old sbc where you can turn the thing 360 and put #1 where ever you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 well I have a good idea where it goes, but I want to make sure it won't hurt anything if it is off. just enough to start it and adj it to where it needs to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 well I have a good idea where it goes, but I want to make sure it won't hurt anything if it is off. just enough to start it and adj it to where it needs to be. thats normally how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 anyone have the tool I need to set the timing? can I borrow it or anyone up for a trip to amanda? I can pay...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 update**** distributor gear fixed miss. had the timing set, with a scan tool. the guy set it too 18 degrees? from what I am reading it should be 0, right? I am getting the 1345 code. also. rob what will you charge to cut out the cats and either eliminate the o2s for weld in bungs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 update**** distributor gear fixed miss. had the timing set, with a scan tool. the guy set it too 18 degrees? from what I am reading it should be 0, right? I am getting the 1345 code. also. rob what will you charge to cut out the cats and either eliminate the o2s for weld in bungs? well the ecu controls the timing. when you time it with the scan tool, it is suppose to be at 0 when set in timing mode.(only a few scanners do it) which scan tool was used? to eliminate the rear o2s you will either need o2 sims, or a programmer. i think the make ORY for those. but i can still do it the other way. just giving you options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 1345 is a crank and cam sensor correlation issue. some info Test Description The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the table. This test will determine if this DTC is intermittent. When the engine speed is raised to 2000 RPM the camshaft retard offset should not vary more than 2 degrees. If excessive pressure is used when performing this test unintentional damage to the distributor shaft could result. If the distributor is one tooth off in either the advanced or retard positions the vehicle may run but 0 degrees camshaft retard offset will not be obtained. If 0 degrees cannot be obtained during this procedure refer to Diagnostic Aids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 ok well, what do you suggest for the cat issue. PM a price, I need it done. I have no clue about the timing. I think he used a obdII, but it was set at 18 degrees. I pm'd AJ about setting the timing for me. lmk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 what cat issue? you never said you had one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 what cat issue? you never said you had one... I want to take the cats out. just wondering if you would do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 18, 2009 Report Share Posted March 18, 2009 your best bet is to just do this. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/31003/10002/-1 theres only one cat under there isnt there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 rob there actually two cats. will I need to do anything with my o2 sensors? I see they have bungs welded in will that not still throw a code? will the rears not effect driveablity? its just the front that effect fuel correct? also how do u gut the cats? the y pipe is $200 and the o2 are another 140. getting sick of spending money on this truck, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 programmer or o2 sims will nix that.. just sawsall behind the cats and start punching them out(helps to start the truck now and again)just dont let chunks get in the rest of the system reuse your o2s for now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Rob, what would you do if this was your truck. it has codes for both rear o2s are bad. orginal cats are on the truck with 194k. only getting 13mpg. finally got it running good, but the mpg is not there. getting the ORY and new o2s would still throw codes and hurt the mpg right? or do the rears have nothing to do with the way it runs? its such and nice truck but I am not going to be able to keep it if the mpg doesn't come up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 what is normal for that truck? imo, programmer(well help with mileage, and shut the 02's off) and ORY that bitch... in town..mileage is going to suck ass. highway will be way better.trust me..i know oh with o2 sims, you wont need rear o2's(or the programmer for that matter) or find someone to program it to shut the rear o2's off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 well normal should be 16-20. I get 13 hwy. So I don't really need rear o2s at all? they just test for emissons and don't affect drivablity? anyone know where I can get a programmer? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 rear o2's just read for the cats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowridns1020 Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 You shouldn't need to set the timing with a scan tool, look in a haynes manual, you drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the number 8 on the distributor, this has the flat distributor with the wires coming out of the sides and not the top correct? If so there is a number 6 and number 8 on the distributor itself, you point it at the number that corresponds to the amount of cylinders the engine has. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99ta Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 You shouldn't need to set the timing with a scan tool, look in a haynes manual, you drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the number 8 on the distributor, this has the flat distributor with the wires coming out of the sides and not the top correct? If so there is a number 6 and number 8 on the distributor itself, you point it at the number that corresponds to the amount of cylinders the engine has. thanks jason, but your about a week late. the hanes manual states its not adjustable. found those directions on the net somewhere and just started over, run very well now. MPG sucks though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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