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need a 2nd opinion P28 ECU question


allblack325i

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ok as some may know I've been having a on going battle with my car...

 

ok I need a second opinion here....

 

so i got my p28 back from a friend after he installed a chipping kit and a chip tuned with the knowledge of everything done to my car. Well I threw the ecu in my car turned the key and it fires up, idels perfectly, revs awesome, lyterally everything is perfect now!!! My fight is over!!!

 

 

 

till i turn the car off......

 

 

Now my check engine light was on so I jumped the pins to pull the codes and i get no codes, the light just stayed on. I try starting the car again and still nothing..... it's just back to the same old cranking thing..... I'm told on another Honda forum to cut a wire like thing (J1) and try it again (basically makes the ecu back to a stock p28) well still I have a check engine light that wont go away and still the car wont fire...

 

 

 

Does anyone have any clue what the problem could be?? Is my chip bad? or is my entire ECU bad???

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maybe you have some of your wiring bad. had a similar situation. took the motor out of 1 car put it and the same computer in the other car, check engine light and runs rough as fuck. check you wiring and as your buddy that did the chip if the ecu board looked good.
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A solid cell usually means bad ecu. but there are other things also that can happen if you have a zif socket sometimes they back off the chip pins so maybe its not getting full contact with the chip. Also the chip could have gone bad i have had a few bad chips in the past see if your buddy will burn you another chip and try that. yes if you cut J1 it returns the ecu to the stock p28 mapping try these steps before doing so.
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A solid cell usually means bad ecu. but there are other things also that can happen if you have a zif socket sometimes they back off the chip pins so maybe its not getting full contact with the chip. Also the chip could have gone bad i have had a few bad chips in the past see if your buddy will burn you another chip and try that. yes if you cut J1 it returns the ecu to the stock p28 mapping try these steps before doing so.

 

here's pics of the ecu maybe this might help with things?...

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/zanesvilleohio/DSC00479.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/zanesvilleohio/DSC00481.jpg

 

Now the p28 that I traded a guy my vafc for worked everytime I turned the key... I even drove on that ecu for about 4-5 days with no problems.. Then I trade that one for this one cause it had a chipping kit already in it and a chipped burned with my cars specs in mind. And then I fire it up one time and it runs perfect, turn it off and then suddenly nothing???? I dont understand... if there was something in my wiring bad then wouldnt the first p28 have fried too then??

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What all has changed since you bought this ecu. so did your friend chip this ecu and sell it to you, if he has your old ecu put it back in your car to test it. all the chips seem to be there except the datalogging pin in CN2, also make sure J12 is cut. there might be a problem with the map on the chip or a bad chip.
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What all has changed since you bought this ecu. so did your friend chip this ecu and sell it to you, if he has your old ecu put it back in your car to test it. all the chips seem to be there except the datalogging pin in CN2, also make sure J12 is cut. there might be a problem with the map on the chip or a bad chip.

 

j12? I was told to cut j1.....

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ok this is either gonna eb one of the all time dumbest questions asked on here or it's gonna be the question needed to be asked to FINALLY put the nightmare behind me!

 

a couple friends and myself were looking over my car to try ad figure out my problem earlier tonight. we installed a virgin p28 and the car would just crank and crank! unlike before when I put the same p28 I originally had in it. I scuffed every contact point for a ground cause I noticed I'm getting a spark but it's a VERY weak one quick flash kind of spark. I then removed my dizzy and took the cap off and was looking at my coil, everything appears to be fine. I start looking at the ignitor and notice there's a wire missing (not clipped on to the ignitor) The color of the wires to the ignitor I'm refering to are these; WHT, BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU and BLU. There's no blue wire, So process of elimintation tells me thats the wire that snaps onto the end of the ignitor... but where does the other end go to/come from?? And what affect does this have on my car?

 

 

my tach hasnt been working either the last few times my car would run... I'm guessing fixing that wire will fix the tach problem. but will this also keep my car from starting right up?...

 

 

 

 

 

it's late... thank you for bearing with me

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FYI, the J12 jumper does not need to be cut on all chipped OBD1 ecus. Cutting it helps improve communication through the CN2 datalogging port.

 

Ignitor wiring:

YEL/GRN = Ignition input control

BLK/YEL = Power

WHT/BLU = Primary output control

BLU = Engine speed output

 

Have you tested the chipped ECU in another car?

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