hpfiend Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 edited above post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 yea the cam angle rotates to advance and retard the timing and it is set correctly according to mazda the plugs are oem replacements ngk correct gap ( and shit camera cant change shit plugs are from like advanced or napa The "throttle damping valve" is in the intake manifold but the wired sticking has gone away and according to mazda and flyin miata they have never had one break I know the gauge sucks but it helps a little and no it just has o2 to read Its a blitz boost gauge and will work I will try that tomorrow after I swap the ecu and see what that does. I am probably going to order a fuel pressure regulator/ gauge this weekend to do the fuel pressure read There is no computer codes throwing at all on the car and i can hold the throttle from under the hood while using the timing light also there is no rtv and the throttle body got cleaned like a week ago doesnt stick and I will try the start fluid thing and clean my AFM as well and the reason the motor was swapped was do to the fact i bought the car running on 3 cylinders bad rings in it the car was not turbo and i will also look in to the air bag thing more too thanks btw the car will be at sonic tomorrow night if you feel like stopping by to gander at it prob buy someone a beer if they figure the fucker out Is there any fresh rtv on the intake manifold mating surfaces? When the engine is running, spray some carb cleaner near vacuum lines and intake manifold mating surfaces block to lower, lower to upper, tb to upper etc... and listen for a change in idle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 12, 2010 Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 5.0 swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 noticed last night it idle and drove a lot smoother while it was warm an humid for some reason idk if the weather helped or what still the 5k shit tho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 12, 2010 Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 How has your gas mileage been? strong fuel smell? I was thinking about this some more and it occurred to me that it sounds like one of your injectors is sticking open at high rpms- an a/f gauge will show lean btw if you are dumping lots of unburnt fuel in a misfire condition as the oxygen is not being used up in combustion. This would also explain the hanging rpms if that injector is staying stuck open after a high rpm surge... and MAY explain the main injector fuse failing but that is a 30 amp fuse so it sounds like you had a dead short somewhere (which may have cooked something else in the process)... have you checked the grounds to the injector harness? Have you checked the connections underneath the box where the fuel injection fuse is located? Have you tried any lucas or gumout fuel treatment? If the injectors aren't too tough to access you may buy one at NAPA and start switching them out one by one but I would get a couple of extra o-rings as they tend to tear if they have been in there a while.. keep us posted on the afm cleaning and vacuum leak checks- I am thinking one of those two is your idle problem. Also let us know about the ecm swap and timing light results but I am thinking you have too much fuel for some reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2010 mpg is a little worse and u can smell gas when I rev it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 car maybe fixed waiting on a part so swapped an ecu while swapping found out my ecu and surrounding wire were covered in rust and were sooo bad so thats all fixed and swapped out car started and ran amazing better then ever retimed it and everything pulled out the jump wire that has to be in turned the car off and now it wont start figured out that my fpr just zero fuel pressure so once thats here she should be perfect! thanks to all you guys helping me narrow the problems down and eliminating possibilities thanks again Im going drinking tonight for my 21st at the pub in polaris i would more then gladly buy anyone who help a beer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 i would more then gladly buy anyone who help a beer as in Rob and Andrew really.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 Glad to have been of assistance so far! If I understand correctly it won't start now and you have zero fuel pressure? What's this about a jumper that is required to be installed? Check that fuel injection fuse again... keep us posted on your progress with it... btw how was the 21st? Hope you survived it- I know mine was pretty intense... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 his timing belt was off a few teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 well that would surely do it- how'd you discover that? I am surprised that sort of problem would just appear after blowing an injector fuse unless goodyear put it off a few teeth for shall we say "repeat business" tsk tsk tsk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 15, 2010 Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 he did the timing belt from my under standing, and he says it keeps jumping time, but last time it acted different..well of course it will if it jumped time on a different cam..lmao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 well fellas I lied car is fucked lol so everything got fixed and now that it ran soooo nice and got it timed and set the idle ran sooo perfect an then removed the wire u attach to time it and she died and wont restart I put the new fpr in and now still wont start seem to have fuel pressure last time i could just tell there wasn't fuel pressure because the line wasnt pressurized pretty sure i have good fuel pressure and now im getting fuel on my spark plugs and looks to be getting spark but now the fpr hums and the fuel pump doesnt shut off at all she wont start anyone have any ideas... all fuses are good and perfect soo ideas nothing has changed since the car died and replaced what i thought to be the problem the line no is pressurized any ideas fellas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 goin to check the timing belt again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 goin to check the timing belt again... this or you have a new problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 dont understand why the fuel pimp stays on same with injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoopid Hipster Posted March 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 ok so timing belt is fine but i went to check the injectors and once I took the fuel rail off the gas just kept trickling out of the fuel rail no matter the angle of it the gas just kept comin out and the key was off so the pump shouldn't have been on ideas.... anyone wanna come look at her lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 pressure in the tank is pushing the fuel out...not the pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpfiend Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Found this-- If you try to START it and then let it come back to ON position then the pump should stay running. Try and go from off, one position to ON without trying to START it and see what happens... Have you checked the connections at, underneath, around this diagnostic box which you installed the jumper in to set the timing? I am thinking you still have a bad ground connection somewhere or a skinned wire in this circuit that caused the fuel injection fuse to blow and by messing with this box to set the timing you either broke the wire or loosened it- Also check this common ground connection they refer to behind the brake booster... Did you do the AFM cleaning procedure? ---------------------------------------------------------------- The 1990 - 1993 Miatas have a Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump. It works like this: When you turn the ignition key to the START position, Coil #1 of the two coils in the COR is powered up, which closes the relay contacts and feeds +12 volts to the fuel pump, starting the pump. When you let the key back into the ON position after the engine catches, Coil #1 is de-powered, and Coil #2 keeps the relay contacts closed IF the ground return side of the coil actually reaches a chassis ground point. The ground return side is wired (on a light green wire) to the Air Flow Meter. Inside the AFM is a set of contacts that are open if the swinging door is closed (no air flow) and closed if the door is open (caused by air flow). The light green wire goes to one of the contacts, and the other contact is connected to a black wire running back from the AFM to the group of grounds under your brake booster. If the ground connection under the brake booster is dirty or corroded, the engine will start and run for about 2-3 seconds, and then die from lack of fuel pressure. Same thing if there is an open circuit anywhere between Coil #2 of the COR and that chassis ground point. Could be a bad COR, could be a bad connection at the AFM, could be a bad set of contacts inside the AFM. Be VERY careful to follow this procedure if you remove the AFM connector!! __________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.