zeitgeist57 Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 I'm finally getting around to ripping out the old water pump, hoses, belt, pulleys, and OPTISPARK in order to tune up/eliminate hot-temp hesitation in my '95 Corvette with just over 90k miles on the odo. In looking at the front of the engine, I think I may have a good oil leak that I need to deal with. Does anyone have the following special GM tools to reseat new seals in the front cover? Please note the following instructions... "Remove the water-pump drive gear using GM tools J 39243 and J 39092; replace the water-pump drive seal, distributor drive seal, and crankshaft seal in the front engine cover (J 39088, J 39090, J 35468)." Install the front cover assembly using tool J 39089 on the water-pump driveshaft assembly so as not to mangle the easily damaged seal. EDIT: Looks like some sort of GM Engine Service Kit? Know a good source for the seals as well? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-Engine-Service-Tool-Kit-Camaro-Corvette-Impala-SS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414d6f2ce9QQitemZ280472005865QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 i have changed a few of these front oil seals in my day, and the only tool i ever needed was the pulley for the balancer, and a seal puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 +1 with Rob. I used a socket and mallet to put the new seals in. For one of them I didn't have a socket big enough, so I just tapped it in with the mallet. The hub adapter is the worst. Pulling it went okay with a 3 jaw puller and the pulley still attached to the hub. The installation as far as I can tell is impossible without the right tool. I haven't been able to find one either. We made one by taking a steal bar and running a threading die down it. I think it was maybe 8 inches long. Do not try to hammer the hub adapter back on. Your chances of getting it back on straight are low, and you run the risk of screwing up the thrust bearing on the crank. Let me know if you want some help. I'd be happy to pitch in with whatever I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Found this, sounds like a good idea for an installer. After almost destroying the crank snout hub threads by using the "get longer bolts" method, I fabbed a hub installer. I bought a 3' length of 7/16" SAE Fine threaded rod, B7 (high strength alloy steel) grade, from here: http://www.nutty.com You'll also need a few grade 8 nuts, a few THICK washers, Red Locktite, and anti-seize lube. I used the washers with anti-seize compound initially but I found a roller thrust bearing that I now use -- I don't remember where I got the bearing. The washers work fine, but the bearing works a bit better. Hub installer parts - http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/HubInstaller_parts.JPG Hub installer assembled - http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/HubInstaller_assembled.JPG Edited March 29, 2010 by Richard Cranium Links didn't post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 29, 2010 Report Share Posted March 29, 2010 my Chrysler puller works best on those, just like the ls1's. as far as it going back on, well i cant give out all my secrets...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 just get rid of the optisjunk while you have it down they make a kit to replace the opti with a cam sensor.... then you can use an lsx pcm and coil on plug ignition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 Nope I have done the Lt1 seals and never had a problem or needed a special tool. Pulling the Hub is fun though. Plenty of information about pulling the hub online. http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/137/l_6b4aa908dbcb4d4093947e715f764cb4.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96blkform Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 If you have the timing cover off, why not throw a cam in there Be very careful not to tear/damage the bottom section of the oil pan gasket, it meets up with the bottom of the timing cover. It you damage that you will have to replace the oil pan gasket which is a big pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 just get rid of the optisjunk while you have it down they make a kit to replace the opti with a cam sensor.... then you can use an lsx pcm and coil on plug ignition thats a cheap upgrade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 cheap no 100,000 times more reliable and easier to work on yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 cheap no 100,000 times more reliable and easier to work on yes Both of the stock optis on my cars (Z28 and Impala) both went 130k plus miles without being touched. I think the reliability issues come from aftermarket units. Now, I will agree, putting it behind the water pump was dumb. Not sure how many rocks you have to smoke before that sounds like a good idea. I'm sure they did it because it was convenient to design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 I ended up getting the cheapie Opti because I'm already running DelTeq...I only need the Opti for the optical signal, no high-voltage spark management. The front of my engine is serioulsy disgusting...I still haven't gotten the water pump off to see what the damage is. If the Opti was good, I swear I'd remove the rotor, silicone the shit out of the cap and put it back on until it died. Again...my understanding is that Opti's tend to fail on the hot (spark) side, not the optical sensor. I've got a replacement in case the original is compromised by coolant or oil...more to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted March 30, 2010 Report Share Posted March 30, 2010 optis fail in the sensor..its what cause's random miss fire's...helli have had new ones give me that issue...gm had lots of issues with those back then i was there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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