xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 any tricks to getting that thing off? I've got the nut off the half shaft and the 3 nuts out of the back of the hub and I can't get the damn thing off there. I've tried hammering the shaft back through the hub and pulling the hub with a 3 arm gear puller. I got it to move out a little bit but not much. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Browning Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 small sledge hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 small sledge hammer while I've been hammering it I can't help but think that there's really no place for that shaft to go....is there enough slop in it to knock it back through there? Doesn't seem like there is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 I got it off there....just kept after it with the gear puller and impact gun. All this BS for an ABS sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 hammer the axle in(carefull not to beat it up to bad, or you'll spend a good amount of time repairing the end) then beat the living piss out of it..saok in pb blaster and repeat.. abs..its over rated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 hammer the axle in(carefull not to beat it up to bad, or you'll spend a good amount of time repairing the end) then beat the living piss out of it..saok in pb blaster and repeat.. abs..its over rated I got it off. I agree on the abs and I'm just trying to sell it and all people hear is a brake problem. There's a lady interested in it and I tried explaining what the abs is but it was a lost cause. It's just sporadic but if $47 will get the truck sold I'll do it. If I were doing this for me that old hub wouldn't be going back on there.....I'd swap it out for a new one but like I say, I'm just trying to get it sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 the sensor is part of the hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 the sensor is part of the hub the reluctor is on the hub...the sensor is part of the dust shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 lucky..97 was the breaking point for the change over 91-97 was like that 97-up was the hub (gm did that shit alot on the 97 trucks) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 lucky..97 was the breaking point for the change over 91-97 was like that 97-up was the hub (gm did that shit alot on the 97 trucks) Some of the newer ones ( buddies 1500) you can remove just the sensor from the hub via allen bolts. This has been a complete headache full of non-sense stuff. The calipers are held on by allen headed pins.....second bolt I went to take off and the allen stripped. Spent quite a bit of time getting that damn bolt out of there. Tried welding the allen wrench into the head but it kept breaking off pieces of the head. I ended up going around the head and tacking little beads all the way around to build it up enough to grab it with a pipe wrench. Finally got it but what a pain that was. I just want to be finished so I can sell the damn thing. I found a few more things I'm gonna fix while I'm at it but I don't want to put any more money into this thing than I have too. They're not buying a new truck so they should expect to have to put some work into a 13 year old truck at some point. It needs front pads but it looks like they'll get a year or more out of these so I'm not even doing those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 when it comes time is there any tricks to get that hub back on the shaft? I'm guessing that whole assembly is going to want to turn while I'm pushing it back up with the bolt. Can I grease them splines to help it slide back up on there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 got my abs sensor in today.....they sent me 2. I really have no use for the second one since they're side specific so I guess I'll contact rockauto about sending it back to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 I got it all back together today for the most part. Still have to buy a caliper bolt to replace the one I ruined getting out of there. Hub wasn't near as bad to get on as I thought it would be.....just pushed it up with the nut using an impact. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 make sure your torque the nut to the proper spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted April 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 make sure your torque the nut to the proper spec. I'm kinda in a pickle there...my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft/lb and it calls for 180. I torqued it to 150 and then gave it a little extra. I've never done a hub like this before...the old ones you tightened down and then backed off a little but this one you don't do that. Not sure exactly what the principle is behind doing it the new way. 180 ft/lb's is a shit ton of torque so I would think that just as long as it's not too loose it should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 old design stuff was like the 2wd that year. 2 bearings, that run on a spindle in races in the hub. but the design your using is a sealed hud, and that way it stays together is the axle nut that needs tightened down. other wise it could eat the bearing. hell the 95-04 mustang front wheel bearing is 258ft-lbs...lol and it rolls nice and free when your done..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 614Streets Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 An easy way to get hub bearings out is use a wide flat air hammer chisel and air hammer right around the edge just for future reference. Works like a dream and quick too. Don at the wrench showed me that trick awhile back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 got the abs sensor swapped out. Now when I'm on the brakes the abs pump kicks in. I pulled the passenger side and cleaned the reluctor wheel and sensor and it's still doing it. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 need to see if its wheel speed, or the pump...need scan tool that can read the data stream from the abs module Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 need to see if its wheel speed, or the pump...need scan tool that can read the data stream from the abs module I'm fairly certain it's the speed sensor even though that's a brand new sensor. The reason I think it's the speed sensor is the abs gets much stronger if I'm turning the wheel while braking. My next move is to see how much trouble it is to get to the abs light and cut the damn wire and unplug the pump. I'm just about done with this POS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 high resistance in the wires can cause this aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 I think my chilton manual has the specs to ohm out the sensor. I just re-checked the part number and it's the correct part number. I spun the hub and watched it to make sure it's not warped and I'm good to go there. Just not sure, short of a bad part, what else could be wrong with it. They sent me 2 parts by mistake and I sent one back....guess I should've held onto the extra one for a while. No good deed goes unpunished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 well, like i said... you have to ohm out the wiring for the sensors now... to make sure the issue is not with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xlr8tn Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 just ohmed out the sensor and it's within spec.....the trouble shooting flow chart in chilton also says that improper air gap between the sensor and reluctor can cause this issue. I did notice when putting the new sensor on it was further away from the reluctor than the original but I have no idea how close it's supposed to be to the reluctor. I may try to bend that dust shield a little bit to tighten up that gap and give that a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted May 4, 2010 Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 your not suppose to ohm it while turning! Correction Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors. 3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector. 4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350 ACmV's. 5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to gain access to the speed sensor. 6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub during service. 7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth, ScotchBrite or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor surface. There should be no rust or corrosion. 8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted, replace the sensor. 9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats. Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218). 10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037). 11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the sensor is seated flush against the hub. 12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel. 13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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