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FS: 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD $1200


Veritas

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Well it's official -i'm buying my FD in a week and a bit so I need to get rid of my talon.

 

Interior is pretty damn solid save a couple of the interior plastic door pieces on the driver and passenger side (where the boost gauge and pillars would go)

 

Motor was just rebuilt less than 8k ago and the head was done just last winter.

 

Clutch and spark plugs were just recently redone last summer as well as the flywheel resurfaced, etc. with one of the clutches from Advanced auto parts for a few hundred (I'd suggest getting a stronger one though, this was more of a temp. fix until I was able to figure out what kind of high end clutch I wanted then I just stopped driving the car).

 

My linkage cable needs adjusted/fixed and I'm just not wanting to do it but if someone were to pay a couple bucks extra i'll take care of it before handing the car off.

 

The door on the driver side needs the handle redone since I just purchased one and put it on only to have someone try to break into the car via that handle and only succeed in messing up the new door handle and not the body/frame at all. The door lock on the passenger side and trunk aren't the same as the ignition and driver side since the previous owner had someone break in and bust the locks up on all of the sides and he just replaced the one lock so the key only works for the driver side and ignition.

 

 

It has a liquid cooled injection system for the intake, big 16g turbo, 2g pistons, arp studs, hks fuel management for the aftermarket fuel pump/system, steel braided fuel lines and brake lines, KYB agx adjustable shocks/struts what have you in the rear and the traditional KYB struts in the front that were just replaced last summer... just a lot and i'll post it up tomorrow.

 

It needs repainted because its oxidized on parts randomly. Sun roof handle is loose.

 

So that's it. Purchase it as is at the price above or make it $2940 and i'll take care of the linkage cable problem.

 

Pictures + the list of stuff it has will come tomorrow when I get back from class.

 

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/57/l_7b00f34f6a13c1b9972078374e5ee8a6.jpg

 

I have warranties also on the suspension so if there's a problem with the kyb's for whatever reason, contact me and we can get them swapped out from Advanced.

 

PM if interested or post up, thanks!

 

Terron

Edited by Veritas
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The car also comes with a fmic I bought forever ago and just never put on. It needs the j-pipe to work fully.

 

Also, the ride is rust free from what I can see, even the under body. Like I said though, pics coming tomorrow.

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Here's a list of all the ish done to it.

 

Engine-

Balance shafts removed

Gasket match ported head and manifolds

2G exhaust manifold

2G throttle body elbow

2G pistons (.50 millimeter over)

Hastings Chrome rings

ARP head studs and rod bolts

Micro polished crank

Big 16G turbo

 

Fuel-

Steve tek system (6an lines from pump to rail, aeromotive adjustable regulator, walbro 255 lph pump, and universal filter)

 

Suspension-

KYB AGX adjustable struts

Eibach Sport springs

Ingalls rear adjustable camber arms

Remanufactured rack and pinion

 

All emission equipment removed or disabled (catalytic converter, charcoal canister, and EGR valve)

Capacitors in factory ECM have been replaced (before failure occurred)

Solid mount bushings for shifter assembly

2.5” buschar racing downpipe

3” Thermal research and development cat back system

2G big brake upgrade

Braided stainless steel brake lines

HKS Turbo Timer

H4 headlight conversion

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  • 1 month later...
Also the linkage cable problem is fixed, the actual bracket for the cables came loose from under the hood so that's what was causing the problem. Now I have to figure out what I unplugged from my fuel system when we put it back together. :p
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Ivegot 96 Miata, brand new top, nice aftermarket 17" wheels and a newly rebuilt motor with about 300 miles on it that id like to try to work something out on if youre interested. Overall the car is in pretty good condition. A solid detail and it would be great. It is a stick car.
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No, I never dynoed it as I have stock fuel injectors but not a stock fuel system. As for the ecu bit, to run a '91+ ECU in a '90 car requires the gauge cluster (tach), coil packs, and power transistor from a '91+ as well. So the '90 is a more versatile ECU as far as swapping.

 

My ecu is the eprom ecu. I was going to send it in since the transistors were done recently and the DSM link was the last bit I needed to open it up.

 

And...

 

No trades.

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Bump, might toss a few bucks at the car but that'll raise the price just a wee bit. We shall see. I just want to fix a couple of the plastic pieces and the handle.
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Alright, lowered the price to $1200 because there's something in the transmission making a rattling sound and im assuming its the clutch fork(didn't replace it when I did my clutch last, boooo) but I don't feel like expending the energy to take the transmission off the engine to do all that nor replace the clutch since I'd have it off anyways. Anywho post up if interested, making out with a steal on this car.
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