Shinko tires

[luvkawzx6-R]

Has anyone ever tried shinko 009 Raven tires? I bought a set on ebay for $140 bucks, thats about what i paid for just my rear tire last year. I've heard some good and bad things. A good friend of mine has a set on his Sv650 and he loves them. I was kinda nervous about off brand tires but for the price you cant beat them. Worse case ill have a good burnout tire. Any opionions?

[SAMBUSA]

Junk. No traction and poor profile.

[kawi kid]

To the wheels!!! Mount something different to the wheels!!!

good save!!!!

[kawi kid]

If I'm not careful people might find out I swallow the knish.

so close

[Moto-Brian]

The drag race guys love 'em. My honest overall opinion?

Pure doo doo.

[Catman]

I notice all of them have a flat profile and not concaved enough to turn well. Grip seems OK ??

[Chrome]

They are JUNK dont waste the money. seems like a good price, but they have no traction. dont buy them!

[SAMBUSA]

I notice all of them have a flat profile and not concaved enough to turn well. Grip seems OK ??

He's talking about the touring tire so it's not flat like the drag tires we are used to seeing. It still has a poor profile which the reviews say that it doesn't stick well in the turns. It also breaks loose under moderate power. Those two alone are enough to keep me away from them

[Blitzburgh]

I bought them for my busa last year. The only complaint I have is a little issue in VERY wet roads. I have no problems with traction and of course I own a busa so it can't turn anyways..

I ride my bike to and from work every day. This is about 100 miles of I-33 every day. I have about 6k on the tires now including our "spirited" trip to KY. The front looks great and the back will have to be replaced in a couple thousand miles.

As many FLAT non-curved miles I log I love the $$ of the tires. I spent less buying both tires and had them installed than just a stock rear. Can't beat the cost and I didn't notice any difference over stock busa tires other than they don't like very wet rainy roads..

If they are the same size as the busa, I will take them off your hands if you are set against using them..

[NinjaNick]

I have about 6k on the tires now including our "spirited" trip to KY.

[SAMBUSA]

Kyle, I thought you had the Shinko Stealth's?

[CleaveTheGreat]

These tires are what was on my f4i when I bought it and I hated them. Bad profile not enough grip in the corners. Like people said before, great if you wanna drag race or just commute but if you wanna ride aggressively they're garbage, buy some pilot powers or pirellis.

[Kosmo]

I see them all on stunt bikes.....starboyz, canton biker boyz....they all use shinko....dry controlled pavements for stunting or drag racing, they are fine....not your commute in rain or aggressive street riding and wet pavements^^^

[Blitzburgh]

Kyle, I thought you had the Shinko Stealth's?

Nope bought these... was under $180 mounted and balanced at Iron Pony..

[yotaman88210]

Id rather spend more on tires and not have to replace bodywork!

[that dude]

Id rather spend more on tires and not have to replace bodywork!

i agree..or have a few skin graphs

[kawi kid]

i agree..or have a few skin graphs

chicks dig scars man!!!

[Hoblick]

i have the Shinko Advance.. got them from the pony..

the rear is not as round as other tires, but for the riding im gonna be doing this year, alto of commuting back and fourth to work, long trips, i think these will do me well.

i looked at alot of reveiws, and its about 50/50 soem guys love them, other hate them

most people who hate them either 1. never tried them or 2. are people who ride track days ALOT.

i havent really got to get into the tires yet, but the little riding i did on them they were great, seem to heat up decently quick, and the grip was pretty good.

will i go with a different tire next year?? i dunno we will see how these pan out, and if i decide to get a little more aggressive with my riding style.

found this info out as well..

shinko sided with yokohama and obtained their tread molds as well as the same materials used

[Hoblick]

ok here is a nice test/review write up on these tires

A bit of research over the last few months (anticipating the need for replacements) revealed a brand I had not previously heard of, the Shinkos.

Rumor has it that Shinko is a major/huge Korean industrial manufacturer, that purchased the technology, molds, rubber compound chemistry, etc. from Yokohama when they ceased production of motorcycle tires.

*I have not been able to substantiate this*.

Yokohama has long been a major player in the tire game, including various forms of motor racing.

The Shinko's price was significantly less than the next-best-thing; they'll have to do.

Besides, I'm a curious type, and consider myself objective, pragmatic and realistic.

I'm not especially brand loyal for bikes or anything else - I simply demand function. I want things that work.

A little history:

I've been riding street/sportbikes at a very high level for more than 25 years and around 1/2 million miles.

Almost every bit of it has been very hard & fast, in some very demanding situations, including Autobahns, Alps, Nurburgring, Spa and other racetracks.

I've likely ridden more miles 2-up, and more miles in rain than most riders have ever ridden all together.

Even 2-up and in rain I usually ride as hard as I can get away with.

I don't have a "Mellow" setting...

I ridden many Dunlop models, from K91's, K291's, K391's, etc. up to modern Qualifiers, D207's (various types) etc.

I've mostly used (& absolutely prefer) Metzelers, with extensive experience on ME77's, ME33, ME99, ME88 and newer models including Rennsports.

On my R1 (no longer own) I used primarily Pirellis (manufactured alongside sporty Metzelers nowadays), including Diablos, Diablo Corsas and SuperCorsas.

I've also had a few Michelins and Continentals in the mix, as well as any number of OEM fitments.

Bottom line - I've used everything from cheapo rim protectors, average/commuters, serious Touring tires, and many sport/supersport tires including DOT race rubber.

I've been known to slide both ends, usually intentionally, and leave blackies at will - I can push most tires as hard as they'll take.

It is with all of this in mind that I decided to take on the Shinkos.

I've got a good background of experience and knowledge for comparison.

Most importantly, I've reached an age and mindset that I'm no longer as concerned with tiny differences and perceived advantages - I just effing ride the damn thing as hard as the bike and tires will take.

I don't make excuses, and I'm somewhat amused by all the concern about "needing" the stickiest tires available, when most riders can't use the grip they have, and couldn't tell the difference anyway.

I've lately been riding my 14 year old $300- rat-bike, on Metzeler Z6 RoadTecs, alongside kids half my age on R6's with racing tires, and scraping hardware and boots doing it!

So, back to the Shinkos.

I had wanted to get the 009 Raven sport-touring model, Shinko's hardest compound/longest wearing, but when it came time (& my strained budget allowed...), I needed tires NOW.

My local FBS (friendly bike shop) had the 006 Podiums (sport tire) the next day, and I couldn't wait any longer.

They were about $200 altogether, mounted & balanced (wheels off the bike).

Link to info: http://www.shinkotireusa.com/product...php?category=1

Initial Impressions:

For break-in, I frankly wasn't all that cautious.

I'm not sure why, perhaps due to the bike's forgiving nature (although not as communicative as a real sportbike) I just didn't feel like tip-toeing.

I set the front pressure at 31, rear as 33; a little low (I usually run 33/36) to better ensure some heat build-up to speed up the process.

I rode a total of 180 miles on a 70ish degree day, almost entirely twisties.

The first 8 miles were surface streets at 40mph, and a slab section at about 65.

A 5 minute stop to fuel up (I'm always thinking about heating/cooling cycles), and immediately into some tight, slowish twisties (Skyline).

Fairly gentle on the tighter bits and the tires were fine.

After about 7 miles of twisties (15 miles total) I started to pick up the pace - cornering deeper (lean angle) but still gentle on the throttle.

At about this point I experienced a couple of minor slides; 1 each from the front and the rear.

To be fair, I was probably pushing a little harder than advisable on brand new tires with only 15 miles.

I noted an interesting characteristic to the slides - smooth, predictable and very easily recovered. Not the least bit sudden.

I've long admired Metzelers for their recoverability when just over the limit, the Shinkos seemed very comparable, although this was at a much lower speed/aggression level due to the newness.

As the day went on I steadily picked up the pace. (Apiary to 47, then 202 towards Astoria).

I later noted that the front end was extremely stable; maybe too stable...

Rock solid in a straight line, completely unaffected by whatever convolutions the road surface threw at them.

They delivered decent feedback; a little wooden compared to SS tires (not unexpectedly), but not quite as numb as the (excellent) Metz Roadtecs.

Feedback was probably on par with any other good "Sport" tire.

It did seem however, that the front tire might be heavy.

I got the sense that a big part of the rock solid stability came from increased gyro-effect from extra weight.

I'd be curious to get an actual weight comparison to other comparable front tires out there.

Turn-in/turn initiation was light and smooth, with deeper turns ramping up very nicely - they rolled in very predictably.

However, in quick left/right transitions, the front didn't want to snap from side to side as quickly as I intended.

I made a riding adjustment to anticipate this and give a solid countersteer to all turns, especially slalom stuff.

They just need a firm hand when ridden aggressively.

A couple of relevant thoughts: I didn't measure it, but by my calibrated eyeballs, the rear tire appears noticeably wider than the Metz Z6 that had just come off.

This alone will cause slower steering.

I had also made a couple of significant changes to the bike's geometry.

I had previously been riding with the Gen-Mar handlebar risers, which raise the bars 3/4'' (about 20mm), however this is accomplished by raising the the fork stanchions in the triple-clamps by the same amount.

I've long been a fan of raising fork tubes to quicken steering, but this is substantial for this bike, in fact a little too much.

So I removed the risers at the same time as the tire change, but decided to leave the stanchions raised about 3mm, instead of perfectly flush as stock - a slight increase.

Effectively lowering the fork tubes compared to what I was used to actually make the steering angle (rake) shallower and would tend to slow the steering.

That, and the lower tire pressure both may have contributed to the front end feeling a little too stable for my tastes.

To be honest, I'm probably a bit more discerning than most riders; most people probably wouldn't even notice it.

However, I've decided to raise the fork tubes back to a total of 10mm showing, in order to split the difference (coincidentally, the exact amount that worked best on the R1).

In the interest of testing, I'm not going to alter the tire pressures or suspension settings for now until I've had a chance to observe the tube height adjustment.

I suspect that increasing the tire pressures and maybe front spring rate (preload) may help minimize the heavy feeling front end.

On my ride I did some exploring and found a delightfully twisty ribbon of asphalt out near Astoria (Olney) that frankly reminded me of Christmas ribbon candy or tinsel draped over the X-Mas tree branches.

As I tend to do, I picked up the pace until I was fairly attacking an unfamiliar road, on unfamiliar and brand new tires (about 60 miles at this point).

Again, a couple of minor but gentle slides and the same heavy feeling front end.

I rode down the coast and came back in on 53.

I decided to hammer 53 (who can resist?!), at least the tighter bits before the junction of 26.

I worked the throttle hard (the V4 has great useable torque that allows early acceleration).

The rear tire gave no real surprises, and surprising grip when I was actually trying to break it loose (good and warmed up by now).

I only got a couple of minor twitches when I was expecting more.

I noted that the front end gave good (if not great) grip, and had lightened up somewhat, no doubt aided by making the rear end squat under throttle, which further confirms my suspicions about necessary adjustments.

I let the tires cool down for about 15 minutes during refueling, latrine break, etc., then slabbed 26 back to (??-the road that leads back to 202/Jewell).

I took 202, 47, through Vernonia then Timber Rd, crossed 26, through Timber, then back to Gales Creek, and a lap around Hagg Lake.

A moderate/quick pace, but not really pushing it.

The front end seemed a little lighter, or maybe I had simply gotten used to it and subconsciously adjusted.

Grip was very good throughout.

I picked up the pace again on some of my favorite backroads that I don't know the name of, and over Bald Peak and home.

There is a favorite little dip into a rising 90-degree right, with a bend to the left over the crest that I like to hit hard.

A few years back a left a big unintended blackie until the crest, on the R1 wearing SuperCorsas (I had a witness behind me who shall go unnamed, but he may remember the construction workers that almost attacked us with shovels when they saw it!).

Admittedly the R1 (tuned for max torque by EDR) made it easy, but the Shinko wouldn't break loose under the VFR's torque.

[Hoblick]

ok here is a nice test/review write up on these tires

A bit of research over the last few months (anticipating the need for replacements) revealed a brand I had not previously heard of, the Shinkos.

Rumor has it that Shinko is a major/huge Korean industrial manufacturer, that purchased the technology, molds, rubber compound chemistry, etc. from Yokohama when they ceased production of motorcycle tires.

*I have not been able to substantiate this*.

Yokohama has long been a major player in the tire game, including various forms of motor racing.

The Shinko's price was significantly less than the next-best-thing; they'll have to do.

Besides, I'm a curious type, and consider myself objective, pragmatic and realistic.

I'm not especially brand loyal for bikes or anything else - I simply demand function. I want things that work.

A little history:

I've been riding street/sportbikes at a very high level for more than 25 years and around 1/2 million miles.

Almost every bit of it has been very hard & fast, in some very demanding situations, including Autobahns, Alps, Nurburgring, Spa and other racetracks.

I've likely ridden more miles 2-up, and more miles in rain than most riders have ever ridden all together.

Even 2-up and in rain I usually ride as hard as I can get away with.

I don't have a "Mellow" setting...

I ridden many Dunlop models, from K91's, K291's, K391's, etc. up to modern Qualifiers, D207's (various types) etc.

I've mostly used (& absolutely prefer) Metzelers, with extensive experience on ME77's, ME33, ME99, ME88 and newer models including Rennsports.

On my R1 (no longer own) I used primarily Pirellis (manufactured alongside sporty Metzelers nowadays), including Diablos, Diablo Corsas and SuperCorsas.

I've also had a few Michelins and Continentals in the mix, as well as any number of OEM fitments.

Bottom line - I've used everything from cheapo rim protectors, average/commuters, serious Touring tires, and many sport/supersport tires including DOT race rubber.

I've been known to slide both ends, usually intentionally, and leave blackies at will - I can push most tires as hard as they'll take.

It is with all of this in mind that I decided to take on the Shinkos.

I've got a good background of experience and knowledge for comparison.

Most importantly, I've reached an age and mindset that I'm no longer as concerned with tiny differences and perceived advantages - I just effing ride the damn thing as hard as the bike and tires will take.

I don't make excuses, and I'm somewhat amused by all the concern about "needing" the stickiest tires available, when most riders can't use the grip they have, and couldn't tell the difference anyway.

I've lately been riding my 14 year old $300- rat-bike, on Metzeler Z6 RoadTecs, alongside kids half my age on R6's with racing tires, and scraping hardware and boots doing it!

So, back to the Shinkos.

I had wanted to get the 009 Raven sport-touring model, Shinko's hardest compound/longest wearing, but when it came time (& my strained budget allowed...), I needed tires NOW.

My local FBS (friendly bike shop) had the 006 Podiums (sport tire) the next day, and I couldn't wait any longer.

They were about $200 altogether, mounted & balanced (wheels off the bike).

Link to info: http://www.shinkotireusa.com/product...php?category=1

Initial Impressions:

For break-in, I frankly wasn't all that cautious.

I'm not sure why, perhaps due to the bike's forgiving nature (although not as communicative as a real sportbike) I just didn't feel like tip-toeing.

I set the front pressure at 31, rear as 33; a little low (I usually run 33/36) to better ensure some heat build-up to speed up the process.

I rode a total of 180 miles on a 70ish degree day, almost entirely twisties.

The first 8 miles were surface streets at 40mph, and a slab section at about 65.

A 5 minute stop to fuel up (I'm always thinking about heating/cooling cycles), and immediately into some tight, slowish twisties (Skyline).

Fairly gentle on the tighter bits and the tires were fine.

After about 7 miles of twisties (15 miles total) I started to pick up the pace - cornering deeper (lean angle) but still gentle on the throttle.

At about this point I experienced a couple of minor slides; 1 each from the front and the rear.

To be fair, I was probably pushing a little harder than advisable on brand new tires with only 15 miles.

I noted an interesting characteristic to the slides - smooth, predictable and very easily recovered. Not the least bit sudden.

I've long admired Metzelers for their recoverability when just over the limit, the Shinkos seemed very comparable, although this was at a much lower speed/aggression level due to the newness.

As the day went on I steadily picked up the pace. (Apiary to 47, then 202 towards Astoria).

I later noted that the front end was extremely stable; maybe too stable...

Rock solid in a straight line, completely unaffected by whatever convolutions the road surface threw at them.

They delivered decent feedback; a little wooden compared to SS tires (not unexpectedly), but not quite as numb as the (excellent) Metz Roadtecs.

Feedback was probably on par with any other good "Sport" tire.

It did seem however, that the front tire might be heavy.

I got the sense that a big part of the rock solid stability came from increased gyro-effect from extra weight.

I'd be curious to get an actual weight comparison to other comparable front tires out there.

Turn-in/turn initiation was light and smooth, with deeper turns ramping up very nicely - they rolled in very predictably.

However, in quick left/right transitions, the front didn't want to snap from side to side as quickly as I intended.

I made a riding adjustment to anticipate this and give a solid countersteer to all turns, especially slalom stuff.

They just need a firm hand when ridden aggressively.

A couple of relevant thoughts: I didn't measure it, but by my calibrated eyeballs, the rear tire appears noticeably wider than the Metz Z6 that had just come off.

This alone will cause slower steering.

I had also made a couple of significant changes to the bike's geometry.

I had previously been riding with the Gen-Mar handlebar risers, which raise the bars 3/4'' (about 20mm), however this is accomplished by raising the the fork stanchions in the triple-clamps by the same amount.

I've long been a fan of raising fork tubes to quicken steering, but this is substantial for this bike, in fact a little too much.

So I removed the risers at the same time as the tire change, but decided to leave the stanchions raised about 3mm, instead of perfectly flush as stock - a slight increase.

Effectively lowering the fork tubes compared to what I was used to actually make the steering angle (rake) shallower and would tend to slow the steering.

That, and the lower tire pressure both may have contributed to the front end feeling a little too stable for my tastes.

To be honest, I'm probably a bit more discerning than most riders; most people probably wouldn't even notice it.

However, I've decided to raise the fork tubes back to a total of 10mm showing, in order to split the difference (coincidentally, the exact amount that worked best on the R1).

In the interest of testing, I'm not going to alter the tire pressures or suspension settings for now until I've had a chance to observe the tube height adjustment.

I suspect that increasing the tire pressures and maybe front spring rate (preload) may help minimize the heavy feeling front end.

On my ride I did some exploring and found a delightfully twisty ribbon of asphalt out near Astoria (Olney) that frankly reminded me of Christmas ribbon candy or tinsel draped over the X-Mas tree branches.

As I tend to do, I picked up the pace until I was fairly attacking an unfamiliar road, on unfamiliar and brand new tires (about 60 miles at this point).

Again, a couple of minor but gentle slides and the same heavy feeling front end.

I rode down the coast and came back in on 53.

I decided to hammer 53 (who can resist?!), at least the tighter bits before the junction of 26.

I worked the throttle hard (the V4 has great useable torque that allows early acceleration).

The rear tire gave no real surprises, and surprising grip when I was actually trying to break it loose (good and warmed up by now).

I only got a couple of minor twitches when I was expecting more.

I noted that the front end gave good (if not great) grip, and had lightened up somewhat, no doubt aided by making the rear end squat under throttle, which further confirms my suspicions about necessary adjustments.

I let the tires cool down for about 15 minutes during refueling, latrine break, etc., then slabbed 26 back to (??-the road that leads back to 202/Jewell).

I took 202, 47, through Vernonia then Timber Rd, crossed 26, through Timber, then back to Gales Creek, and a lap around Hagg Lake.

A moderate/quick pace, but not really pushing it.

The front end seemed a little lighter, or maybe I had simply gotten used to it and subconsciously adjusted.

Grip was very good throughout.

I picked up the pace again on some of my favorite backroads that I don't know the name of, and over Bald Peak and home.

There is a favorite little dip into a rising 90-degree right, with a bend to the left over the crest that I like to hit hard.

A few years back a left a big unintended blackie until the crest, on the R1 wearing SuperCorsas (I had a witness behind me who shall go unnamed, but he may remember the construction workers that almost attacked us with shovels when they saw it!).

Admittedly the R1 (tuned for max torque by EDR) made it easy, but the Shinko wouldn't break loose under the VFR's torque.

[Hoblick]

and here is the rest of that reveiw

I hammered Bald Peak from the Newberg side back to Scholls fairly hard, and the tires worked admirably.

During the entire day they did not want to stand up under as much trail-braking as I dared with new tires, and I get the impression they won't.

Overall grip was just fine, even on sketchy concrete-y and gravelly surfaces.

To be honest, I still held a bit in reserve and didn't really punish them due to being brand new and still working out the mold release agent.

I would say 6-7/10ths for the most part, with occasional 8-8.5/10ths.

The chicken strips are about 1/4" on both sides front & rear - not bad for first ride.

I absolutely did not notice any truly insufficient grip when really asking for it and fully warm; the few tiny slides I noticed I attribute to pushing a cold, brand new tire a little harder than perhaps I should have, but I wanted to know how they would behave when slid - Very well, I'd say.

A couple more heat cycles to fully condition them and I'll hit it harder just to probe their limits a bit more.

I'm also curious about wear.

I do see just a tiny bit of worn edges on the front tread blocks at the end of the day, but to be fair I've always been one to work the front end hard, and for that reason I focused my aggression on the front.

We'll see how it goes.

All in all, I'd say a perfectly adequate, if not inspiring, set of tires, with more than adequate grip for most, at a very reasonable price.

I think for the target market these represent a very good value and have more capability than most buyers will need.

[Blitzburgh]

I would rather buy these tires and let you guys try and convince me that your more expensive tires are better for me..

I will get back to ya when I wreck because of the tires..

I don't do track days, I hardly really do curved roads and I am willing to bet I ride more miles than half the people here. The guy asked for peoples experience and I just told him. The highest price doesn't always equal the best. Especially for people who don't want to buy 4 sets of tires a year because those "best tires" don't last more then 4k miles. I bet if these tires were made by Yokohama you would be singing a different tune.. but wait they are the same materials, molds and technology..

I have 12,000 miles on Shinko 009 tires on my '05 R12RT. The back is ready for replacement, but the front still has lots of tread. I put these on just prior to a 5,000 mile trip this past July. Rode with my brother in law with his Yamaha FJR. He is a speedster routinely taking 55mph corners at 80 or 90. I stayed with him with no handling problems. They do handle a little differently than the Pirellis, Michelins, etc that I had previously used, but didn't take long to get used to. In fact, I think that the Pirelli Diablo Strada is the best handling tire I have had on any of my bikes. The Pirellis last 5-6,000 miles and cost twice as much. The Shinkos work fine for me and I will buy again.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=433271

Before you say it, I know what you are thinking.......SHINKO TIRES? Hear me out!

I am a former roadracer and have 150K or so street miles under my belt, so trust me when I say I know a thing or two about motorcycle tires!

I installed a set of Shinko Raven (009) tires a little while ago. The reason I did is because I work in the industy and one of our distributors is the main Shinko tire distributor for the US, so I got them REALLY cheap and they wanted a review from someone that actually know what he is talking about! These are basically their "high mileage" tire.

I am about 1000 miles into the set and have to say I am REALLY surprised! The tires have a pretty round profile to them, so turn in is slower than I am used to, but that is simply personal preference. Grip is so much better than I thought, I almost can't believe it! Once broken in, I could get all of the leaning angle I could on the Z6's and maybe then some, grip is quite good! I came off a set of Metzeler Z6's (great tires), but for the money, these are winners in my book. I also had the pleasure of riding about 200 miles in the rain and wet traction is great as well with no hydroplaning. Straight line stability is everything you would expect from the big guys and absolutely no headshake like I experienced with the stock Bridgestones, tread pattern is pretty cool looking (some care about that?) and it seems at this point that the mileage should be good as well. Side walls are really sturdy, no squirming, but enough flex to offer good feedback from the front and back end. For those looking for a much cheaper alternative to the big names, I would have to recommend you give these a shot! Oh and by the way, the materials, molds and technology built into these tires are from Yokohama!

http://www.fjrowners.ws/discus/messages/2/29839.html?1109355179

When Yokohama went out of business they sold their motorcycle technology, molds, R&D material etc. to another Japanese company called Shinko. They are excellent tires, with good reviews all over the world. Their pricing reflects the fact that their name (Shinko) is not as well known as Michelin or Dunlop, but the quality is the same if not better. I happen to import scooter and motorcycle tires from Europe, and I know how much they cost to manufacture. The leading names are waaaaay overpriced, and as long customers are willing to pay those prices, they will be!

Anyhow, I have a Shinko 009 on the back, sticks no problem. The weather is turning cooler, and I'll be converting to 005 which is a bit softer tire for cooler weather.

Two thumbs up for Shinko.

Robert

Funny thing about Shinko and maxxus tires, lots of people who have never used them will tell you they're junk, BUT everyone I have talked to that have actually used the tires like them.

There might be some sort of hidden meaning there.....

http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum/showthread.php?t=44197&page=3

So my Dunlop D220s were finally toast (at least the rear was). I had worn the rear down to the steel cords and it was time for new shoes. I didn't have the kind of cash I used to, so I was looking for an "economical" solution to my problem. I also don't like to die, so I didn't want to try anything TOO shabby like used tires or retreads.

I decided to take a chance on a set of tires I found for $140 (for both!) - The Shinko Raven 009. It's their sport-touring tire. WHat's a Shinko you ask? Same thing I thought and so I researched them online. Saw a number of positive reviews so went ahead a bought them.

I just got done with a 50 mile ride on these tires in less than ideal conditions (lots of wet & messy roads) and let me tell you - these tires are very, very good. They were brand new when I set out (changed 'em myself dontcha know) so I was taking it easy. Even so, I did't feel the slightest bobble or slip the whole time (and by halfway through the ride I was starting to ride more aggressively), and like I said the roads were nasty. They have a fairly round profile, so they don't "fall" into turns like other tires I've used. That suits my style just fine.

http://www.sport-touring.net/forums/index.php?PHPSESSID=18183afd756a23e7e292d8cf a385c659&topic=9282.0

REAL GOOD review here..

http://www.sportbikes.ws/showthread.php?t=106588

[shadyone]

i had a buddy who put these on his F4i and they sucked very flat profile slipped on any wet surface. and just felt like crap through a turn. very hard turn in and nervous feeling while leaned over.

he asked what he all needed for a track day and i told him tires. he didn't understand since he just put them on.. i told hime i wouldn't take him to the track unless he changed becausei didn't want to have my day cut short on him crashing and me haveing to go to the hospital..

[NinjaNick]

I would rather buy these tires and let you guys try and convince me that your more expensive tires are better for me..

I will get back to ya when I wreck because of the tires..

I don't do track days, I hardly really do curved roads and I am willing to bet I ride more miles than half the people here. The guy asked for peoples experience and I just told him.

Good post! Some people don't understand that there is all sorts of riding and drag racing is HUGE in America! I LOVE hitting corners, but I respect that there is other types of tires used for other purposes. Drag racing is awesome too! I remember growing up in my 5.0 mustang at 18 and drag racing out behind Airborne in Wilmington Ohio for money. Everyone loves drag racing.

[that dude]

i would have to say you get what you pay for..id rather burn 300 in 4k miles than burn through a set of plastics and jeans..its worth it to me for the r+d name and piece of mind. cheap is typically cheap for a reason..that being said, blitz you have had great results so they cant be too bad.