wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) I am unable to get any spark from the coil on the boat. I replaced the coil and still nothing. To test for spark I have used the screwdriver in the terminal approach, and did the spark plug on the terminal method. I was unable to see a spark from either one. I have tried it from a random wire and from the center wire directly off the coil. What are the positive and negative wires on the coil for? Can I run a jumper from the battery to the plus side of the coil and check for spark? Edited July 6, 2010 by wnaplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRed05 Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 valve cover leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) Nothing Edited July 6, 2010 by wnaplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Edited first post for new problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Are you getting power to the coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Second Gen Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 (edited) Agreed.. Most of the cars I have seen have power to the coil and send signals to the negative to get the spark.. If it is a Ford look for the resistor pack/modulator to see if you left it unplugged. Also in the future (Super moderator) make sure to say the car you are talking about. I can only assume a wheelchair rarely has spark or much of any power.. Edited July 6, 2010 by Second Gen Can't spell to save my ass :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRTurbo04 Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 Also in the future (Super moderator) make sure to say the car you are talking about. . Its for a boat motor. not sure which Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted July 6, 2010 Report Share Posted July 6, 2010 is it a 4.3L GM? i know things about those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 No idea which motor this translates to in boat terms. Its a 5.0 something. Second gen, reading owns you as it states its for a boat in the original post. I put a volt meter to the positive and I am getting the same as the battery. Although when I try to arc the positive across the negative side of the coil it doesnt spark or anything nor when I try to arc it from the positive side of the battery. I wouldnt think my old coil would be bad and then the new one as well but you never know. I have been on it for hrs and hrs now and still no closer. No fuses blown. I hooked up power straight from the battery and still nothing. I bypassed my safety switch and still nothing. Somebody give me something else to check. Under the cap was wet but got it all dried out, could water have gotten lower than the rotor? Even if, why am I not getting spark at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Usually if its a Mercruiser it's a GM IIRC. I think Volvo used Fords and GM, I know there were a few Chryslers used as well as Buicks years ago. Is it a Points Style, or Electronic ignition? Distributor in the front of the motor or in the rear? Heh heh in the rear.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Does the boat have any type of spark box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 I dont think so, its an 89 maxum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 well they had 4.3L in boats and you didn't say if it was V8 or V6. post a picture of the top of the engine so i can see it. what you need to do is check power going to the coil. should be a pink wire if you have the engine i think you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Its a v8 5.0L mercruiser. Its probably to dark for pics to turn out tonight. So much for boating with the smalls tomorow. I dont get it, I have checked almost everything I can think of and everything I could find online. (I am no good with a voltmeter) but I checked the voltage on the + side of the coil and it had the same voltage as the battery. I am so frustrated at this point. AJ heres a pic of a motor that looks almost just like mine but has a different cover. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/digi38989396_l.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 if it has power then its not getting a signal from the dist. to cause the coil to spark. is this an HEI distributor? could be as simple as an ignition module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 It does not have points if thats what you mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 you have the thunder bolt ignition, its super simple. check the shift output switch and the ignition amp. http://www.marinemechanic.com/site_image/TBOLT-IV-WIRING.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Looking at that diagram maybe the shift cut out switch or the Amplifier could be the culprit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 google showed more ign. amp. problems than anything but it could happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 So whats the next thing to check? The wiring all looks like exactly what I have and everything appears to be connected. I havent seen anything that looked like the ignition module nor do I see where its in-line on the diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 Looking at that diagram maybe the shift cut out switch or the Amplifier could be the culprit? I unplugged the amplifier and checked the connection. I will take a closer look at it in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) Heres todays round of tests. I take the distributor spark wire which comes from the coil and inserted a spark plug into the end(spark plug is now resting on block). I turn the ignition to on. I begin to remove the white/green lead from the dist terminal and as I am undoing it, the spark plug begins sparking(I dont know if its from the connect/disconnect of the wire as it comes off the terminal). So I say great heres spark, I tighten it back up and try again, nope. So I am getting spark, I think. Based on the instructions below would you replace the ignition sensor? I think I am reading it wrong for some reason. I had 12 volts going into amplifier. I cannot find the ignition module. I believe I found the shift cutout switch and wondering if I can run a jumper across it to see if the switch is bad. I removed the shift sensor(looks old and somewhat rusty) but after looking at diagrams online there should be a module where I am looking but there isnt. Tests for TB ignition: W/ignition key on AND BILGE WELL VENTILATED OF GAS FUMES!!!Connect your voltmeter neg. lead to the engine ground and pos. lead to the white/red wire terminal at the dist. It should read 12 volts.If 12 volts is present, remove the coil spark wire from the distributor and connect it to a spark gap tester to ground. Remove the white/green lead from the dist. terminal. Turn the ign. key to on and strike the white/green lead to ground. If there is spark, replace the ignition sensor in the dist.If there is no spark, substitute a new coil and repeat test #2. Now if you get spark, install a new coil. NO SPARK, replace ign. amp.In #2, if there is No voltage present, disconnect the white/red wire and check it again for 12 volts. If 12 volts is present, replace the ignition sensor inside the dist. cap. If no 12 volts present w/it disconnected--ignition amplifier is shot and must be replaced Edited July 7, 2010 by wnaplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted July 7, 2010 Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 the amplifier is the module on that system if you call me thursday between 8a and 4p with the number on your amplifier I'll see if i can get you one to try and see if it fixes the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted July 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) Thanks dave, I will probably be calling you for tune-up parts. Can engine parts for automotive use work on boat engines(tune-up parts)? I need plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and probably more than anything the ignition sensor which goes in the distributor. I know boat parts are fitted with special screens that quench internal sparks that might otherwise vent into the atmosphere and light-off gasoline fumes present in the engine compartment. I dont want to run the risk just to save a few bucks. Update: I put the old ignition sensor back in and put everything back together. I put a jumper on the neutral safety switch and still nothing. I take off the jumper and decide to try to fire it up. It almost starts but nothing. I give it a break and go back out and try again it almost wants to start so I keep giving it fuel over and over and it finally starts. I shut it off and hook up the muffs. I again get it to start but it doesnt want to. It finally dies and wont restart even though I can see fuel getting to it. I am hoping that taking out the ignition sensor and roughing up the metal parts that may have given me some indication where my problem actually was. I am hoping that a new one will take care of the problem. The neutral safety switch doesnt appear to ever be triggered. I ran it through all the gears and nothing ever came in contact with it so I dont know exactly what its purpose is. Edited July 7, 2010 by wnaplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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