Second Gen Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 I was going to reccomend a rotary, especially if it would sit most of the time like mine - Not running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Started getting the motor cleaned up a bit and now I will hopefully be testing them to see what kind of condition they are in soon. I was hoping the powertrain when set on the frame would really pull my front end down but it only dropped 2". Now I need to figure out how to get it lower, and I am at a loss. I picked up (2) '34 radiators for a song and I am hoping to be able to get one to work. My driveshaft appears to be to long for the tranny I have so now I need to figure that one out. I am suppose to be hooking up with a local guy who may have some more parts and ideas this weekend(fingers crossed). I was hoping to go kinda low with the stance, but I just cant figure out how to go about it. I have finally hit my first bump where I questioned the point of the whole project. Now I need to focus some more and try to go ahead. Found nothing useful I wanted to spend money on at springfield and that was disappointing but it goes that way I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Korpy1647545521 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 speedway motors sells 6' in dropped front axles that will that lower the front end and the price on it isnt bad at all, if you still want lower after that you can always take leafs out of your springs. also columbus joint and clutch in grove city is very reasonable on prices for cutting and balancing driveshafts if you take him the one you got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FormulaMatt Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Need some more pics!! Sounds cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Ask and you shall receive. I need to get a welder in here so I can change/fix things. I need to do some more bracing. The angle of the spring shakles in this pic make me think the springs are to long. The spring perch may need to be flipped upside down to allow the front to drop another 3". http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110003.jpg The solid mounts for the engine may not be the way to go. I dont think the small pieces of cut angle iron used for the mounts will work either. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110004.jpg The steering shaft angle is off. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110012.jpg The back part of the frame is "z'ed" and I may do the front so the body sits low. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110014.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110006.jpg I think the panhard bar welded right to the pumpkin may not be a good idea. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110008.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110010.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110009.jpg Hoping I can make one of these radiators work http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110016.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/roadster/BenglesvsRams82110017.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 So I tore the whole thing apart today to finally start doing what I want with it. So Now I need to figure how to accomplish the low stance I want. There are 3 options available to me 1. use the frame as is get as low as I can with it so the tranny isnt dragging. This would leave me with around 3" of ground clearance but the body wont be nearly a low as I'd like it. 2. "Z" the front of the frame as well, I can get the body where I want it heightwise and I can ensure that the tranny has enough clearance. 3. channel the body over the frame. This will get the body low but leave the sides(fiberglass) lower than the frame rails, require a decent amount of work to redo the floor, but no frame cuts are required and I can have decent tranny clearance. But the lower I go the less interior room I have. My problem with "z"ing the front is I cant decide if I should do it in front of the firewall so you see the frame turn down or try to do so you wouldnt see this and put it back into the firewall and either sit flush with the firewall or completely behind it which could possibly be seen inside unless I try to put some sort of kick panel or its so far under the dash the eyes never see it. Also how much clearance does everyone feel is safe so I dont damage the tranny should I hit something? I know I am taking a chance no matter what but its not going to be a daily and the few times its out a year, I would just becareful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Is it possible to redo the front leaf spring mount to make it level with the top of the crossmember? That would be 3inches. Can't really tell in the pics how wide the arms are. I know a guy that builds frame rails for these that would look a lot better than that setup. If you're interested I can get you a price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
im faster Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 4G63T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Is it possible to redo the front leaf spring mount to make it level with the top of the crossmember? That would be 3inches. Can't really tell in the pics how wide the arms are. I know a guy that builds frame rails for these that would look a lot better than that setup. If you're interested I can get you a price. I have taken apart the entire front end and suspension setup. The leafspring that was on it was way to long. I will be going with a much shorter one and the new perch will be mounted on top of the frame instead of on bottom. The front/rear stabilizer bars are being replaced with radius rods. There will also be a new panhard bar, coilovers(rear), and new motor mounts. Now I need to figure out the height I want and I can move forward. The pics below are with the frame on stands and the axles just sitting in place. The pics make it look higher than it actually is but I cant tell if I should go lower still. Going lower will require either cutting the frame or channelling the body. Does it still look to high? http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/DSCF6165.jpg] http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/DSCF6166.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopar Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Rear doesn't look bad, I think the front should be lowered an inch or 2 imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Heres a pic that gives more perspective. Its hard to tell in the first 2. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/wnaplay/DSCF6167.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS_Sonoma Posted February 8, 2011 Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Nice ride. Teh rear frame needs some serious work though. At a minimum you need trusses where it is Z'd. If it were mine I'd cut about two feet off the front throw on some A arms with rack and pinion or put the straight axle back under it with a leaf pack on each side and put a nice grill shell of a 32-34 something another. Cool project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2011 Nice ride. Teh rear frame needs some serious work though. At a minimum you need trusses where it is Z'd. If it were mine I'd cut about two feet off the front throw on some A arms with rack and pinion or put the straight axle back under it with a leaf pack on each side and put a nice grill shell of a 32-34 something another. Cool project. I am not sure what trusses are but all the welds are getting gusseted. . I just ripped the rack and pinion off for a reversed corvair box. I like the look of the coilovers stuck down from underneath the rear so thats the route i am looking at now. If you cut 2 ft off, where would you put your engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
106mm Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have a 1928 Model A roadster and a 1931 Model A roadster. Both are all steel, channeled and slammed. PM me if I can help. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/aaa.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 My God that looks like SOOOOO much fun, I want!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
106mm Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 They are a true blast. Mine weighs 2,150 with me in it. Believe it or not, 250 hp is QUICK in one of these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have always wanted one but it is hard to come across parts in this area of the world. And they cost stupid money built. I ever win the lotto I am calling Brookville roadsters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
106mm Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have always wanted one but it is hard to come across parts in this area of the world. And they cost stupid money built. I ever win the lotto I am calling Brookville roadsters The '31 started as a Brookville body and frame. Definitely worth the money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 I have a 1928 Model A roadster and a 1931 Model A roadster. Both are all steel, channeled and slammed. PM me if I can help. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/aaa.jpg Exactly what I am wanting to do. Have any more pics? Did you build it or buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
106mm Posted February 9, 2011 Report Share Posted February 9, 2011 Built it from scratch. I had never done one before, so I had a shop do some of the intricate stuff. Here are some build shots... 350 SBC, Weiand intake w/2x4s, Muncie 4-speed, 9-inch Ford, four bar (hotrodders version of an adjustable four link), 1953 Chevy wheels, Coker Firestone tires, Superbell 4-inch dropped I-beam, Vega box, '32 Ford grill, '40 Ford steering wheel and column, striping by my buddy, Steve Fields. My first recommendation would be to come up with a clear plan as to how you want the car to look. These cars can be ruined by putting the wrong part on them. Each era has its own styling cues. Ya know? http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/framerails.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/HotRodRearEnd.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/Hotrodsplitbones.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/1-1.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/Hotrodunderdash.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/a-3.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/e-1.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s178/vettestuhhail/f.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Really makes me wish I had a metal body to work with. Seems like it would makes things so much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 http://www.arkhotrods.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=2 local place that build frames for your car. really nice guys that are real hot rod people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 http://www.arkhotrods.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=2 local place that build frames for your car. really nice guys that are real hot rod people. Any idea of pricing? I actually have a guy that isnt local but does basic rod frames for $185 which I felt was really fair. Plus when I talk to him tomorrow I will be seeing what he would charge to "z" the front of the frame so my body sits lower. I will call these guys tomorrow but after spending the last year searching for parts I dont think anyone is going to beat this other guys prices. Hes really way cheaper than anyone I can find and he builds these cars professionally so I hope that means he knows what he's doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 Jason why not just use a drop axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.