evan9381 Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 so ive had a feeling for a while the used dealership i got my explorer from may have been a little shady. ive suspected they may have pulled the check engine light from the truck...or, maybe its just burnt out either way, the truck has had a shitty idle since i got it, and horrible on gas...like 12-13mpg...less than i would expect from a v6...maybe i was just overly optimistic...once driving, even giving it the slightest amount of gas, the rough idle is gone... with winter is coming, i plan to be in it a bit more...took it today to get the codes read, and it says both o2 sensors are bad, and the EGR valve is bad. now, the EGR would affect the o2 sensors, correct? would it also affect how the truck starts? when the engine is cold, it fires up right away, yet after i drive it, turn it off for a few minutes, and go to start it again, it turns over for probably 4-5 seconds, and in that you can hear it almost turn over a couple times before it actually fires up and runs fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not Brian Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 now, the EGR would affect the o2 sensors, correct? Yup. I have a feeling this is exactly what's slowly happening with my '98 Mountaineer (same exact truck). It had an O2 sensor code when I bought it, replaced the sensor, next day the cel came back on for the same thing. That was two years ago though.. I'm only getting about 250 miles per $50 tank, you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 sounds about right, but i have probably not put but ~1000 miles since i bought it in april...i have the kia which i DD because it gets stupid good gas mileage...i bought the truck for winters, and to make trips to lowes and shit, and the rare times i need to haul stuff. 250 sounds close though. i think ive only filled the tank 2x. others i just but 25-30 bucks in. does yours have that starting issue i mentioned, or the rough idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not Brian Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Not exactly. Like now when it's retarded fucking cold out it'll start then die once or twice especially if I start it with the heat or lights on.. but then it fires up on the second or third try. Idle goes up and down for like ten seconds but then it runs fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Not exactly. Like now when it's retarded fucking cold out it'll start then die once or twice especially if I start it with the heat or lights on.. but then it fires up on the second or third try. Idle goes up and down for like ten seconds but then it runs fine. yeah, ive had a few times where it fires up then stalls out, but the next time i fire it up and give it some gas for a few seconds and its fine i think im gonna grab the EGR valve tonight after the gym and see if it helps...lucky me i just got a $50 cash rewards from my CC today, and the part is $55.99. lol. figures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 saw this somewhere... "All Ford models should have their EGR valves replaced on the same maintenance schedule specified as the oxygen sensor (about every 12,000 miles)." i hope thats a typo...12k miles? f that. $90 for each o2 sensor, and $50 for the valve...thats $230 every 4 oil changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not Brian Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I just bought the thing for winters and hauling big shit.. I change the oil like twice a year because I never drive it. So.. I'll change out the egr next summer lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 whats the code? more than likely the dpfe (egr flow sensor) is bad and not the actual valve... the o2 sensors are 12 years old they don't last forever expect to put some money in a car that old if you want it to stay tip top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99FLHRCI Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 whats the code? more than likely the dpfe (egr flow sensor) is bad and not the actual valve... +1 http://www.o2simulator.com/ Bypass the O2 sensor and clean 'er out with some Seafoam. The EGR tube may be plugged also. When replacing the valve shine a light in the tube. If it is all carboned up Seafoam will loosen it up and a coat hanger will knock it off the walls of the tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 take the valve off start the car and rev it a couple times if you think the tube is plugged anything thats stuck in there will come right out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 whats the code? more than likely the dpfe (egr flow sensor) is bad and not the actual valve... the o2 sensors are 12 years old they don't last forever expect to put some money in a car that old if you want it to stay tip top Right...i dont expect parts to last forever but when i see that an o2 sensor needs replaced every 12k miles, that seems like its too frequent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 you wont need them every 12k, but if you want to swap them out that often buy bosch they have a lifetime warranty..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 so...here's the story of my life when it comes to fixing shit...pretty sure the valve was bad...when i checked the one in the car, the dish looking shape would just lift up and down...the new one wouldnt at all...so i start to remove it...turns out that the tube that the valve is connected to was so corroded, it snapped off...all the way at the back of the engine...so now i have to replace this as well so how to i get down in there to get this nut out? FML. http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y267/evan938/IMAG1024.jpg?t=1291697449 http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y267/evan938/IMAG1025.jpg?t=1291697449 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinner Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 told you to buy a jeep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 thanks to Dave (gas, grass, or ass)...located the tube i need to replace...heading to get the part here in a few...hit that nut with some PB blaster last night...had been trying wd40 on the nut by the EGR valve, because i didnt realize i had a can of pb blaster...hopefully i can get that nut out and this thing put in today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 well...what a day. this might get a little lengthy... went down to pick up the new EGR tube...the nut on it is a 1 1/16". i went to sears, picked up a 1 1/16" 6pt socket (since the tube snapped off right there), get home, and it seems to be just a bit too big. tried to loosen the nut, but it didnt seem like that socket was going to work. figure i'll try a 1" or a 15/16". go to lowes (closer to home), get both (12pt only), both are too small. head back to lowes to return them, then back to sears for a 1" 6pt. head home, too small. fuck. back to sears, look for a 26mm (about 1 1/32") 6pt, nothing. autozone, nothing. go to oreilly's and check with dave, only 26mm is a 12pt...figure ill try it. he mentioned using a pipe wrench, which i never thought of...i was also able to get my brother to drop off a torch. get home, the 26mm socket fits quite well. no movement at all. perfect (so i thought). heat up the nut, put the socket on, breaker bar, attempt to turn, it rounds off. fuck. grab my enormous pipe wrench, figure out a way to get it on that nut, give it a huge push, and it came loose. fuck yes! put everything back together, crossed my fingers and started it up...holy shit. its like a totally different car. idles completely smooth, my exhaust doesnt smell like its got a gallon of gas in it from 30 feet away, and even after the engine is warmed up, it starts up just fine. total cost ended up being a hair over $100. score. total time invested over last night and today, running between getting parts, tools, etc was probably 8 hours. fail. its done though. whew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave1647545494 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 pipe wrench will do it every time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan9381 Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 wish i knew that. woulda saved me all those trips oh well. i'll know it for next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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