evil8 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I have a Kent-Moore flywheel tool for automatic cars that bolts in with the starter bolts. On stick cars I usually just put the car in gear with the e-brake on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattsv8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 cool i didnt know if the brake would hold or if it would try to bump the motor. thats proably the only engine bolt on other than headers. im planning. just want a fun driver that gets good gas mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Project complete, Congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I think pinning the balancer is a great idea for a performance application, but if anyone wants to debate this anymore here's the removal and install process as stated by GM's own Service Information. Crankshaft Balancer Replacement Tools Required • J 41816 Crankshaft Balancer Remover • J 41816-2 Crankshaft End Protector • J 42386-A Flywheel Holding Tool • J 41665 Crankshaft Balancer and Sprocket Installer • J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter Removal Procedure Remove the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical. Remove the right transmission cover and bolt. Remove the transmission oil cooler lines from the oil cooler clip near the generator. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines at the radiator. Remove the power steering cooler, if equipped. Refer to Power Steering Cooler Pipe/Hose Replacement in Power Steering System. Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. Important: Make sure that the teeth of the flywheel holding tool mesh with the teeth of the engine flywheel. Install the J 42386-A and bolts. Use one M10-1.5 x 120 mm and one M10-1.5 x 45 mm bolt for proper tool operation. Tighten Tighten the J 42386-A bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft). Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt. Do not discard the crankshaft balancer bolt. The balancer bolt will be used during the balancer installation. Use the J 41816 and the J 41816-2 in order the remove the crankshaft balancer. Remove the J 41816 and the J 41816-2 from the crankshaft balancer. Clean and inspect the crankshaft balancer. Refer to Crankshaft Balancer Cleaning and Inspection in Engine Mechanical - 5.7 L Unit Repair. Installation Procedure Important: • The used crankshaft balancer bolt will be used only during the first pass on the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and final passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure. • The crankshaft balancer installation and bolt tightening involves a four stage tightening process. The first pass ensures that the balancer is installed completely onto the crankshaft. The third, and fourth passes tighten the new bolt to the proper torque. • The balancer should be positioned onto the end of the crankshaft as straight as possible prior to tool installation. Install the crankshaft balancer onto the end of the crankshaft. Use the J 41665 in order to install the crankshaft balancer. 2.1. Assemble the threaded rod, nut, washer and installer. Insert the smaller end of the installer into the front of the balancer. 2.2. Us a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod. 2.3. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer is started onto the crankshaft. 2.4. Remove the tool and reverse the installation tool. Position the larger end of the installer against the front of the balancer. 2.5. Use a wrench and hold the hex end of the threaded rod. 2.6. Use a second wrench and rotate the installation tool nut clockwise until the balancer installed onto the crankshaft. 2.7. Remove the balancer installation tool. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten Tighten the USED crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N·m (240 lb ft). Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Important: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten Tighten the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N·m (37 lb ft). Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a final pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A . Remove the J 42386-A and bolts. Install the transmission oil cooler lines to the radiator. Tighten Tighten the transmission oil cooler line fittings to 27 N·m (20 lb ft). Install the power steering cooler, if equipped. Refer to Power Steering Cooler Pipe/Hose Replacement in Power Steering System. Install the transmission oil cooler lines into the oil cooler clip near the generator. Install the right transmission cover and bolt. Tighten Tighten the transmission cover bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in). Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical. Lower the vehicle. Install the air conditioning (A/C) drive belt. Refer to Air Conditioning Compressor Belt Replacement . Perform the crankshaft position (CKP) system variation learn procedure. Refer to Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn in Engine Controls - 5.7 L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSXRAntwon Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 1/8th mile headstart? Thats awful generous of ya, and I will take it. Since you run 3.68 in the 1/4 that will put us dead even at the line. BTW:Are you still working at , http://images4.cpcache.com/product/weed-video+games-stoner/65071704v16_225x225_Front.jpg Kilkare. Spring 2011. Be there sweetie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Kilkare. Spring 2011. Be there sweetie. With an 1/8th mile headstart, I will run anyone on the planet. That shits locked in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattsv8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 will u race me too 1/8th mile head start id like to see how much diff it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 what are u using to hold the motor still so u can get 250ft lbs on the ballancer bolt? I have the Kent-Moore Flywheel Holding tool for LS1 cars. I have a Kent-Moore flywheel tool for automatic cars that bolts in with the starter bolts. On stick cars I usually just put the car in gear with the e-brake on. or this ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattsv8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 cool i think its a mod i should do for reliability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 With an 1/8th mile headstart, I will run anyone on the planet. That shits locked in. Can I get an 1/8th mile head start? Since when do they let bikes run cars anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Can I get an 1/8th mile head start? Since when do they let bikes run cars anyway? Shit homey, You're faster than I am. Gimme 3 and the hit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Shit homey, You're faster than I am. Gimme 3 and the hit. As long as you take off the blower belt, we are good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 As long as you take off the blower belt, we are good No blower belt to No blower belt run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 No blower belt to No blower belt run? See which car goes the shortest distance before it dies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 See which car goes the shortest distance before it dies? Thats where I have you covered. My setup is balancer to blower, the factory serpentine is still there. I ran a 13.30 without a belt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil8 Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Kilkare. Spring 2011. Be there sweetie. Since when do they let bikes run cars anyway? Dear Antwon, Is it possible you can build a car real quick? I just spoke with the track manager at Kilkare and was informed that, as DK opined, cars and bikes cannot run together. I suggest you get an Antron Brown Top Fuel car, as you would only have to change the "r" to a "w" to have your name on the car. Let me know. Sincerely, Evil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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