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Audi/ VAG guys need opinion of 1992-1995.5 C4 S4/S6


6 Speed S4

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I'm looking at picking one up for a fun car, still in the browsing around phase. Which is better C4 S4 or S6, pros/cons of owning one, and price range I should be paying?

 

I'm hoping someone here has owned one. I know the 5 cyl turbo is stupid relable, my buddy had one that went up to 340k running strong. Any input appreciated!

 

 

Heres one I found for sale that looks nice:

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/912/img7599k.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5413/img7606x.jpg

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RymerC on here has a C4 S4, he can tell you all about them, like the difference between them and all that. Like some of the S4's had the carbon fiber interior trim that's really nice, the manual locking diff and maybe something about a trip computer, etc. The seats in those are some of the best seats I've ever sat in.
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Look, it's me!

 

If you want super sexy carbon fiber trim inside, then you'll need a 93'. They made tons of 93s though, so finding carbon trim off a wrecked one isn't impossible... The 92s are generally the best as they had the euro suspension (lower, stiffer) and trip computers. The S6s (95) got a few facelifts- fenders, hood, interior, EDL, lights and look slightly less-old. Yes the motors are very reliable and will make good power for a very long time. These cars are very comfy to drive, and hold up pretty well. They are very reliable as far as turbo Audis go, but being 15-20 year old cars, keep some stuff in mind...

 

Timing belt service- not too hard to do and only about $250 for DIYers now. Do it because replacement heads are tough to find. Also, electrical crap... The coils are getting to the age where they're starting to fail. They're expensive to get OEM coils ($500+), but you can retrofit any number of solutions like 1.8t coils (that will work about 30k miles), LS2 coils (that may cause computer issues), etc. Also a source of major concern- some in the community are having ECU failure due to an ignition driver that is not available to replace. Your only option is finding a less-used computer, or going to an aftermarket solution. Most cars are still fine though. Expect typical VAG stuff like MAF, n75 valve, after-run coolant pump, and such to need replaced if it's original. They are generally much more reliable than the later cars, and mine still has lots of original electronic parts at 186k. You can PM me or ask questions here. I've owned a 93' S4 since 2002, and despite being in 3 accidents, sitting for a couple years, it's still great 100% of the time, 80% of the time.

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Oh, and another thing. This is a big heavy car with a small, low-compression (9:1) motor hauling it around. Don't expect feisty power anywhere until your turbo gets moving. You B5 guys may be used to having boost right-now just off idle, but with a K24 it ain't happening... At least the turbo will make 20psi forever. Adjust driving style accordingly.

 

Back in 1992 227 hp (280 chipped) was pretty decent. Now, you'll get smoked by Odysseys and such all day. Get used to it. They're not quite as good as the old 5000/200s off-road, but with a locking rear diff and a torsen center they're still pretty good.

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These also get crappy fuel economy if you're worried about that... Mine doesn't get warmed up during my 2 mile commute to work, but driving only when it's cold gets 13mpg. Warmed up on the highway the economy is closer to 20.

 

I've seen these sell recently for $2000 for a barely driveable, beat to hell car that needs a couple grand of work. $4500 seems to get you a pretty solid good-looking driver, and $6k+ should get an enthusiast-owned, excellent condition car with some mods and all maintenance.

 

Make sure all the boost hoses are in good shape, especially the intercooler-to-charge pipe hose under the driver's front corner. Also check the steering rack and PS pump for leaks and sketchiness, and make sure you get strong boost building by 2k rpm. Oil pressure should be 5 bar (75psi ish) above 1500 rpm when warm, and right about 2 bar at a warm idle. Mine seems to run about 100c oil temp on the highway.

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These also get crappy fuel economy if you're worried about that... Mine doesn't get warmed up during my 2 mile commute to work, but driving only when it's cold gets 13mpg. Warmed up on the highway the economy is closer to 20.

 

I've seen these sell recently for $2000 for a barely driveable, beat to hell car that needs a couple grand of work. $4500 seems to get you a pretty solid good-looking driver, and $6k+ should get an enthusiast-owned, excellent condition car with some mods and all maintenance.

 

Make sure all the boost hoses are in good shape, especially the intercooler-to-charge pipe hose under the driver's front corner. Also check the steering rack and PS pump for leaks and sketchiness, and make sure you get strong boost building by 2k rpm. Oil pressure should be 5 bar (75psi ish) above 1500 rpm when warm, and right about 2 bar at a warm idle. Mine seems to run about 100c oil temp on the highway.

 

 

Very helpful! Thank you, I will check for all of that.

 

Joe

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