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Diesel Competition Truck Project


XChris1632X

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  • 1 month later...
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My headgasket is smoked. I can't even pull the truck out of the garage without pissing a quart of oil from the head. With the addition of the new injectors, the headgasket didn't last 1 complete full throttle run.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0443.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0444.jpg

 

Oil is everywhere. This has lasted longer than I expected it to last. I am still running on stock headbolts that have never even been retorqued. To assure that this never happens again, I made a hefty investment: $1,300 in headstuds. Thats a big coin for a box of nuts and bolts

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0496-1.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0497.jpg

 

There are two types of headstuds that ARP offers for the Cummins engines. There are the standard 420's which commonly hold up to 800hp and are less than $500. The next step up are these ARP 625's. These studs have been proven stronger than the block and have been known to pull the threads from the block before breaking.

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Obviously I intend to use the upgraded head studs to keep the head pulled down and ensure that I don't have this problem again but I also decide to go ahead and add the external wastegate. Now I will be able to tune the truck to the drive pressure and hopefully be able to achieve someone close to a 1:1 ratio of boost to drive pressure. I have been planning on adding this wastegate since I bought the turbo and I need it to keep from overspeeding the turbo with the nitrous.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0447.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0448.jpg

 

Since I will have the head off and everything disassembled, I decided to upgrade exhaust manifolds. My turbo is a t4 and the stock manifold is a t3 design. Instead of getting a t3 to t4 adapter for the wastegate, I opted for the t4 manifold which should flow a little better up top.

 

This is a one piece stainless steel t4 design

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0446.jpg

 

 

I just got all the parts in so I haven't had a chance to go any further. I hope to have the head tore off before the end of the week.

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i was wondering where you were with the this. i got 625s for my car too.

 

How much were they? I haven't touched the truck in 3 months. I have beeb busy. Now I am also trying to get the fishing boat cleaned up, the wake boat, and the jet ski ready for some good weather. The quads aren't even in the picture anymore.

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  • 2 weeks later...
400-ish, but there were only 12 studs.

 

Yeah, I have 26 studs.

 

I moved the truck back into the shop to start tearing it apart.

 

Just driving it in, it is pissing oil worse with every start up. Hopefully this is the last time that will be the case.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0509.jpg

 

 

 

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0510.jpg

 

Started tearing it apart

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0521.jpg

 

 

I found the cooling system was starting to fill with oil. If you notice the thermostat you can see oil laying on top.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0528.jpg

 

 

Couple more small things to pull apart and the head will be ready to come off. Having time to work on this shit isn't easy with a wife and kids.

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0526.jpg

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Finally got some time tonight to make some progress.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0530.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0531.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0533.jpg

 

You can see where the gasket let go and was making all of the mess

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0532.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0534.jpg

 

Very impressed by the look of the pistons and the cylinder walls. This engine has 210k hard miles on it and constantly sees over 1800 degrees. I was expecting to find that it was time for a new motor. Atleast signs of some real wear.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/IMAG0535.jpg

 

Pictures don't do justice. My cell phone only takes good pictures when it wants to.

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  • 2 weeks later...
If you got oil in your coolant and vice versa you might want to drain the oil and check your bearings. A lot of the time when coolant gets in the oil a spun bearing is in the near future. Thats what happened to my supra, after the 2nd MHG went coolant got in my oil, got the car rebuilt/put back together (The top end) only to drive it for a few miles then it spun one of the bearings.
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  • 3 weeks later...
If you got oil in your coolant and vice versa you might want to drain the oil and check your bearings. A lot of the time when coolant gets in the oil a spun bearing is in the near future. Thats what happened to my supra, after the 2nd MHG went coolant got in my oil, got the car rebuilt/put back together (The top end) only to drive it for a few miles then it spun one of the bearings.

 

Yeah I have been there. I have not found any signs of coolant in the oil, only oil in the coolant. The oil is getting changed and that will be the extent of that. The engine has 210k on it. I will ride the stock bottom end out as long as it lasts. At least that is my plan for now. If I can get some solid power running through it and get some great track times I will start throwing parts at the bottom end granted it is still intact. These bottom ends have seen 1000hp untouched.

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The street level port job is done and the head is still at the machine shop. It got .012 taken off of it and the valves put back to original location.

 

In the meantime I picked up a donor truck. Im parting out the entire truck with the exception of the P7100 injection pump and related parts to convert from the VP44 pump currently on my truck.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Random/IMAG0547.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Random/IMAG0559.jpg

 

This is the ugly bitch that will most likely power the truck the next time it runs, or either be a core for the replacement.

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Random/IMAG0561.jpg

 

The only problem is that I found no fuel in the line on #4 and knew that the truck had sat awhile. The barrel is most likely sticking. Im not excited about working with a 160 pump or dumping much money into it. My plans are for a 13mm pump but I have got over 4k going into this wave of parts with the p-pump swap, cam, head studs, and machine work. This might have to last me until I can dump another 3k on just a pump.

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  • 4 months later...

I have been really busy with kids football, vacation, work, ect. No different than anyone else but I just stuck my truck on the back burner. I don't plan on having it come out until spring anyways. Most of the delay was due to getting the donor truck stripped, parts sold, and getting it out of the shop so I could get back to work on this.

 

I got the head back from the machine shop. Before had a did a little prep to the block before the head stud install. I took a little extra step that is not required and one that not everyone does. This entails bottom tapping the block. In each threaded hole of the block the threads stop a fair distance before the bottom of the hole. Bottom tapping ensures that each stud has more thread contact, fits down in the holes evenly, and allows for no clearance issues with the valve cover.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0587.jpg

 

Since I dumped some money into the head and already had it off I decided to give it a quick paint job. Not really the color I had hoped for but it will do for now. This head is only temporary anyways.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0581.jpg

 

While the head was away I decided to take another step with it and have the cylinders o-ringed.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0618.jpg

 

Shitty pic of the rings.

Edited by I Drive It... It Breaks!
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Another shitty pic of the rings

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0619.jpg

 

I would have taken better pics but I forgot until I was about to set the head on.

 

When I started cleaning up the bowls in the head I quickly realized that my valve seats had some cracking. Basically the head is junk. It could last 4 hours, it could last 4 months. I dropped it off to get it resurfaced and oringed anyways. My plan is to get it through 1 season. Next year the plan will be to get a new head and completely build it with orings, stronger port work, mill the intake off and build a runner style plenum.

 

Using a OEM headgasket for the Orings.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0615.jpg

 

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0622.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0621.jpg

 

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk251/XChris1632X/Toys/Hannah/IMAG0636.jpg

 

Im going to wait to put the rest of the top end together until I get the cam swapped. The cam will be the next thing to get done which will enable me to get to swap the the timing case out. In the next week or so I am going to go ahead and get the cam and tappets pulled so that I can swap the timing case. I have to do the same thing on the donor truck to be able to remove the timing case from it also.

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