wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Been thinking about buying a big gas powered walk behind like central ohio concrete cutting. But those are a pain to move around. I see them at auction all the time going for cheap, thought about asking if you were interested. What do you mean hard to move around? Bad thing is you need a water source with you, either property providd or your own tank. We used 300 gallion which was a real decent amount. I could cut thousands of feet a day and if I timed it right the 300 gallons would last most of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s28/d19sevent2/Concrete_saw.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 That core cut is a great machine, diesel powered. He has a 36" blade on there, try cutting with a 54". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 ....awe look at the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHIEF Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s28/d19sevent2/Concrete_saw.jpg Use that exact saw all the time. You can't hear the turbo Jason, you ever run that one? Thought it would have a little more power than it does.Know you use to be in the biz so. Sam, we might be getting rid of a few of our gas walk behinds here shortly. Know about what type your looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I used that saw quite a bit for a few years. I switched to the quanta saw, much stronger and capable of holding larger blades out of the cut. I was a triple threat I carried all wall saw equipment blades up to 66" including 3 ringsaws, 2 chainsaws and 2 partner saws 1 being flush cut, walk behind with blades up 66", and core drill equipment up to 18". That stuff was standard on my truck everyday. It was much easier on the f650 I drove. That core cut saw was way to ass heavy for what little power it had. The purchase of the gas ringsaw and chainsaw was a godsend for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam1647545489 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Use that exact saw all the time. You can't hear the turbo Jason, you ever run that one? Thought it would have a little more power than it does.Know you use to be in the biz so. Sam, we might be getting rid of a few of our gas walk behinds here shortly. Know about what type your looking for? Let me know what you are getting rid of and we can go from there. I dont need a big one. Maybe just one to run a 24' blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Pomade Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 blade. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGjAYxF8AU4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Let me know what you are getting rid of and we can go from there. I dont need a big one. Maybe just one to run a 24' blade. They are hard to find and getting harder but look for a 35hp walk behind. They are smaller but do really well if you use small blades. Dont go any bigger than 65hp, you wont need it unless your doing thousands of feet or going 8"+ regularly. You can add a scrubber to these or adapt them to run off propane. The newer ones tend to come with scrubbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 So have any of you guys used one of these? http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s28/d19sevent2/033cf829b52a8992cd4087ff15a9311a.jpg I've always wanted to try one out, what are your takes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Yes, I carried that one and 2 hydraulic ones for 7 years. They are expensive to maintain. The bars wear out quickly as do the chains. We charged IIRC $45 for one plunge cut to eliminate overcuts. If you need to cut straight and arent very good you can also buy a track that mounts to a surface. That one needed overhauled twice a year based on my usage. I went through a bar every month as well as 1-2 chains. Keep in mind I have seen guys ruin 2 chains in less than 2 minutes of runtime as well as the bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Yes, I carried that one and 2 hydraulic ones for 7 years. They are expensive to maintain. The bars wear out quickly as do the chains. We charged IIRC $45 for one plunge cut to eliminate overcuts. If you need to cut straight and arent very good you can also buy a track that mounts to a surface. That one needed overhauled twice a year based on my usage. I went through a bar every month as well as 1-2 chains. JESUS... I see them in our Diamondblade catalogs and have just wondered. We overhaul our 760's about once a year, and thats running them like a bitch, I thought our guys were just being hard on them (but we're just cutting paver). What is the cost of a new chain for one of them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Depends, we were buying $1M worth of blades and chains a year, we had a hell of a discount. Our discount was so good we even sold them to Kokosing because they couldnt get them as cheap as we do. My hand saws needed rebuilt every month or 2 depending on what I was doing. I had to change every part I could in the field, sometimes every few days. I carried parts to rebuild everything but the motors 2-3x's over daily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRocket1647545505 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 JESUS... I see them in our Diamondblade catalogs and have just wondered. We overhaul our 760's about once a year, and thats running them like a bitch, I thought our guys were just being hard on them (but we're just cutting paver). What is the cost of a new chain for one of them? IIRC, they are between $7-800 for a cheap one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 No, the max bar size that fit that saw at the time was 14", the chains retailed for for around $4-500, we were paying around $100. Blades are based on the material cut, softer or harder. We bought the best you could buy. I am sure theres a company out there that sold cheaper quality chains for around $300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I know when we buy a case of blades they'll throw in a free saw. But 1 million worth of blades is a lot of cutting. Who did/do you work for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I worked for Ohio Concrete Sawing and Drilling for 11 years until my accident in 09. We had 5 ohio divisions, owned michigan sawing and drilling, owned a company in florida and I believe one in indiana. I was a million a few years ago, with the purchase of the new companies I would say a million and a 1/2 at this point. You can go to their website to see what all we did. Theres a video of chainsawing on the site, although I believe its with the hydraulic saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHIEF Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 So have any of you guys used one of these? http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s28/d19sevent2/033cf829b52a8992cd4087ff15a9311a.jpg I've always wanted to try one out, what are your takes? Used one of these a bunch. 1 day it rolled Up a pre-fab insulated wall and took my eyebrow (almost eye). Got 42 stitches minus some eyebrow afterward. I don't like to talk about it being that was the end of my male modeling career. Sam~ ill get the specs but no bigger tan that, its like 35 hp only good to about 24" in my mind, and I'm sre jason will say the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bahd-ler Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Used one of these a bunch. 1 day it rolled Up a pre-fab insulated wall and took my eyebrow (almost eye). Got 42 stitches minus some eyebrow afterward. I don't like to talk about it being that was the end of my male modeling career. Sam~ ill get the specs but no bigger tan that, its like 35 hp only good to about 24" in my mind, and I'm sre jason will say the same WAIT.... What happened??? :gabe: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) Cutting concrete is dangerous M'kay. Ask me how I know. I know of 2 guys that died, one that was rockerd in the head with a drill down inside a manhole, I have been in the hospital when my hand was cracked and swelled to the size of a grapefruit, almost died of carbon monoxide poisoning twice, and of course we all know my latest injury which terminated my career. And as Shief stated a 35hp saw is good for probably up to a 24" blade, you could use a bigger blade and it will hold it(maybe not out of the cut but you can attach it in the cut) but you wouldnt want to go much bigger or use it all day long. The 35hp saws tend to have a smaller arbor plate size so you actually go deeper with it than the size on a 65hp saw. It would be harder now eo find an original 35hp walk behind. If all your looking to do is have a saw for control joints or light cutting a pushsaw either manually propelled or self propelled is the way to go. You dont go but 5" deep with them but you can always add a blade in the cut to go deeper. Shief pre cast walls are the absolute worst to cut, harder aggregate and when you hit a tension cable, forget about it. Who are you working for now? You should have came over when I was trying to get you on. Ohio concrete is the best around. Edited February 21, 2012 by wnaplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRocket1647545505 Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 No, the max bar size that fit that saw at the time was 14", the chains retailed for for around $4-500, we were paying around $100. Blades are based on the material cut, softer or harder. We bought the best you could buy. I am sure theres a company out there that sold cheaper quality chains for around $300. I could have sworn when I ordered one for a customer a few years back it was around $750. hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 It might have been, depends on what spec you get the diamond segments. A few years back there were only a small handful of companies you could order from. When more people started offer them the prices came way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linc5.0 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 can i have the minute of my life i wasted watching that back please?\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 There's a Bobcat at the end of my driveway right now and I think the key is in it. It looks lonely. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Bobcat.jpg?t=1329928371 BRB. Making my own epic Bobcat video. Like. Boss. :fuckyeah: :lolguy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHIEF Posted March 1, 2012 Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Cutting concrete is dangerous M'kay. Ask me how I know. I know of 2 guys that died, one that was rockerd in the head with a drill down inside a manhole, I have been in the hospital when my hand was cracked and swelled to the size of a grapefruit, almost died of carbon monoxide poisoning twice, and of course we all know my latest injury which terminated my career. And as Shief stated a 35hp saw is good for probably up to a 24" blade, you could use a bigger blade and it will hold it(maybe not out of the cut but you can attach it in the cut) but you wouldnt want to go much bigger or use it all day long. The 35hp saws tend to have a smaller arbor plate size so you actually go deeper with it than the size on a 65hp saw. It would be harder now eo find an original 35hp walk behind. If all your looking to do is have a saw for control joints or light cutting a pushsaw either manually propelled or self propelled is the way to go. You dont go but 5" deep with them but you can always add a blade in the cut to go deeper. Shief pre cast walls are the absolute worst to cut, harder aggregate and when you hit a tension cable, forget about it. Who are you working for now? You should have came over when I was trying to get you on. Ohio concrete is the best around. Not trying to re-up the thread, but was outta town. Yeah we have a couple of those walk behind 35hps, I like using them. But I need to check them out 1st. Jason, yeah it didn't hit a cable. Rode up the insulation foam/concrete in a split second. Was weird. I'm back with Accurate concrete. Some things have changed so I took up an offer. Guy that use to work for us is with them now (Eric), says he's been busy so that's always good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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