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Moving an O2 sensor downstream. Problem?


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So, it's exhaust time on the Subaru. Nothing special needed, just replacing the 10 year old, 150k system with something that doesn't leak.

I'm not buying any pre-made shit, too much money for too little value. I'll be making one.

 

It will be easier to produce with longer down tubes that come together in a Y behind the trans. Right now, they come together in front of the trans, and that is where the O2 is.

 

Will moving the O2 to a slightly cooler spot, possibly with more internal volume, confuse the computer?

 

2002 Outback 2.5 SOHC N/A.

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In theory an O2 sensor's switching will be affected, as in a computer's programming judges the delay of the signal based on how far downstream it is. Now will this actually cause any issues? Likely not, but its dependent on how the computer is set up, and I highly doubt its that precise. So long as it's a heated O2 sensor (most are) I wouldn't worry about it, if its post catalyst in theory it should be the same distance from the catalyst for similar reasons, but again I highly doubt some adjustment will make much difference.
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If the system is sealed (as it should be) no problem w/rich/lean. The only issue should be time to reach operating temp. Being OBD II with a heated sensor, this should not be a problem other than the heater may be "on" longer. No real problem there other than a possibly a somewhat shorter heater life from more use than originally designed.
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why not find a wrx or sti take off for cheap?

A) won't fit, I have no turbo and my car is longer.

B) you underestimate how cheaply I can do an exhaust.

 

 

Shouldn't be a problem, keep the sensor between 11 and 2 oclock, 10 and 3 in worst case. Don't use a solder connection on the signal wires if you're extending the harness.

 

I plan on getting a readily available extension harness. I hate wiring, no way I'm trying to splice anything.

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Pics when your done. I want to see this, it has sparked my interest.

 

Well... look under an H6. I think I'm going to end up mimicking that pretty closely, the gaps I'm following were made for their plates.... no cats though.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96095&d=1296872687

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If its a post cat o2, why replace it with a simulator?

 

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=o2%20simulator&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ao2%20simulator&page=1

 

Its possible to make one yourself with a resistor, just have to research it. This way, no wiring to screw with, no drilling and tapping, just plug it into the harness and zip tie it somewhere safe. The after cat o2 doesn't adjust the F/A, just makes sure the cat is functional so who cares.

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If its a post cat o2, why replace it with a simulator?

 

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=o2%20simulator&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ao2%20simulator&page=1

 

Its possible to make one yourself with a resistor, just have to research it. This way, no wiring to screw with, no drilling and tapping, just plug it into the harness and zip tie it somewhere safe. The after cat o2 doesn't adjust the F/A, just makes sure the cat is functional so who cares.

 

Didn't really have a plan to replace the post-cat o2. Good to know there's an option that won't throw a CEL, though!

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