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Building credit (activity)


Nate1647545505

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Stay the fuck away from online credit reports, esp Experion!!! I get a half dozen of calls for unauthorized charges daily from online credit agencies

 

In reality (and i do collections so i know those people), youre getting calls from people who DID authorize the charges and were too stupid to realize it or that they had to cancel it.

 

:dumb:

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In reality (and i do collections so i know those people), youre getting calls from people who DID authorize the charges and were too stupid to realize it or that they had to cancel it.

 

:dumb:

 

I am with you to a point. There(sp due to beer) is quite a bit of find out your credit score this one time and complete this form to complete the process or to even receive a gift. A good percentage of online credit score websites take advantage of people giving their credit score information in order for a freebie while being thrown off by misleading promises. The basic approach is to sneak in an occasional transactions that the buyer will not notice. Even if 80% call in demanding a refund, it still leaves 20% of profit.

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if your credit is already in the 700 range, you'd be better off showing some consistency. when you're buying a house, they always say do not do ANYTHING that might raise a red flag to a financier.

 

that includes trying to apply for auto finance, credit cards, etc. I'm no expert but I'd also assume that means you don't want to start messing around trying to "game" the system for an extra 10 made-up credit points.

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This can be tricky too.

Real banks don't loan at 0% so I'm assuming it had to be Toyota financial.

 

Somewhere in the fine print you probably gave up a rebate of somewhere around $1500 to receive 0%.

 

That isn't 0%,.... That's paying $1500 in interest right up front.

 

I'm not saying it wasn't the right move. I'm saying it depends on the circumstance.

 

I took 0% over a $700 rebate on my Kubota tractor. But I ran the calculations and over 5 years on 14k even my piddly ass CD money earned more than the $700 true cost to finance. So I kept my money in the bank and used theirs.

 

I didn't allow them to take the rebate. The wife is the money hawk she was writing it down and told him what the payment would be before he was done. It was through Toyota. You're correct, they try to trick people and say well we can get you in this car that's 25,000 for 23,000, then you wonder were the rebate is and they say oh we keep the rebate so you get this price.

I bought corolla S, a few months after all the bad press. My 2011 Mustang through Ford, I was able to get 1.9 I think. That was as low as Ford had at that time. I had to threaten to leave because, they kept trying to get me to change my payment (lower) by taking a higher interest rate . That is the second car I bought with Ford Motor Credit. The only place I had trouble with not using a bank was with Honda when I bought my CBR, it was Honda credit is what they said then the bill started coming in Hbsc or something like that and the rate was not what it was suppose to be. So, I went down to the bank and took a loan at their rate.

 

I like getting new cars, but you have to know and watch the paperwork closely to ensure the numbers match what was said, I always work price of purchase first then discount and rebates.

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if your credit is already in the 700 range, you'd be better off showing some consistency. when you're buying a house, they always say do not do ANYTHING that might raise a red flag to a financier.

 

that includes trying to apply for auto finance, credit cards, etc. I'm no expert but I'd also assume that means you don't want to start messing around trying to "game" the system for an extra 10 made-up credit points.

 

The original plan was to look for a beater and take out a loan and repay the entire amount next day. I decided to buy my M as cash as I didn't want to be paying for something that I rarely drive.

 

I have a few store cards and visa/mc/amex that I may dust off and start using

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The original plan was to look for a beater and take out a loan and repay the entire amount next day. I decided to buy my M as cash as I didn't want to be paying for something that I rarely drive.

 

I have a few store cards and visa/mc/amex that I may dust off and start using

 

That's not a bad idea, revolving credit is something lenders like to see; basically to them it says "i trust myself to make responsible financial decisions"

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My 2011 Mustang through Ford, I was able to get 1.9 I think. That was as low as Ford had at that time. I had to threaten to leave because, they kept trying to get me to change my payment (lower) by taking a higher interest rate .

 

This is exactly what I mean.

 

You lost a Rebate to get 1.9%. I know this for two reasons.

 

1. I have worked for Ford in one area or another for the past 8 years. I can asure you they have never had a standard rate that low. They do however, always run that rate when you give up a certain amount of rebate.

ex. $4500 rebate with cash or standard finance OR $1000 rebate with 1.9 or 0%

 

2. If the payment was LOWER for the same amount of months through a regular bank and you took the higher payment, just to say you got 1.9%,... you lost out.

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