mustangman2011 Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Car just randomly started dying after driving it. You have to let it sit for a while before it will even turn over. Ran the codes P 0335 came up for crankshaft position sensor. The Haynes book isnt very good. I have a few questions for you. Is this common for this car? Where exactly is it located at? How easy is it to do? Replace and go? Haynes mentioned needs a factory tool to reset it after it is replaced. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 No don't see it very often on those, first thing I'd check is the wiring to it. You may check out these directions I pulled from the only bulliten that comes up for that code. Complaint of intermittent vehicle cranks/long crank but will not start: 1. Check that the ground stud nuts on the radiator support are tight. The terminal should not rotate. 2. Check that the main engine ground (located at the rear of the block above the transaxle) is tight. (G105) You will want to also make sure the terminal crimp is tight to the wire. 3. Remove the UBEC (Document ID # 1351208) and check that all the connectors underneath the UBEC are locked into position. 4. Reinstall the UBEC 5. For 4 cylinder VIN code F vehicles, check that the latest calibration for the vehicle loaded into the PCM 6. If the complaint is a long crank and then the engine starts, but runs roughly for a few seconds, check to see if the fuel pressure drops off when the engine is not running. If the pressure does drop off replace the fuel module assembly. Complaint of intermittent no crank/ turn the key and nothing happens: 1. Check that G201/ G203 and G305 are secure. 2. Check high speed serial data circuit. (Document ID # 1465871) The connectors at the modules do not need to bebn removed from the module. The lock on each connector should be unlocked and then push the connector onto the module and then relock the connector at each module. 3. It the customer comments that there is no click or only one click noise heard when the key is turned. Then check G105 (the heavy engine ground located at the rear of the engine). The fastener may appear to be secure, but the ring terminal under the nut could be free to move. If this ground is secure then replace the UBEC. If PCM code P1682 or SIR code B1370 is set, replace the UBEC. Then given what you said you can do this step 1. Measure the voltage from the 12-volt reference circuit of the CKP sensor and the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with a DMM while disconnecting the sensors one at a time. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems. 2. If the voltage changes when one of the above components are disconnected, replace the component. Refer to the appropriate replacement procedure. If the wires aren't damaged to the sensor, you could be lazy and just throw a sensor in it, but since this isn't such a common issue I would check these few things. There are more steps to the flow chart but this is a good place to start, the rest is mostly circuit testing. Hope this helps, see what you come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangman2011 Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Thanks for the info Scott. I will definitely check the wiring too when I get into it. The only weird thing is it only does the not start issue after it cuts off after driving. Literally it wont even turn over for a minute or two. It normally cuts off getting off the highway. Any other time it starts up fine. Where is the sensor at exactly? under/by crank pulley or the other side of the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 Crank sensor is on the back of the engine in the middle right above the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOZZER Posted September 24, 2012 Report Share Posted September 24, 2012 I had one doing this last month at my shop. The wiring under the shield wrap to the sensor was burnt. The shielding held the heat in and cooked them. You can see the wiring by jacking up and removing the pass front wheel. Look to the right of the axle shaft by the trans and you'll see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangman2011 Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 Well my friend took it to somebody and they replaced the sensor. It is still doing the same thing but they said the code didnt come back. I had read before that after the sensor is replaced it has to be reset using a factory tool/sensor. Is this true? What exactly is the procedure? I have acess to a tech 2. thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 25, 2012 Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 Well my friend took it to somebody and they replaced the sensor. It is still doing the same thing but they said the code didnt come back. I had read before that after the sensor is replaced it has to be reset using a factory tool/sensor. Is this true? What exactly is the procedure? I have acess to a tech 2. thanks in advance It's just a crank variation relearn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangman2011 Posted September 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2012 Thanks if this wasnt done what would happen etc? I told them everything that needed to be done/checked etc but they didnt do that obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangman2011 Posted September 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Any of you guys do work on the side. I guess their relative has been tearing the car apart and is over his head. I have told him everything mentioned above but some people dont listen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 To be honest I hate working on cars after work anymore. If you get desperate you can have it brought in to me at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangman2011 Posted September 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Ok got ya. What dealer are you at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRTurbo04 Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Ok got ya. What dealer are you at? dave gill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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