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Just in time for nice weather!


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Kerry talks about completing a 442 "clone" conversion.

 

I recommend:

1) Do peg-leg burnouts at every stoplight and corner-turn until the tires get sketchy

2) Rotate front tires to rear.

3) Repeat peg-leg treatment

4) Sell wheels with bald tires, or save them

5) Purchase AR 500's with RWL tires :megusta::megusta:

http://www.carid.com/images/american-racing/wheels/ar-vn500-black-polished-ford-mustang-2.jpg

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Thanks for all the info, Kerry.

 

I have a fair amount of knowledge on the car and 442s in general, and have been doing a lot of research recently knowing that I would be buying the car from my buddy. I've lost count of how many olds shows and trips to Carlisle I've taken over the years for this car and for another friend who has a '67 442. I have no plans to deviate from an Oldsmobile powertrain at this point, so I may eventually look into adding a correct 400 cu in engine to the mix. The Cutlass S rear end is another weak point with it only being a 10 bolt and (from what I remember) this one was equipped with and open 2.73 rear end. That may need to change pretty soon too.

 

I'm now really starting to research more on the suspension portion of the car as well. The bad thing about this frame is that we had to add some patches back when we did the restoration 20 years ago, and if any real HP will be added, the frame will need to be really worked on or replaced. I've already began searches for A body frames. You can buy box kits for hardtop frames for fairly cheap, so that gives me more options in finding one at a decent price.

 

Really looking forward to just spending some time on the car, freshening it up and driving her this summer.

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Thanks for all the info, Kerry.

 

I have a fair amount of knowledge on the car and 442s in general, and have been doing a lot of research recently knowing that I would be buying the car from my buddy. I've lost count of how many olds shows and trips to Carlisle I've taken over the years for this car and for another friend who has a '67 442. I have no plans to deviate from an Oldsmobile powertrain at this point, so I may eventually look into adding a correct 400 cu in engine to the mix. The Cutlass S rear end is another weak point with it only being a 10 bolt and (from what I remember) this one was equipped with and open 2.73 rear end. That may need to change pretty soon too.

 

I've been messing with these cars for over 20 years, the one thing I find out about them is that for such a simple car there is always something new to learn. If i am stating anything you already know or is obvious, sometimes I do that because someone else may be reading this thread with an A-body and may find the info useful, so don't take it personally.

 

If you are under 400hp and 450ft lbs, nothing wrong with a 10 bolt. Unlike chevys BOP 10 bolts have bolt in axle retainers which makes them slightly stronger than the chevy equivalent (BOPs are different from 8.2" 10 bolts in other ways as well). Here is some info on GM BOP rear axles:

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2013/01/01/hmn_tips3.html

 

http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/10bolt-tech.htm

 

From my own experience I have run the stock 10 bolt in my GTO since 1997 with 3.55 gears and an auburn posi unit and it works great. Car made 365hp on a chassis dyno in 1998 and I have run the car on slicks at now defunct Westhampton drag strip without a single whimper. I also drove it like clay described (except mine weren't peg legs - posi baby!!!) away from every stop light. Biggest issue I have had with the car is the rear drum shoes sticking to the lining when the car sits. 3.55 is almost the Goldilocks ratio for these cars - not screaming on the highway but not a slouch at a stoplight either.

 

if you are going to swap the 350 for another olds motor - 455s are way cheaper than 400s - easier to make power with too. But you will need the TH400 trans.

 

I'm now really starting to research more on the suspension portion of the car as well. The bad thing about this frame is that we had to add some patches back when we did the restoration 20 years ago, and if any real HP will be added, the frame will need to be really worked on or replaced. I've already began searches for A body frames. You can buy box kits for hardtop frames for fairly cheap, so that gives me more options in finding one at a decent price.

 

I've had to do that too - they rot right at that front body mount where the fire wall is because that is where the water drains down from the cowl. If it is patched right you should be good for a while.

 

for what you would pay for a stock boxed frame, there are plenty of places like Art Morrison, and the Rod shop that could sell you a good start to a pro-touring frame.

 

One thing you should be careful about with A-body frames is starting in 1968 GM started stamping a vin into the frames. It is not a full vin, just a partial with GM Division code, model year, assembly plant, last 6 of serial number. But it is enough for a cop to find out if the car your frame came from is stolen.

 

http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af17/2014photoalbum/TechAndScans/frame_zps2cecceb5.jpg

 

Even if you do no other mods to the car, I do recommend the front tube a-arms and front suspension rebuild as it just gets rid of the flaws in the stock suspension anyway that makes the car drive better overall. In the wheels department I am just a huge fan of old school cragar s/s wheels if you aren't going to do something stock. Something like that with a beefy 60 or 70 series tire just screams "I am a blunt instrument of speed from an era before safety!!!"

 

Really looking forward to just spending some time on the car, freshening it up and driving her this summer.

 

This is the best idea.

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