Zx2guy19 Posted December 13, 2015 Report Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hi all, Picked up the Evo a few months ago and haven't had the best of luck so far. Here's a chain of events that led to the parking, and now potential teardown of this beast: 3 weeks ago I was beating the car pretty good (with Steve-O)- the dipstick blew out and I lost quite a bit of oil. Apparently it's a common problem, but I've since remedied with a Buschur dipstick spring. Parked the car and did the following: Battery Relocate Catch Can/PCV Delete Oil Change Started the car yesterday and it was ROUGH...really struggling to stay running, heavy exhaust smell and ultimately, oil blowing out of the exhaust/burning. I walked to the back of the car and found this: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3592_zpslo6htcbc.jpg Here are pictures of the catch can install- 99.9% sure everything is correct: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3597_zpshfuj6pls.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3596_zpswgkmxpyh.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3599_zpsegvht8iy.jpg Plugs: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3598_zpsorhsfqz7.jpg Gauge readings- oil pressure: 27 , vac: -15, A/f: bouncin between 13/15 http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3601_zpsskf6mfsu.png Videos of it running: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/th_MOV_9987_zpseacjmviq.mp4 Revved it and built boost and this was the result: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3600_zpsjktbdqck.jpg The car is heavily modded, stroked to a 2.3L, Evo 9 turbo, etc. Steve, myself and a few Evo friends tend to agree the turbo seals have given- does anyone disagree? Also, for the Evo/4g63 folks, is there a turbo that will require no modification to my existing setup that is an upgrade for under $750? It's internal wastegate and I'm not wanting to do a full tear down, so as little modification as possible. Thoughts? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammit Charlie Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Sounds possible, I would pull it to verify though that the turbo is pushing oil. It's been a while since I've looked at them, but I don't think you'll find a replacement for <$750 without it being a take off. Could you have the turbo rebuilt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Its probably running so fucking rich you've washed the piston rings out of it. Make sure the right plugs are in it and that they are gapped correctly. What are the AFR's at WOT and crusing? Idle should hold steady once the car is warmed up unless it has some huge cams in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 The turbo can be rebuilt for around $400 which is the likeliest option. But if I could spend $300-$400 more and get an upgrade without having to modify anything, I'd be game. Grant- I didn't drive it for fear of fucking something up. Idle does stabilize after warming up but I'm trying not to let it run too long. The car does run very rich and I planned to get it tuned in a few weeks. Should I compression test before pulling turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Do a compression and leak down test before you go any further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Gump 9 Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Recheck your catch can hoses. I'm sure on of the line have to go to the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Do a compression and leak down test before you go any further. This. If results come back good just wait to drive it until it is tuned. As far as the turbo seals just pull off the charge pipe at the compressor housing outlet and check for oil there, that is a good start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 I'm not sure how to do a leak down test...I do know how to do a compression test though. I did pull the intake pipe, no oil and no turbo shaft play. The charge pipes did have oil in them though. Good idea on pulling catch can lines...maybe there's a blockage...would that cause back pressure like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 I'm sure on of the line have to go to the intake. Start here. It is CRUCIAL to have the excess crankcase pressure being draun from a turbo motor unless you have messive vents. If you removed your PCV, you have to run a line to the intake to keep things kosher. Trust me, it makes a huge difference. I just bought a Colt for dirt cheap beacue the owner thought the turbo or engine was bad due to smoke on decel. He just had his catch can hooked up wrong! :dumb: http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/pcv_max_press_relief_e-png.135969/ You could have fixed that dipstick with a quick pintch on the tube BTW. As for the issue of the black exhasut wetness, there is a 99.5% chance that is just black water. Your car is showing signed of running very rich. This will quickly coat the exhaust in black soot. On cold start up-the pipe will form condensation inside the pipe and it will look like that wne it exits the rear. Trust me-if oil was making it that far back you would smoke out the neighborood before you left there driveway. As for the turbo being bad-there is not one sign of it pictured in this thread. Pull the intake, check for shaft play. Pull the outlet pipe and check for oil. If both of those checks look good-there is a 97% chance the turbo is not hurt. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Thanks so much JP. This probably sounds dumb, but should I just run the line that's on the back of the VC to where I plugged my PCV nipple? If that's the case, I'll do that tonight, change the plugs and see how she runs. Then it's off to SlowMo so I quit fucking around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Came to post what JP did. The dipstick blowing out is not an issue itself, it's telling you there is another issue that needs fixed. springing it is only trying to mask the problem. FK your catch can setup. A few years ago on my 1G, I had a similar catch can and was blowing the dipstick out, oil all over, oil leaks from the pan and a few other places. I decided to go with a calan catch can, two -10an's from the VC to the can, then one -12an from the can to the intake pipe right before the manifold. Instantly stopped blowing the dipstick out and all my oil leaks went away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Thanks so much JP. This probably sounds dumb, but should I just run the line that's on the back of the VC to where I plugged my PCV nipple? If that's the case, I'll do that tonight, change the plugs and see how she runs. Then it's off to SlowMo so I quit fucking around. IMO you still want a PVC ran to the intake manifold if possible. If you don't want to or that's not an option, I would add a line from the catch can to the intake of the turbo to keep the vacuum in the can as much as possible. As RC mentioned-having this wrong will cause all sorts of issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 IMO you still want a PVC ran to the intake manifold if possible. If you don't want to or that's not an option, I would add a line from the catch can to the intake of the turbo to keep the vacuum in the can as much as possible. As RC mentioned-having this wrong will cause all sorts of issues! Sounds to me like tonight I'm going to move the line to the back of the VC to my intake pipe and reinstall the PCV system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Sounds to me like tonight I'm going to move the line to the back of the VC to my intake pipe and reinstall the PCV system. That would be best for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Awaiting magical thread update tomorrow morning... *fingurth crossthed* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Awaiting magical thread update tomorrow morning... *fingurth crossthed* You and me both brotha. That would be best for now. Steve-O is confusing the shit out of me- I have a 2 port catch can (I have another if needed but don't want to use it if I don't have to). Just to confirm, one final time since my fucking pea brain (or his, lol) is hesitant: 2 ports- 1 port goes to right side of VC (as it already is) and the other port goes to intake pipe, before filter. Reinstall the PCV system (luckily I kept it) and call it a day. It's that simple, right? Fuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 You and me both brotha. 2 ports- 1 port goes to right side of VC (as it already is) and the other port goes to intake pipe, before filter. Reinstall the PCV system (luckily I kept it) and call it a day. It's that simple, right? Fuck. Yes. If you want to improve venting under boost when the PVC is closed-you would simply add more vents/increase the line size from the VC to the Can, and increase the size of the line from the can to the intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Edumacate yourself. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/jacks-pcv Good info there. My system is a little simpler, but very similar. Also look up paul volks setup. Mine is nearly identical to his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GGEvo Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Sounds like you have an excess of crankcase pressure and everyone else covered that. If its a stock 9 turbo and you want it rebuilt look up Christopher Robbins and his shop Turbos-R-Us on FB , a few friends have had nothing but good things to say about him. He can do a 20G upgrade on the stock turbo https://www.facebook.com/groups/400701626731882/ And if you want to spend the next few days reading, here's some more info on crankcase pressure http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/525004-anyone-has-crankcase-pressure-issues.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted December 14, 2015 Report Share Posted December 14, 2015 Edumacate yourself. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/jacks-pcv Good info there. My system is a little simpler, but very similar. Also look up paul volks setup. Mine is nearly identical to his. Yup. Like I said, the PCV works- and stock you have a line running to the intake, just no catch can in between. The only way to truly make it better-is to add more lines! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Swapped everything around tonight- 1) Reinstalled the PCV hose to IM and back of VC http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3615_zpsbot6xv2b.jpg 2) Moved line from back of VC to pipe on intake http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3613_zpsjjcyz0sh.jpg 3) Inspected CC and CC lines to make sure no clogs http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y225/chopperman19/IMG_3614_zpsmp0vgzwg.jpg Car won't start. Cranks, started for about 1 second and instantly died. Now it just cranks and cranks and cranks. What the fuck...one thing- the plugs are pretty beat up. I don't have any to swap tonight, but it ran yesterday (granted...pretty rough), and now it won't even start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miller Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I bet the plugs are just soaked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Yeah, I'll change those Wednesday. Looks like copper does well in these, probably going to pick up some BPR8ES tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zx2guy19 Posted December 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Ordered plugs today (and some Moog tie rods) from RockAuto so they'll be here for this weekend. I guess we'll see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Alex- Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Not trying to cut your car down, but now might be a good time to clean up that rust on the motor mount bracket before it gets worse. I'd say fresh plugs will get it going again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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