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CLEETUS V: '01 Sibberado


zeitgeist57

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  • 1 month later...
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So, I've been driving the truck a LOT this summer...pretty much whenever I need to haul something before/after work, or even when the weather wasn't looking too good for top-down driving in the BMW. Aside from the long-cranking starting/highway hesitation issue that seems to be fuel-related, she's been a great runner. Just over 79k miles...

 

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I had the truck up to do a front spring swap for the 2/4 drop, and realized this was going to be far more involved than anticipated. Decided to replace the headlights instead!

 

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The factory headlights polished fine, but stayed yellow and clouded back over quickly. Also, I broke a tab on the $22 eBay chrome parking lights trying to replace a bulb...plus I didn't like the chrome as much...so time for some EBAY HEADLIGHTS! :lol:

 

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Not bad for $64 shipped! Spoooooky flooooating truuuck......

 

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Black housings, clear lenses and reflectors...ties in the front end much better, methinks.

 

Next up after a few small fixes (u-joints, rattling flexplate) is the MaxTrac 2/4 drop, followed by rocker rust repair and maybe some light bodywork/paint polishing.

Edited by zeitgeist57
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LMK What you find on that lowering kit install. I'm looking at going with a 4/6 on mine.

 

https://www.suspensionsuperstore.com

 

2/4 drop was less than $300 shipped. Spring front, axle-flip rear. I would’ve liked to use 2” dropped shackles but they require 17” or larger wheels and I’m using my 16”s for winter.

 

Just replaced u-joints...little smoother ride!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Steve, nothing yet. Been a fun but busy summer; mostly house stuff. Had the exterior painted over the last month and had to redo a screened porch, wood trim, etc...just resealed the driveway as well. I'll take this oppty to cover what I want to still do to the truck:

- Front brakes - Calipers/Rotors (have parts)

- Flexplate rattle

- Drop it 2/4 (have parts)

- Trim exhaust - I don't like the huge pipe over the rear axle...will make a dump ahead of the rear wheel, maybe swap in a Magnaflow muffler.

- Rust repair on rockers

- Bedliner on lower rockers, bed rails over the bedliner

- Try to do something with the paint.

- POLISH THE WHEELS

- In the fall - look at getting some winter wheels/tires. Maybe used?

 

I'm not into social media (new FB pages, etc), but at the same time I'm not registered on any GMT800 forums. I have been YouTubing fixes and mods, of which there are a billion vids for these trucks...not much for the V6. Or at least, no "free" mods worth doing to this thing. Googling usually pulls up pages on forums/websites that help give me answers to fixes and maintenance.

 

Great truck. Aside from dings/scratches and little niggles it has been a really nice hauler, radio & A/C are great, and I really love the way the front end turned out with simple and cheap mods. Definitely excited to see it dropped! :)

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Performancetrucks.net is the best forum for these trucks. There are write ups and information on how to do everything and links to vendors that sell whatever you want to do. If you search the forum you will find lots of people that have done what you are planning to do. It’s the truck side of LS1tech.
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  • 1 month later...

Since August, I've definitely been using - and still enjoying - this truck. No new problems have popped up and it's a reliable cruiser/hauler with A/C; about all I can ask for from a truck during summertime in Ohio.

 

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Lotsa hauling - scrap metal, yard waste, furniture

 

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Father/daughter camping trip. Guess who gets the bikes when my friend has a Mercedes SUV? :lol:

 

 

 

Much love to Mike (dq driver) for 2-step polishing this thing. I was hoping to bring a little shine back to the red paint, but the results are pretty amazing! Note the tape line through the old fleet-truck fender numbers. :eek: More to come on that, once I replace the rusty rockers and add some touch-up paint to areas that need it.

 

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I promise some more updates as I get some of the aesthetics taken care of!

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  • 6 months later...

Realized it's been a while since the last update.

 

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Been sitting on some new front brakes since I bought the truck back in Jan '18...

 

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I've also been sitting on the drop kit since last year, but unfortunately I wasn't able to seperate the spindle from the lower ball joint. I'm ordering new tie rods, lower ball joints, upper a-arms with joints, and sway-bar end links just to renew everything in the front end. Put it back together and will tackle the lowering kit again when the parts come in.

 

 

Had the opportunity to pick up a camper for scrap, so I quickly ordered the hide-away hitch.

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What happens when the hitch ball doesn't go far enough in the receiver for the pin?

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FIXED :lol:

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Also replaced the fuel pump/sending unit earlier this year. Even when the gauge says empty, there's a few pounds of fuel sloshing in that 29-gal tank. Straightforward but a heck of a job to do solo.

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She's got years of dirt and rocks thrown up in the crevices!

 

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Much better. The fuel pump 100% repaired the slow-start and highway hesitation problems. I didn't take a picture but the filter sock at the end of the fuel pump looked DISGUSTING. Should flow better for years to come!

 

Runs really well now. I also repaired the "TOW/HAUL" button (common problem where an orange wire breaks off near the steering column from wear) on the shifter stalk which holds gears longer...feels much better for acceleration. I do love a manual but this 4L60 shifts great behind the V6 and I'm happy with the performance.

 

Rust repair, lowering kit, wheels going back on soon! I know it's been almost a year but I've had a lot of other good things...will play catch-up with the Silverado now that the weather is good!

Edited by zeitgeist57
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  • 2 weeks later...

So...I received the Detroit Axle kit last week that includes new upper control arms (with ball joint), lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, and sway bar end links.

 

This weekend will be the 4th time I've started/stopped this job since the beginning of May. I literally have tried rental ball joint separators, my air chisel with a pickle-fork...nothing has seperated these ball joints from the spindles.

 

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Then, when I decided to just remove the control arms altogether to press out the joints, I had a hell of a time with the lower ball-joint rivets. It's going to take forever to drill out. See this article from the "Practical Enthusiast" who's YT videos I follow as well. It's an appropriate measurement of the difficulty of these bolt-in ball joints.

 

https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-replace-the-worst-type-of-ball-joints-in-t-1820377993

 

On Tuesday night, I finally got one of the lowering springs on the LF, only to realize there's no way I'd be able to do the RF spring. I had to quit halfway through one side just so I could put the truck back together to pick up some mulch. Ran some errands yesterday with it leaning to one side. :lol:

 

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Looking forward to spending more than 3-4hours an evening after the kids go to bed but not-too-much-past-midnight-for-air-tools TO GET THE FRONT END LOWERED!

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Sounds about right. I'm not looking forward to our C4 front suspension rebuild either. In theory it's easy, but in practice it usually fights you. We have riveted upper ball joints too. I think I might just find a machine shop to drill them out.
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Sounds about right. I'm not looking forward to our C4 front suspension rebuild either. In theory it's easy, but in practice it usually fights you. We have riveted upper ball joints too. I think I might just find a machine shop to drill them out.

 

Instead of drilling all the way, I'm going to drill through the head enough then use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel to slot the heads, before air-chiseling them off. Then use a punch to drive the rivets out. Sounds like that's the quicker (if not dirtier) way of getting the old lower balljoints out.

 

You need to be more careful as the C4 suspension arms (front) are cast aluminum if memory serves me correctly.

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Instead of drilling all the way, I'm going to drill through the head enough then use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel to slot the heads, before air-chiseling them off.

 

You need to be more careful as the C4 suspension arms (front) are cast aluminum if memory serves me correctly.

 

You are correct. And the only drill I have at the moment is a battery powered hand drill. If I had a drill press, I'd probably just do them myself. I also just don't want the hassle right now, too much else to do.

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You know when I come across GM’s riveted on ball joints, a chisel bit in my air hammer knocks the heads right off, then switching to a punch bit I drive them out. Takes all of 5-10 minutes. Of course if you have a weak air hammer you’ll be there all day. I have pickle forks for my air hammer too and have never had ball joints I can’t get apart.

 

Cheap tools and weak air supplies won’t get you anywhere in these situations. Have fun beating on it.

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You know when I come across GM’s riveted on ball joints, a chisel bit in my air hammer knocks the heads right off, then switching to a punch bit I drive them out. Takes all of 5-10 minutes. Of course if you have a weak air hammer you’ll be there all day. I have pickle forks for my air hammer too and have never had ball joints I can’t get apart.

 

Cheap tools and weak air supplies won’t get you anywhere in these situations. Have fun beating on it.

 

That's fair. I bought one of Harbor Freight's "Earthquake XT" air impact guns and I have NOT been a fan. Using it makes me wish I knew where to go to have my old Craftsman air impact rebuilt.

 

Credit to us old guys stepping up our bitching game, Scott: it's jobs like this (where I'm going in circles trying to fix something but still have to use the vehicle) that make me question why I'm still doing this stuff, not just paying a shop to do it. I know I'll feel better once it's fixed.

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Have fun beating on it.

 

...and beat on it, I did.

 

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Started Friday afternoon, with breaks for family/sporting events. Stopped at 1:30am on Sunday. Can't remember a worse job than drilling/banging out lower ball joints. That job

Was.

The.

Worst.

 

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I may expound more on my frustrations another day, but suffice it to say what I lack in professional tools (per Scott's observations), I made up for in grunt and tenacity...and my shoulders/elbows/hands are paying for it today. :)

 

Got new control arms in, inner/outer tie rod ends (tore a boot on the steering rack...visited the 24hr AutoZone on W. Broad last night) and rebuilt/painted the lower control arm with the ball joint and sway bar end links. Looking forward to getting the brakes on and bled in the next day or so. Then.....gotta do the rear!

 

Bonus pics of my little guy working on his go-kart <3

 

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I hope “doing the rear” just means you bought new leaf springs, shackles, bolts, u-bolts, and you’re just going to remove it with a sawzall.

 

And I thought I was sweating all weekend building an engine, I’m sure you took a beating yourself. Sure felt more like summer then spring.

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I hope “doing the rear” just means you bought new leaf springs, shackles, bolts, u-bolts, and you’re just going to remove it with a sawzall.

 

And I thought I was sweating all weekend building an engine, I’m sure you took a beating yourself. Sure felt more like summer then spring.

 

McGaughey's rear lowering kit, so no leaf springs. Will need to remove and replace rear leaf spring hanger bracket on the frame...will need more rivets destroyed. :no: New spring/axle perches and bolts but I'll have to check the hardware to see if it comes with U-bolts...I'm guessing I'll have to order them. Good call, Scott... EDIT: Looks like AutoZone has the u-bolts in stock. :thumbup:

 

YouTube/forum posts be like "Just grind off the rivet heads and pop'em out!" F*** THAT NOISE. I **mangled** these control arms with an air chisel for a few hours. Worst job since building my carport back in 2017. Agreed with the weather; it makes all of this work worth it since I'm outdoors (or at least in the garage with the door opened).

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