BuckeyeROC Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 (edited) Maybe a newer rack? Looks like the early 90s cars might be male edit: 93-95 Thanks man! Yes, and no. LOL. Barely made out a part number on the rack, 26008290. Comes up as an 88-92 Vette, however, looking online it looks like this rack SHOULD have female inner tie rods, too. Still looking... Edited June 4, 2019 by BuckeyeROC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 (edited) Spent a few hours researching online and a bunch of time at some parts stores, nothing. Although I THINK I at least know the proper thread size on both ends of the inner tie rod and the length I need. I used that info on Moog's site to find Moog-ev343, which oddly enough happen to fit a 97-07 Vette. So we have an 86 Vette with a an 88-92 Vette steering rack that was rebuilt weird, and I'm about to try 97-07 Vette inner tie rods. Edited June 5, 2019 by BuckeyeROC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Versluis Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 Great work! Thank you. Hopefully these work. If not, I might have to get a new steering rack, I just don't know what else might work if these don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted June 5, 2019 Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 Sigh. I bought the Moog #EV124's, per the Moog website for a 1986 Corvette, which are female. However, the stock inner tie rods are male. So now I'm trying to figure out why Moog sold me lesbian parts and what I actually need here. SCISSOR ME TIMBERS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2019 SCISSOR ME TIMBERS LOL. Like I said in chat, I felt like Tone Loc in "Funky Cold Medina". I expected a female inner tie rod and a male tie rod popped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted June 6, 2019 Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 *SPROING* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2019 Got the crapped out AC compressor out tonight (nice of GM to feed the fuel lines through the AC bracket) and the delete pulley is in. Still have some things to button up (hoses and such) and clean up, but this is the current situation in the pics. The delete pulley is the same size as the compressor pulley and we put the old belt on to make sure it was going to work, so we ordered a new stock sized AC Delco belt off Amazon tonight. At least the belt is easy. The new tie rods should be here tomorrow. We'll attempt to put those in this weekend. 24 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr 23 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2019 The inner tie rods came today. Moog-EV343's from a 97-07 Vette, among some other cars. I think we have a winner. Length looks good and everything threads into place. New on the left, old on the right 25 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 Spent all day getting the front suspension completely back together and everything torqued to spec. A few bolts were really fighting to go back in. One on the sway bar end link. Then the front bolt on the passenger upper control arm, for clearance I had to completely loosen the AC bracket, which we just put back together the other day, I hate having to do things twice. But the front suspension is all buttoned up. Going to put the new front rotors and pads on tomorrow, I ran out of light with the power outage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2019 And the front suspension rebuild is completely finished, along with new front rotors and pads. The wheels are back on and the car is now back on the ground. Waiting for the new belt to come on Tuesday, then will schedule an alignment. 30 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr 32 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I see C5 front brakes fitment potential Where is it going to be aligned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 I see C5 front brakes fitment potential Where is it going to be aligned? Haha, no C5 brakes planned. I have to keep reining myself in and reminding myself that this will be a teen's daily driver. For example, it was really tough to put the calipers back in without shining them up or painting them. Unsure. Thinking either Lucore or North End Wrench or Firestone with Red Beard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Have today off so I putzed around on the Vette. -Rerouted some of the plug wires and bought some wire separators to hold them right. -Cleaned up all the pulleys and got the new belt on. -Noticed the power steering pump pulley wobbled a little so I straightened that out. -Wrapped the driver's side wire harness sitting on top of the valve cover/head with some heat shield. -Have a coolant leak now under the passenger side of the radiator. Going to check it out another day. Hopefully just a loose line or petcock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Looking good!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Looking good!!! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Well, looked under the radiator, all lines and petcock seem dry. Going to have to take it out and check, crap. Another day. Also confirmed my suspicion about the knock sensor being broken. The part the harness attaches to is cracked off. Not throwing a code though, but barely hanging on. Ordered a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 Check the cowl area for debris when you got time. Make sure the drains (rubber bellows) are clear and the hole in the bottom is unobstructed. My '85 also had a relay mounted in one of drain paths, so I put a spacer to keep it away. It might not be the case with an '86. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 Check the cowl area for debris when you got time. Make sure the drains (rubber bellows) are clear and the hole in the bottom is unobstructed. My '85 also had a relay mounted in one of drain paths, so I put a spacer to keep it away. It might not be the case with an '86. Thanks man, will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Well tonight absolutely sucked. Pulled the radiator easy enough, no issues, easiest thing we've done yet on this car. Popped the coolant plug on the driver's side of the engine block and let it drain. Go to take out the knock sensor on the passenger side of the block to let the coolant drain and it shears off, leaving the thread stuck in the block. Like I said above, the knock sensor was broken and needed replaced, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted June 15, 2019 Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Well tonight absolutely sucked. Pulled the radiator easy enough, no issues, easiest thing we've done yet on this car. Popped the coolant plug on the driver's side of the engine block and let it drain. Go to take out the knock sensor on the passenger side of the block to let the coolant drain and it shears off, leaving the thread stuck in the block. Like I said above, the knock sensor was broken and needed replaced, too.Hate to hear this, but don't get discouraged! The progress you guys have made so far is inspiring. It makes me feel like I should get off my lazy ass and finish some of the projects I've put off. I hope to do projects like this with my girls when they are old enough. What's left of the knock sensor? Enough to get ahold of, or maybe get something along the lines of an easy out into?? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2019 Hate to hear this, but don't get discouraged! The progress you guys have made so far is inspiring. It makes me feel like I should get off my lazy ass and finish some of the projects I've put off. I hope to do projects like this with my girls when they are old enough. What's left of the knock sensor? Enough to get ahold of, or maybe get something along the lines of an easy out into?? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk I appreciate this post more than you can know, thank you. We're going to try to find someone to weld a nut on the thread, I'm not sure I trust an Easy Out for this one. Also, I didn't post this last night, but I discovered our brand new upper ball joint boots were torn when we went to grease some things. At this point, trying to figure out why this happened. PST sent me the wrong sway bar bushings originally, I don't know if they sent the wrong upper ball joint boots too or if the machine shop installed them wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 I decided tonight was going to be the night for the knock sensor. I went to Lowe's today and bought some new tools to attack it, and I failed like the Avengers' attack on Thanos. So I made an executive decision. On these cars, there is the knock sensor on the passenger side and a coolant drain plug in the exact same spot on the drivers side. Since the broken sensor thread on the passenger side is not going ANYWHERE, I rerouted the sensor wire and put the knock sensor on the driver side. All torqued down to 14 ft lbs. With that solved, we are still waiting for the new radiator and mounts. Also waiting to hear back what the deal is with the upper ball joint boots. I hope PST sends or at least lets me buy just new boots. If not, I will just pick up some Moog upper ball joints and put them in and be done with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Just heard back from PST, they are sending new upper ball joint boots. Great customer service. Looking forward to making some progress this weekend. I'd love to get this thing off to an alignment in the next 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeROC Posted June 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 The new radiator and Prothane mounts came tonight. The new radiator is a 3 row all aluminum, vs the stocker with plastic tanks. Since the new radiator is thicker, I had to trim the new mounts with a razor to fit. We got the reservoir out, cleaned, and reinstalled. Then installed the radiator. Everything is hooked up now except for one of the trans fluid lines. I need to cut and bend a new short piece of hardline for it to attach to the radiator. 42 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr 41 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr 43 by BuckeyeBOSS, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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